chaun breaker and spinner???

[Brian Carlson]

Well guys gonna try and buy me a breaker and spinner in the next two weeks. My question is what is a good setup for the money. Will just be used every now and then for my odd ball setups. 3/8 to 404 mainly. Just curious what your thoughts and experiences are???

 

[jake wells]

what is a chaun?

 

[AVB]

what is a chaun?

It is typo. It should been chain. if you want the alternate meanings of the actual work Google it.

As for the chain break and spinner I using the Woodland Pro setup but there are a few combo units that probably work fine for low volume that is about a half the price.

 

[Philbert]

I bought this one, after seeing that it was the same one they used in their shop:

https://www.baileysonline.com/Chain...landPro-Chain-Breaker-Spinner-Combination.axd

There may be cheaper ones. But make sure that you can get parts (e.g. punches and spinning anvils) - may not be available with some sold on eBay, HarborFreight, etc.

Philbert

 

[Brian Carlson]

what is a chaun?

It's called fat fingers/auto correct and small keys lol

 

[Brian Carlson]

I bought this one, after seeing that it was the same one they used in their shop:

https://www.baileysonline.com/Chain...landPro-Chain-Breaker-Spinner-Combination.axd

There may be cheaper ones. But make sure that you can get parts (e.g. punches and spinning anvils) - may not be available with some sold on eBay, HarborFreight, etc.

Philbert

I was looking at that one too. There is one on eBay that looks just like it with 100' Chain. Says it's Carlton brand. At least it says. Chain is laser but like you said I worry about getting parts. Does it work well for you???

 

[jake wells]

It's called fat fingers/auto correct and small keys lol

chaun beaker and spinnerds ermehgerd lol.

 

[Philbert]

It's called fat fingers/auto correct and small keys lol

(I thought it was Cajun spelling . . . .)

Does it work well for you???

Posted a lot about it in this thread on 'another site' - you will see some other folks comments and recommendations there as well:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/baileys-chain-breaker-and-spinner.144859/

Make sure that whatever set you buy also has all of the pieces for all the sizes / pitches of chain (you may want to do some other sizes later on).

A spinner / breaker pays for itself quickly in terms of repairing damaged loops, and if you have the ability to scrounge used loops from others, aside from any savings if you use enough chain to buy by the 100' roll.

Philbert

 

[CR888]

Like Philbert says, make sure you can get vital parts like replacement punches. I bought a set and got two spare punches with it for down the road. I actually bent the original punch the first time I used it, but although its a little bent it still works so I have not swapped it out yet. These tools get quite a lot of force put through them so I'd advise you get the best quality you can afford. Italy seems to make decent ones. Also the adjustable anvils work pretty well and are worth the $5-10 on eBay.

 

[Philbert]

There is one on eBay that looks just like it with 100' Chain. Says it's Carlton brand.

The one I found on eBay, searching for 'Carlton', looks like an Oregon / Tecomec clone. Could be a good choice too, if the parts are interchangeable with the Oregon models (might want to confirm). You can also find those on eBay without the chain - not a real cost savings in that offer if you price the chain separately.

Philbert

 

[CR888]

Another idea is if you get a decent clone you could get OEM punches to makes it tougher. The eBay market is flooded with cheap options nowadays where as a few years ago the non OEM options were not near as great.

 

[Brian Carlson]

Another idea is if you get a decent clone you could get OEM punches to makes it tougher. The eBay market is flooded with cheap options nowadays where as a few years ago the non OEM options were not near as great.

Are the clones thew two piece setups or the all in one jobs.

 

[Carhartt]

I have an older Stihl breaker and Oregon spinner. If you don't have a lot of room Id suggest the 2 in 1 model. I mounted mine to a 2x4 and then clamp to the bench when I need it. They do take up space. I think Oregon still makes the 2 in 1 combo. I wouldn't be afraid of any of the name brand tools. Oregon, Stihl, Tecomec etc. I am sure you can get by with a"kungfuy" tool.

 

[Carhartt]

Here is another piece of advice. I can order premade Oregon chain loops cheaper than I can make a chain off a 100 ft roll. That's for a person that can wait. The convenience of the 100 ft roll is you can make whatever you or a customer needs at any given moment. They are also a handy tool for repairs. I find it works best if I grind one side of the rivet off for punching. If I don't I sometimes end up bending the drive link. Please don't think I am a professional chain maker.

 

[Philbert]

You shouldn't half to grind off one end of the rivet if you are using a breaker.

On some smaller chain, like 3/8 low profile, I will sometimes push one rivet partway through, then punch the second rivet, then come back and finish the first. This reduces the chance of me bending the tie strap (if I plan to reuse it - I don't reuse pre-sets).

The anvil should support the drive link and prevent it from getting bent or damaged.

Philbert

 

[Brian Carlson]

Well I finally pulled the trigger on buying a setup. Bought the Oregon two piece system. It came packaged really well. Each piece cost about $89. I mounted it on my bench and tried it out on some stihl .325 that a friend needed shortened. I took my time and it went well. It's going to take a little while before I am quick at it but it will come with practice. I Bought the more expensive set just because I wanted ease of getting parts and wanted a trusted setup. Below are some pictures. My robot head ended up being a little bigger than the factory ones but it's solid in the link and still moves freely.

 

[Philbert]

Looks good!

As long as the rivet head lays smooth against the tie strap, and there are no cracks, it looks professional to me.

As, as you note, if the links move freely, and have no more side-to-side wiggle than the rest of the chain, it should work as good as OEM.

Philbert

 

[Brian Carlson]

The hardest part was punching out rivots. Has to be placed in the anvil just right or chance bending a strap. I am quite pleased. Just have to save up and get me some chain spools lol