coil gap not even

[5155]

Husq 55

If the coil gap is not even, can this cause hard to pull start condition?

 

[MG porting]

It could. Does it have more gap at the bottom of the coil?

 

[5155]

It was tighter at bottom. I adjusted it with business card, no change.
On third recoil.
installed decomp.
checked/changed plug.
Visual through ex port looks good.
Progressively harder to start since I bought it used.

Anything else to try before check piston quench and tear down?
Would wrong ig timing cause hard start/crank?

 

[5155]

It ran no different than my others, when/if I could get it fired.

 

[Leerod83]

Flywheel key?

 

[5155]

That's next to see.
Got to get away from it for now.
Think I have more time chasing it than running it.

With plug removed it spins fine.

 

[MG porting]

So is it just hard to pole over? And possibly a week coil or carb may need to be rebuilt. It's always fun trouble shooting that's why I have gray hair now but you'll get it. Lol

 

[huskihl]

Turn the switch off and pull it over. That will ID if it’s in the ignition system

 

[AVB]

Just lurking here but what are referring to as "ID"? Not familiar with that term.

 

[Stump Shot]

Just lurking here but what are referring to as "ID"? Not familiar with that term.

IDentify

 

[AVB]

Boy that one got me. OH well still learned that I do still have problem with the simplest of terms when abbr'ed. I try not to read too much into posts as that used to get me in trouble. I go back to lurking after I wade out to mailbox, wish it save some the rain for late Summer.

 

[jasper89]

If it spins fine without the plug in, and there is a problem when the spark plug is in, could the plug be too long and hit the top of the piston? Just a wild shot.
Or maybe too much timing advance?

 

[MG porting]

If it spins fine without the plug in, and there is a problem when the spark plug is in, could the plug be too long and hit the top of the piston? Just a wild shot.
Or maybe too much timing advance?

If the plug is hitting the piston then there should be witness marks on the piston and if the timing has been advanced it will normally want to bite back at you and pop back taking the recoil handle from you if you don't have a strong grip but normally they will start without having to pull on them to many times.

 

[AVB]

Can even be a bad recoil starter. I have seen old Homelites where the recoils would bind under compression loads.

 

[5155]

MG that's chrome not grey.
Kevin, great tip, no change.
AVB, I never took short hand either,
that was for girls.
It does look like the plug leaves a mark on piston,
maybe that's normal, Plug gap not smashed.
I had multiple starters on it, hate to parts out another saw but could
just to try.

Didn't check key yet, no clean good rope and no impact here.
I guess that's next.

Piston quench seems .019 to .022 according to my HF calipers.
Saw was bought used as 55 CP.
I used single strand .045 solder.

I'll mess around more tomorrow, rain day,
had plenty enough today.

Youns have been great thanks.

 

[MG porting]

MG that's chrome not grey.
Kevin, great tip, no change.
AVB, I never took short hand either,
that was for girls.
It does look like the plug leaves a mark on piston,
maybe that's normal, Plug gap not smashed.
I had multiple starters on it, hate to parts out another saw but could
just to try.

Didn't check key yet, no clean good rope and no impact here.
I guess that's next.

Piston quench seems .019 to .022 according to my HF calipers.
Saw was bought used as 55 CP.
I used single strand .045 solder.

I'll mess around more tomorrow, rain day,
had plenty enough today.

Youns have been great thanks.

Check the top of the piston closely again you might need to pop the cylinder and make some room for the plug but never the less make sure it's got the right plug to start with squish is fine at .19 I wouldn't go much tighter than that if it's a work saw someone might have taken the base gasket out or musheind the base of the cylinder if indeed you're squish is .19.

 

[5155]

I thought of the plug depth. New ones from internet are same as the one was in it but that means nothing. I'll go look around.
It has a base gasket, appears old.

Snap bang compression is great I like it too. Not so much when it pops the decomp, while working big blow downs in a swamp, while balanced on the end of,,, lol.

 

[MG porting]

I thought of the plug depth. New ones from internet are same as the one was in it but that means nothing. I'll go look around.
It has a base gasket, appears old.

Snap bang compression is great I like it too. Not so much when it pops the decomp, while working big blow downs in a swamp, while balanced on the end of,,, lol.

Yes and normally the blow off valve pops right when there ready to fire. Let us know what you find out with the flywheel key if someone has messed with it.

 

[5155]

The key was not square edged like I;m used to seeing but it was not loose either. I held the FW away from advanced and tightened it. That might have helped, saw not together yet.

I might ride to a shop tomorrow and ask about shorter spark plug and thicker base gasket. Plugs I've tried are
rcj7y and l7t.

Any tips for a thicker gasket?
Bar oil getting into case? How would I know?

I don't have enough starters to keep running it as is.
Tried three, don't think that's a problem.

Signed, startssawlikeagirl lol

 

[MG porting]

If you have a case leek and bar oil is getting in the crank case drain the oil out run the saw just to clear it the crank case side of it then let it sit for a couple hours then restart the saw if it's way easier to pull over then you know you'll have to split the case or drain the oil tank and leave the cap off and presser vac test the saw if you have the tool to do so. And yes if bar oil is leaking in the crank case side it will definitely be tuff to pole over and will puff a hole lot of white smoke.