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slackinoff

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Anybody think this will work? I found a spun bearing in the 170 I bought for cheap saw challenge 2023. It’s just barely spun, I almost missed it. Cylinder looks great otherwise. I’m guessing whoever used it heard it and shut it down immediately.

Would it hurt to add some anaerobic sealant in the bearing pocket for reassembly?


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Ford3000

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Anybody think this will work? I found a spun bearing in the 170 I bought for cheap saw challenge 2023. It’s just barely spun, I almost missed it. Cylinder looks great otherwise. I’m guessing whoever used it heard it and shut it down immediately.

Would it hurt to add some anaerobic sealant in the bearing pocket for reassembly?


View attachment 361111
Did you punch up the cap too, I would have went for locktite only,
so to keep the bearing centralized, there is not much sealing the pressure and vac
so being off center could cause trouble there, as well as being off square to the cylinder.
 
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slackinoff

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@Ford3000 - Yes I did both sides. I'm not going to fret over it if it does not work. I will just grab an aftermarket.
 

Ford3000

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@Ford3000 - Yes I did both sides. I'm not going to fret over it if it does not work. I will just grab an aftermarket.
One of the easiest saws to get AM parts for too, hope it all works to plan.
Will the MS180 engine fit in that frame.
 

slackinoff

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@Ford3000 - yes the 180 goes right in, but the rules only allow for 37mm 170 cylinder.
I am not going to go crazy with this thing, I don't think. I just want have something to run. With that said..... I was test fitting some tillotson carbs from the 61, 272, and 288 on it last night....lol.
 

slackinoff

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How hard is it to remove with that type of loctite? I might be going back in for porting changes after this first round.
 

timg

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Not a problem to remove. I would use #680 Loctite. Better gap fill with your stake punch marks as you are now going to need a gap fill bearing mount loctite now. Just a suggestion and not going against what Duce recommended.
 
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