Burs

[logger450]

What is everybody using for burs? When I grind down the skirts on a 372 cylinder the bur fills up pretty fast. And also what burs would be good for porting?

 

[Deets066]

What is everybody using for burs? When I grind down the skirts on a 372 cylinder the bur fills up pretty fast. And also what burs would be good for porting?

Use a bit of oil on your burr, it won’t fill up as fast.

 

[AVB]

PLus there are different burrs/files for aluminum. For me most my work in ferrous metals so most are that type of work. Whenever I take of those rotary files to aluminum it clogs up fairly easy.

 

[legdelimber]

I've only been in a couple of cylinders over the last few years, but...
As my eyesight gets worse, I've been running the tool at a lower rpm to match.
Surprising how much difference it makes in the aluminum sticking.

Another thought is if you're getting into the hard coating.
You might keep a burr for skimming the plating off and then swap to one that hasn't been in the Nikasil, to finish the aluminum work.
Even just a couple of sweeps into it makes a noticeable difference in how the burr gums up.
Using the burr in a muffler for de-catting will dull them too.
Rust or any oxidized metal will dull them also.

 

[AVB]

That's what carbide version are for when dealing ferrous metal. I got the same carbide single cut rotary file that I start with back in 2006.

 

[huskihl]

Every one I’ve ever used plugs up. I have a little cup with some penetrating oil in it that I dunk into every few minutes kinda like Deets said.

 

[Canadian farm boy]

Every one I’ve ever used plugs up. I have a little cup with some penetrating oil in it that I dunk into every few minutes kinda like Deets said.

I do the same. Gotta keep those burrs cool. Seems once they get hot they plug up easier and go dull faster.

 

[Al Smith]

It's been several years since I've reworked a cylinder .Too many irons in the fire .When I did I had two or three Dremels loaded up with different burs .I found the best rougher was a rounded nose cone actually made for wood ,high speed steel .It would not load up .The finer cutter carbine burs would.Oil. WD -40 or Kool Tool for aluminum helped . Kool Tool is actually Tri Clora ethane with a degree of lubrication denatured so it wasn't a hazard to the respiratory system that cools by evaporation . I generally used WD-40 .

 

[Deets066]

2 Stroke oil and aluminum tap magic is what I use.

I don’t think it really matters what ya use, just about anything would help.

 

[AVB]

I think you will find rubbing alcohol works better with aluminum as lubricate. Sure makes tapping aluminum easier.

 

[Deets066]

I think you will find rubbing alcohol works better with aluminum as lubricate. Sure makes tapping aluminum easier.

Can’t say I’ve tried that

 

[huskihl]

I think you will find rubbing alcohol works better with aluminum as lubricate. Sure makes tapping aluminum easier.

I’ve never used that either, but I think evaporation would be an issue. I use 80 grit emery paper on a split mandrel for flattening and finish work, and I dunk it in the same cup of oil to keep the paper washed clean. Otherwise sandpaper loads up just like the burr. I’ve actually used thicker oil to try and keep it around longer and so that it doesn’t sling away so soon

 

[2stroke800]

They make carbide burs specifically for aluminum that dont load up. I have a couple and have never had an issue with them loading up.

 

[Deets066]

They make carbide burs specifically for aluminum that dont load up. I have a couple and have never had an issue with them loading up.

Pics

 

[2stroke800]

Aluminum burrs typically have full length flutes and the flutes are wider open than the “teeth” on a normal burr. This prevents them from loading up in softer materials.

 

[2stroke800]

The shop i get some of my welding supplies at sells the ones i got, and are either the traditional looking ones for steel, or the fluted type for aluminum. I have seen them at other places for sale also tho..

 

[logger450]

Aluminum burrs typically have full length flutes and the flutes are wider open than the “teeth” on a normal burr. This prevents them from loading up in softer materials.

Thanks for the pics. I will be looking for some

 

[2stroke800]

Burrs with this traditional type of tooth can obviously be used on anything, but are designed for harder metals and will load up with softer materials. These kind can be somewhat cleaned out with a good stainless steel wire brush, depending on how hot they get and how aggressively they were buried into the soft material when hot.

 

[Deets066]

Aluminum burrs typically have full length flutes and the flutes are wider open than the “teeth” on a normal burr. This prevents them from loading up in softer materials.

Alumihog, those are good for roughing. But not my choice for finish work. Too aggressive

 

[Wolverine]

I've bought from here and they seem to be very good quality to me.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/cincystore1978/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=