16” bar on a 461. Tryin to do a danish pie. Doh, I undercut the wedge.

Hell I even do a little dance around the elm.

I milled the elm aftwards
Edit, I will have to upload again, for some reason it ended short (missed the leaver fell)
What are those..red nikey high tops? j/k. You look like a pretty tall guy. South England?
I realize that you had some leeway with the aim on this tree but get in the habit of 'leveling blind' and then aiming from behind the saw. In all my experience, the one 'thing' that holds us back the most is us relying on our eye sight when we should be using our sense of feel. This took me years and year to figure out there is a better way. That's the Holy Grail of Timber Falling right there. That's Key.
If you use the same saw then this should be easy to memorise the level feel in almost any position. Different bar does not real matter as it's not about the weight so much but feel of the grips in the proper position as well memory feeling of the body position. I use a saw with wrap handle and it doesn't have the same ballance from one side to the next but it doesn't interfere with 'leveling blind' at all.
You don't have to be cutting trees to practise that.
It doesn't take very long to dial it in either.
Just shut your eyes and open them. Get your main position dialed in and then dial in another. You will be able to go to every position in practise from standing to taking a knee to full extension ect.
I didn't even realize I practise. It's just what I do when I pick up saws. I have a very vivid imagination. I once though I was a Timber Faller you know.
If I have to reach out and set my dogs first then I have to use my eyes. All the big tree when falling from the right side of tree , I can set free hand on the fly. I don't put the dogs in the corner. I get a rough aim from off my right shoulder I wing it into the centre of tree as soon as I plant my feet.
I don't look, and I don't slow down. It's a very fast thing then I go to the dogs then finish off behind saw to set aim.
Now I pull the saw out real fast in the level and aim position established from the flat cut. Nothing moves. Feet, wrist elbows, shoulders all stay locked. It's just a lateral sway. So I'll set my angle width half the distance of my depth on a Humboldt. I may have to chase my cuts back a bit and reset aim. When I am in my zone, I can go 40 or 50 good sized trees before I miss a set and have to reset. 100 - 150 sets 100% by feel.
On large trees from the left side I still set freehand. Although sometimes it's convenient on your approach to swing in and set but because your left arm front handle is on the outside then it has you facing slightly in to the tree with only neck movement so its a little hard to get a rough aim. So I end up starting behind site line right hand forward.
Get right behind the sight lines and tight up to the tree. Keep in consideration the distance from the sight line to the centre of the tree. If it happens to be 1/2 a metre. (20") on a straight tree. Then tree top is always that distance either left or right of your sight mark.
I'll quote you again and finish this.
I will tell you how to knock the undercut out from one side using the sense of feel.
See if you can figure it out in the mean time. keep in mine the bar length on the side you start of the undercut apex is true flat.
Anyway, If I can do all this I speak off then you guys can do all this also.
BTW, the tree tipping pry you used by lifting and not pushing down? I have only seen then designed to work the other way?
It worked.