Case Assembly Questions

[MustangMike]

I'm going to be putting that 034 case back together soon (it will become an 036) but it is my first time doing this, so even though I think I got an understanding of it, I would appreciate it if more knowledgeable people entertained my questions, THANKS:

After cleaning everything, I start with freezing the crank and heating the bearings. I have the two bearings labeled regarding which side is which.

1) Does the open end of the bearing always face away from the center?

2) Do you put it on as tight as it will go, or purposely leave about 1/16" of space?

3) Do you lubricate the shaft?

With the case halves, I will heat the bearing area before installing it (with the heat gun).

4) Do you use a dry gasket, or do you put sealant on them?

5) Do you clean the gasket surface with brake cleaner?

That is it for now, may have more later, feel free to volunteer anything you think is useful. I always try to go cautiously when it is my first time. Thanks Again!

 

[Glock37]

I put the open end of bearing toward the mix charge to get oil quick

Seat the bearing all the way into case it should drop right in too case let sit without heat to equalize then able heat too case not bearing heat will transfer too inner race to insert crank all the way in
Clean both sides of case with cleaner and use a sealer 518 works great both sides
Let that side cool then do other bearing installed annd place other heated side with bearing installed on crank and installs screws alittle at a time untill tight then install pins then fully tighten screws and loosen crank by hitting one way or other untill free


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[MustangMike]

So you prefer to do bearings in the case first, then insert the crank. Any particular side you do first?

Just to clarify, I think the open end on the bearing goes toward the seal? I believe it is the clutch side that has an indented inner race.

Was very surprised that the flywheel side bearings from an 034 and 460 seem identical (except one was made in Japan, the other in France).

 

[Glock37]

Yes bearings in case then crank open end toward the crank case bearings donot have shields do they pics .


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[jacob j.]

I lightly run a wire brush in my die grinder along the case mating surfaces and then dress the mating surfaces with Yamabond, and apply the case gasket while it is still tacky.

Typically the open side of a bearing goes toward the crank, with the proprietary bearings having the "indented" side facing out since that side contains the oil seal. Stihl's service manuals indicate to place the bearings in the case halves first (as Mike mentions) which is how I do it. On some of the older saws like the McCullochs, it's indicated to place the bearings on the crankshaft first.

The flywheel side bearing on Stihl saws 034/036 through 044/046/460 are the same dimensions, so just about any 6202 bearing rated for C3 spec will work there.

 

[Glock37]

Plactic shield bearings one side more open then other side more open to the inside toward crank counter weights


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[Glock37]

If it has a oil pump that screws on install it to set bearing depth


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[Glock37]

Randy did a thread on this i believe on AS SEE IF YOU CAN FIND IT ITS VERY GOOD


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[Glock37]

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/case-bearing-installation.246892/


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[mdavlee]

Heat case halves. Room temperature bearings. Frozen bearings make condensation so I quit freezing them. Drop flywheel side in first. Then drop clutch side in. Put a heat gun on the case as soon as the bearing drops in the starter side. Put crank in. Heat gun on pto side and while it's warming up again put the gasket in. I use 518 or something similar to help hold the gasket along with the dowels. I use the oven at 350 for around a half hour and bearings will literally fall in.

 

[angelo c]

I'm going to be putting that 034 case back together soon (it will become an 036) but it is my first time doing this, so even though I think I got an understanding of it, I would appreciate it if more knowledgeable people entertained my questions, THANKS:

After cleaning everything, I start with freezing the crank and heating the bearings. I have the two bearings labeled regarding which side is which.

1) Does the open end of the bearing always face away from the center?

2) Do you put it on as tight as it will go, or purposely leave about 1/16" of space?

3) Do you lubricate the shaft?

With the case halves, I will heat the bearing area before installing it (with the heat gun).

4) Do you use a dry gasket, or do you put sealant on them?

5) Do you clean the gasket surface with brake cleaner?

That is it for now, may have more later, feel free to volunteer anything you think is useful. I always try to go cautiously when it is my first time. Thanks Again!

Mike,
Do you have/need the service manual ?
what tools do you have for the split/reassembly ?

question for the gang ?
absent of an old oiler as a depth guage is it easier to just flush to the crank side of the case as that seems more critical ?
(flywheel side is already depth set )

bearings are usually open to the lube IMO ???

 

[MustangMike]

As usual, Randy's build thread is very informative & useful, thanks for the reference.

However, the bearing is being installed with the "open" side facing out, as I thought.

Angelo, the only "special" tool I got to do this is my $8 HF heat gun, that so far has worked quite well. I also made my own case splitter from an old rototiller tine!

Will not forget to use the oil pump trick, but I don't have a spare one!

Will not get to this today, but soon.

Thanks everyone, I think I'm ready to give it a try! Glad I asked the questions, was not planning on putting the oil pump on first!

 

[MustangMike]

The whole order of operation as described by Randy, and only heating the case halves, should make things much easier.

The hard part is, I don't have a cleaner!

 

[junkman]

I personally do not coat a new gasket with sealer of any kind ,I put the bearings in the case first ,a socket works for a driver to tap them in ,(i only heat if they do not go in easy ),with the open side of the bearing inside the crank area so the fuel mix will oil them .If not putting a base gasket in i do use a sealer when going metal to metal .Jug to the case .

 

[jmssaws]

No need for sealer
I always start with the flywheel side so it lays flat while you put it together.

8$ heat gun is perfect.
No need to freeze anything
Heat the case and drop the bearing in then wait till the bearing heat soaks and install the crank.
It's a very simple process.

 

[tree monkey]

 

[tree monkey]

 

[WooHoo223]

I assume that was heated oil. Thats what I use to do with snowmobile crank bearings. My advice would be to heat the oil over an electric hot plate or similar, not throw the bearing in oil then set the oil container over coals to warm up. You will be buying new bearings when it goes up in flames.

 

[tree monkey]

it's a little 2 cop electric coffee pot , works good

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

Sometimes the halves don't line up prefect for the cylinder base so I've had to lightly bolt a jug down to make it true just before torquing the case bolts.