That’s great to know, I’m guessing mine doesn’t have the green one, it’s a first or second year production saw. I’ll have to pm you.
Green should be the old style and black the updated one.I'm not sure if green is the old one or new either. Found a bunch on eBay at a good price and bought them. 5, 6, 8...I'm not sure how many there are. All new
I think you're right. But I replaced mine with a green one and it quit leaking. So I'm good with itGreen should be the old style and black the updated one.
My PS-7300 was leaking, she had the green line.
The leak was caused by the line not pressing sufficiently against the pump.
She doesn't leak no more since I replaced the line, she's always sitting on the shelf with full tanks.
I could be wrong though.
I'd have to check the pictures I took and PM's I had with Nate (fordf150).
I didn't want to imply that there is anything wrong with the green lines, apologies if it sounded like I did.I think you're right. But I replaced mine with a green one and it quit leaking. So I'm good with it
My guess is composition is the same, just the color difference to designated the updated hose. Most likely just a different size tolerance or molded a fuzz differentAnyone know what the difference is between the green and black hose?
Oil line may be different, but I like the improved black fuel line compared to the old green one. The fuel filter fits more snugly on the end and the line doesn’t seem to kink as easily between the tank and carb box. Fuel line install has to be one of the easiest of any saw. Tank off (which is easy compared to a 046 or 372), then feed the line through the hole from inside the tank, pull it through. As you are installing the tank, pull it through carb box hole. Done. View attachment 138821View attachment 138822
Green hoses are proof that aliens exist.Ya'll quit playin' with your hoses...
Mason. Was there no free play on the trigger at all ?Had a heck of a time figuring out why the 7900 wasn’t returning to idle, made setting the jets harder than usual (kind of like a worn out clutch would do). I first replaced the throttle cable with a new one and inspected the entire trigger assembly, worked a little better. However I could tell it still wasn’t quite right. I did some further investigation and discovered the throttle cable holder on the carb was cut too long on the seat. Which held the cable off the idle screw just enough to f with the settings. I took a small drill bit and razor and removed just enough material from the seat (it wasn’t easy, hard to get at and remove too much and you won’t get full throttle). Problem solved.View attachment 139277Screwdriver is pointed at the part I had to modify. View attachment 139279 These are the tools I used. A small dremel burr would work too.
No, saw is extremely low hour. Most likely a defective throttle cable holder or sheath cut incorrect length on the cable I’m guessing.Mason. Was there no free play on the trigger at all ?
Think it could very well have been the cable shroud. I had a cable shroud that seemed a tiny bit long on a saw once ....shortening a tiny bit solved the lack of free play .No, saw is extremely low hour. Most likely a defective throttle cable holder or sheath cut incorrect length on the cable I’m guessing.
This definitely isn’t the first saw I had to play around with the throttle cable setup. Throttle wires as well I had to bend to optimum length. Not too difficult, but it can drive ya nuts if you don’t know what to look for.Think it could very well have been the cable shroud. I had a cable shroud that seemed a tiny bit long on a saw once ....shortening a tiny bit solved the lack of free play .
FYI to run a 8-9 pin on these the dust flap in clutch cover needs modified to clear the chain. At least on mine it did. Easy to do and doesn’t affect the functionality. I think this may only be on the early saws. Maybe they’ve changed it on later ones?