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Check the ring pins on AM pistons!

huskyboy

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I also try to use oem circlips if possible if I use a non oem piston. However the hyway 353 piston I got, you couldn’t use the oem circlips because they were too small/thin. The hyway circlips were thicker and much stiffer. Would have popped the oem clips out in no time. Good thing I checked.
 

legdelimber

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Regarding the original piston & ring pin hole:
I think I'd want to get a small burr in there and clean out the potentially flaky spots where more metal may have some fracturing.
Unfortunately.... this would include what's still keeping the pin from escaping inwards. Bummer!
I'd also take a scrape at or burr to that mold parting line.
The one area with the voids, looks like it's got some iffy stuff too.
 

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MG porting

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Regarding the original piston & ring pin hole:
I think I'd want to get a small burr in there and clean out the potentially flaky spots where more metal may have some fracturing.
Unfortunately.... this would include what's still keeping the pin from escaping inwards. Bummer!
I'd also take a scrape at or burr to that mold parting line.
The one area with the voids, looks like it's got some iffy stuff too.
You need to just turn that piston into a paper wait and get a better piston there cheap on price for good one
 

Stump Shot

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Well folks, received the Golf 2100 piston today and I can't see any reason not to use it. Not the prettiest casting in the world and there is some flash in the windows that can stand to be removed, otherwise the machining looks good and the ring locating pins are like they are supposed to be. I am going to however hedge my bets with a different set of rings and circlips. So plan 2-A it is.
Thanks though guys for the other options out there, I did learn a thing or two along the way.

IMG_20190129_131026889.jpg
 

Stump Shot

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The lack of decent pistons for a 2100 is why I chose to machine the cylinder for a 394/5 piston.

Seeing that the saw receiving the piston is not going to be a highly modified saw, gives me less worry. The owner doesn't want a lot of modifications, so I have to honor his wishes.
I will however be keeping this thought in the back of the tool box in my mind so to say for when the next opportunity presents itself.
If it passes the Jimmy drop test I think it will go in. Otherwise the VEC is out of stock and an Espian would have to be ordered from the Greek.
 

srcarr52

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Seeing that the saw receiving the piston is not going to be a highly modified saw, gives me less worry. The owner doesn't want a lot of modifications, so I have to honor his wishes.
I will however be keeping this thought in the back of the tool box in my mind so to say for when the next opportunity presents itself.
If it passes the Jimmy drop test I think it will go in. Otherwise the VEC is out of stock and an Espian would have to be ordered from the Greek.

Episan pistons are very nice quality.
 

smokey7

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I've uses 2golf piston and both are still running. 1 of them is in a very nodded high comp high rpm saw. The other is a stock rebuild. One thing I've noticed is pin to crown is shorter and skirt width is a tiny bit narrower. The pin to crown worked out well since I turned too much off the base on the jug anyways so it helped my squish get safe. The width was only .020 difference but if you were already almost free porting you would be in trouble with a golf. Vec and espian have always been very nice.
 

redline4

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@Stump Shot for what it's worth, when I did my J-red 630, the only thing I could get at the time was a Golf.
It looked decent. I know I used a Caber. I honestly dont recall what I used for clips, and its too cold to run out and check my notes.
Been running strong since July.

20180806_190111.jpg
 

CR888

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I'd be mixing up some JB-weld & give it a go. Prepared well it may last a while. I suppose it depends on the saw its going into, but that JB is pretty strong stuff.
 
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