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Burrs is a given, most (myself included especially in the middle of dropping a tree) just pop the chain back on and piss rev it. I’m glad I noticed this. Sucked cuz that was my felling chain. My bucking chain was real aggressive because I had been bucking semi hollow rotten trees, so I dropped the rakers to keep it from screaming (ported 2188 36” skip). Bucking chain did not like boring and felling a solid oak. Reminds me though an Aussie on fb taught me a trick to tame kick while boring…once the bore is started, put a side load or twist on the saw/bar to create some damping friction. Works pretty well.Checking the chain after a chain throw for burrs on the drive links is SOP, dude.
Are you square grinding or filing? You can assist the feed rate of the chain in different woods by increasing or decreasing the backslope of the top plate.Burrs is a given, most (myself included especially in the middle of dropping a tree) just pop the chain back on and piss rev it. I’m glad I noticed this. Sucked cuz that was my felling chain. My bucking chain was real aggressive because I had been bucking semi hollow rotten trees, so I dropped the rakers to keep it from screaming (ported 2188 36” skip). Bucking chain did not like boring and felling a solid oak. Reminds me though an Aussie on fb taught me a trick to tame kick while boring…once the bore is started, put a side load or twist on the saw/bar to create some damping friction. Works pretty well.
Round. I have some square chains by others and an ATOP I have only used once. I’d like to go square as I think it can be faster with less grabbiness. The atop angles are racy and delicate.Are you square grinding or filing? You can assist the feed rate of the chain in different woods by increasing or decreasing the backslope of the top plate.
If the wood is being that grabby, I would definitely change your top plate angle. The chain will rock less and you'll run less risk of breaking a tie strap or drive link.I spose I could have filed that chain with the file higher or used a 1/4”
Usually takes me a pair of pliers and/or metal cutters to mess up a tie strap/rivet like that!
For the stuff he is cutting he should consider a cutoff saw or water jetting it!If the wood is being that grabby, I would definitely change your top plate angle. The chain will rock less and you'll run less risk of breaking a tie strap or drive link.
You mean the angle inside the hook or are you referring to heel clipping which is supposed to smooth boring?Are you square grinding or filing? You can assist the feed rate of the chain in different woods by increasing or decreasing the backslope of the top plate.
Put it on loose and piss rev itA tree service manager gave me a chain loop last spring for sharpening that had been derailed. He said, "It's almost a new chain. Can we save it?" I studied the loop and said, "Possibly. It's a mess. These burrs are really bad."
Almost half the drive links were burred from the derailment. My getting rid of those burrs so that the chain could be used smoothly again took more time and effort to do than sharpening or making a new chain loop combined. Was the salvation worth it? Not in my book.
Yes, if its not too bad. However, that does wear away the bar rail inners faster and may lead to chippingPut it on loose and piss rev it