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Flint Mitch

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Sorry if this is a dumb question...

Can someone explain to me what semi skip and full skip chain is and what their purpose is. I just run Stihl branded semi and full chisel but am always interested in trying something new

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T.Roller

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Simply put full skip is for a saw that cannot pull your full comp chain good. Less cutters equal less strain on your saw.
 

Flint Mitch

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I'm thinking of adding a 24" bar to my Makita 6421 just for fu. Maybe these chain options might be worth looking into?

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Dingeryote

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Skip on a 24' makes sense, on less than a 70cc saw. Heck, I run it on a 372/24"most times.

Even if the saw can pull full comp, it's fewer teeth to touch up in dirty wood.
On a more marginal saw that would be getting touchy bucking larger stems, it's less strain on the saw.
 

Philbert

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See illustration in Redfin's post above.

Standard ('full comp') chain has a Right cutter, a space, a Left cutter, a space, etc.
Skip chain has a Right cutter, 2 spaces, a Left cutter, 2 spaces, etc.
Semi-skip chain is for people who can't make up their minds.

A few reasons for skip chain:
- On long bars (greater than, say 24") there is more space between cutters to carry the wood chips. If you can't clear the wood chips, the chain will not cut.
- On large diameter logs you have fewer teeth in the cut at any one time, so there is less drag that the saw's motor has to overcome.
- On some smaller, cheap saws, they put on long bars to make them look more powerful than they are, so they use skip chain to let the small motor pull the long bar.
- Fewer teeth to sharpen for the same length bar.

This is somewhat analogous to blades for circular saws or table saws - a 10 inch blade on a table saw with 60 teeth will cut smoother; a 10 inch blade with 24 teeth and deep gullets will cut faster, but rougher.
Philbert
 

amberg

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See illustration in Redfin's post above.

Standard ('full comp') chain has a Right cutter, a space, a Left cutter, a space, etc.
Skip chain has a Right cutter, 2 spaces, a Left cutter, 2 spaces, etc.
Semi-skip chain is for people who can't make up their minds.

A few reasons for skip chain:
- On long bars (greater than, say 24") there is more space between cutters to carry the wood chips. If you can't clear the wood chips, the chain will not cut.
- On large diameter logs you have fewer teeth in the cut at any one time, so there is less drag that the saw's motor has to overcome.
- On some smaller, cheap saws, they put on long bars to make them look more powerful than they are, so they use skip chain to let the small motor pull the long bar.
- Fewer teeth to sharpen for the same length bar.

This is somewhat analogous to blades for circular saws or table saws - a 10 inch blade on a table saw with 60 teeth will cut smoother; a 10 inch blade with 24 teeth and deep gullets will cut faster, but rougher.
Philbert

Amen!
 

Jon1212

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See illustration in Redfin's post above.

Standard ('full comp') chain has a Right cutter, a space, a Left cutter, a space, etc.
Skip chain has a Right cutter, 2 spaces, a Left cutter, 2 spaces, etc.
Semi-skip chain is for people who can't make up their minds.

A few reasons for skip chain:
- On long bars (greater than, say 24") there is more space between cutters to carry the wood chips. If you can't clear the wood chips, the chain will not cut.
- On large diameter logs you have fewer teeth in the cut at any one time, so there is less drag that the saw's motor has to overcome.
- On some smaller, cheap saws, they put on long bars to make them look more powerful than they are, so they use skip chain to let the small motor pull the long bar.
- Fewer teeth to sharpen for the same length bar.

This is somewhat analogous to blades for circular saws or table saws - a 10 inch blade on a table saw with 60 teeth will cut smoother; a 10 inch blade with 24 teeth and deep gullets will cut faster, but rougher.
Philbert

REPPED!

For you use of analogous.
 

Locust Cutter

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Unless you really want to, I'd just stick with full-comp for the 24" bar. It will have enough power to pull it, plus you'll still be able to limb the smaller branches and suckers, w/o the chain getting grabby. This gets even worse if/when your rakers are lowered.
 

cobey

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Unless you really want to, I'd just stick with full-comp for the 24" bar. It will have enough power to pull it, plus you'll still be able to limb the smaller branches and suckers, w/o the chain getting grabby. This gets even worse if/when your rakers are lowered.

You can limb with a 84 driver skip,
Angles and rakers are really important
And keeping the r's up helps
A lot. Higher rakers very sharp with
Good angles
A nice smooth square tooth = happy ness :) :) ;)
 

cobey

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You can limb with a 84 driver skip,
Angles and rakers are really important
And keeping the r's up helps
A lot. Higher rakers very sharp with
Good angles
A nice smooth square tooth = happy ness :) :) ;)

Since I got out the hospital
I have been having trouble
Running longet bars,
My elbow hasn't healed yèt.
A 16" has been my friend
 

cobey

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I like semi skip. It doesn't get near as grabby as skip on the shorter bars.
I haven't ever run semi skip, Mike asked me about some, but I never have found
Any good deals on it.
So far I use skip on any modern saw,
The turns good rpm, with a 24" or longer bar. 20 and shorter I Ushally sell full comp. Vintage saws are pretty sorry
With skip, so if you have a torquey
Saw running low rpm I have found
You need all the teeth you can get.
Just my experience.
 

cobey

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Skip seems less forgiving if you mess up teeth and I always take extra loop when
I go out
 
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