Boat fuel hook up

[I Know Something]

I got my first boat last year. It's a buddies. It sat under a tree here in Mn. for a number of years. 1979 Johnson. My problem. Get it on the lake, runs as it should. Get it all warmed up and it bogs, surges and repeatedly dies. So I'm going to start with the simplest things. Replaced all fuel lines. Tested and then promptly replaced primer bulb. UC cleaned carb. Cleaned out fuel tank and fuel pump. Did all that and it still continues. The only thing fuel related I haven't changed it the fuel line ends. Reason? Boat shop is quarinteen closed for at least another 3 weeks and I have absolutely no idea what they are. I just know they do "fit" but also not all the way and leave a gap. I'm assuming its getting air in and causing my problems. Please help identify or point me in the right direction.



Edit for clarity. The fuel tank and motor have same style. Fuel lines have their own.

 

[Agent Smith]

@WillG

You play with boats. Any recommendations?

 

[WillG]

Compression test. When it surges try choking it to see if it improves. If it does, you still have fuel system issues. If that tank was rusty I'd toss it and replace with a plastic tank. I'd replace fuel line, primer bulb and connectors as well.

Sent from my E6910 using Tapatalk

 

[Redfin]

Have you tried adjusting carb when its warm? It sounds like its lean.

 

[Mastermind]

@Stevetheboatguy

 

[birdmeter]

i had a problem gave @Stevetheboatguy a pm he helped me very much.

 

[Stevetheboatguy]

Post up or pm me pics of the engine with the hood off. And from all sides
I want to see a couple of thing's to help narrow this down for you.
1+ on the fuel tank if it looks suspect at all.
Steven

 

[I Know Something]

I miss stated above. The connection to the fuel tank is the only odd one. My bad. It also has a gap when its connected. Its the next thing I want to correct to eliminate the possibility of an air leak.

I have attempted to not only adjust the mix but also the idle as well. Neither are successful. Here is your pics.

 

[Stevetheboatguy]

Thats a '79 15. Not a 75. Very good thing.

Looks like someone changed the mag/stator plate. Still has the non resistant carb kit, that should get replaced. Missing a keeper on your recoil. Be careful to not yank your shoulder if it catches.



Edit: also has the wrong spark plugs. Should be a champion ql77jc4 think the ngk number is a bz7hs-10.

I'll pm you my cell.

Steven

 

[Mastermind]

Thats a '79 15. Not a 75. Very good thing.

Looks like someone changed the mag/stator plate. Still has the non resistant carb kit, that should get replaced. Missing a keeper on your recoil. Be careful to not yank your shoulder if it catches.



Edit: also has the wrong spark plugs. Should be a champion ql77jc4 think the ngk number is a bz7hs-10.

I'll pm you my cell.

Steven

Ladies and gentlemen......Steve. The. Boat. GUY !!!!!

 

[Stevetheboatguy]

Ladies and gentlemen......Steve. The. Boat. GUY !!!!!

Hey now. The id was the easy part. Getting him going 100% is going to be the challenge.


Steven

 

[I Know Something]

Thats a '79 15. Not a 75. Very good thing.

Looks like someone changed the mag/stator plate. Still has the non resistant carb kit, that should get replaced. Missing a keeper on your recoil. Be careful to not yank your shoulder if it catches.



Edit: also has the wrong spark plugs. Should be a champion ql77jc4 think the ngk number is a bz7hs-10.

I'll pm you my cell.

Steven

I'll geve ya a call tomorrow afternoon. At a cookout at my brother's now. Thank you.

 

[CR888]

Ladies and gentlemen......Steve. The. Boat. GUY !!!!!

He's good isn't he!

 

[legdelimber]

Been over 30 years since I had a reason to mess with an outboard.
There's a reason some people refer to boats as "a dry hole in the water that you throw money into"

Dealing with second hand boat stuff?
I'd start at the tank vent and its fuel cap (plus tank interior & its components) and go all the way to the carburetor.
Summarily toss and replace all fuel Lines.
Verify physical fitment and function of every danged thing in between.
...Including that primer bulb in the middle of the fuel line. yeah that "little bitty" crack matters.
Replace and clean everything in one go, before even trying to run it.
Otherwise stuff just seems to get around your repairs and leave you puzzled as to why things aren't working properly.
Pretty much the same methodology as dealing an unknown saw.

And most of all, ask someone who actually knows about boats. that's not me.
Thank you to folks like Mastermind facilitating and Stevetheboatguy for covering things.

 

[I Know Something]

Did that already. Except one thing. That 3 point/prong hook up to the fuel tank. The 2 point in the picture leaves a gap when its together. I'm looking to eliminate that next.

 

[legdelimber]

Well wishes with the boat project!
I rarely eat fish ( a little alcohol helps though).
But danged if finding a quiet little cove with just a wee bit of a breeze blowing, wouldn't be a nice anti-cooties distance idea.

 

[EchoRomeoCharlie]

I know there are some serious boat guys in here, so they probably have you covered, however, I had an OLD ranger boat for a few years. Hull was a 77, outboard was a 79 Johnson 70 horse.

I had a somewhat similar problem in that it would run on 2 cylinders in a seemingly random manner. At first it only happened when it was cold, after it warmed up it would run on all 3, then it was only when it was warm would it bog/surge/not get on plane. Then it was all the time, and sometimes it wouldn't start at all.

I did a BUNCH of diagnostics, bought the repair manual online, did all the mutli-meter tests they had, everything was looking good. Coils, box, everything checked out with a multi-meter. So it must be a fuel issue right? I replaced the entire fuel system(except the tank) and rebuilt the carbs, drained the entire 22 gallon fuel tank and replaced with new gas/oil.

Still had the same problems. Well, one day it would go between running on all 3 cylinders and on plane full power, to dropping a cylinder randomly. It was a hard cut, so at that point, I knew it was something electrical so I focused on that again. Did all the tests again, and while I was doing that I noticed that one of the grounds on the engine looked weird. So I took it apart and whatever coating they put on the terminals was between the block and the grounds. That can't be good. So I wen through and removed/cleaned/reinstalled all terminal connections I could find on that outboard.

Back in the water and she never had a problem again. Started up quicker and ran on all 3 cylinders the rest of the time I owned it. Absolutely fantastic outboard.

 

[I Know Something]

When it stops raining here, I'll give that a look at too. Thanks for the ideas everyone.

 

[legdelimber]

Some years ago, I spent a few months in Fla.
Worked for a metal fab shop that just did boat (it's a Motor Yacht, thank you") work.
Fancy levers, hinges and door latches kind of frippery.
First time around a salt water job and work.
But what amazed me was how rapidly the salt just ate s-word.

This was used on an exterior door.
I saw a residential (non marine) door knob used (temporally) with the intention of it lasting a couple of weeks while we handled a few things for the setting up job properly.
I was told that on about the 4th day, the crew had to drill out the lock cylinder to open the door.
I saw the remnants when the door came into our workshop.
Wow. just a few bits of the brass and any nickle/chrome plating and crusty bits of the carbon steel.

I then learned that they use the saltwater, ...daily..., (pumped from the ocean) to hose things down and then wipe things dry.
as for electrical things?
Oh yeah. whole new world of sacrificial anodes, worrying about propeller shaft bearings, etc.
Plugging into "shore power" almost always set off a range of testing and inspections by the Captain and crew.
You could cause serious money damage on the yachts if things were creating any sort of galvanic reaction.

The Contractor I was employed by, did most of our fabrication in the shop, but a good bit things simply had to be done "in the field".
("darn. I've cut it twice and it's still too short!")
The field was this place.
...an amazing little world for a "dry lander" to walk into on my first time out.
https://www.bizjournals.com/southfl...vebradford-marine-in-fort-lauderdale-and.html

Sheesh. all of this babble of memories flooding in, only because of EchoRomeoCharlie information about the wire connection issue.
Short version of it? Something on a boat always seems to be drifting into the non-functional zone.

 

[Bilge Rat]

Check all fuel line connections for air leaks. The bulbs go bad inside, check valves in them.
The fuel line connectors will leak/suck air.
Most have an O ring on them check those.
The inner liner in the fuel hose can come loose and collapse restricting flow.
Under load the fuel line is in a slight vaccuum and that collapses the liner causing anything from a bog to shutting down the motor. It will idle fine.
You can damage this liner on a new line, lube the jag before sliding on the line and don't overtighten any hose clamps. Full radius ty wraps work well.

NON ethanol fuel.

Boats?
In the yard is a boat with a Yamaha F150, Next door is a Susuki and a Sea Tow boat. Down the street is a lontime buddy with a few Merc 2.5s
Some of those are on drag boats.

Boats will test you.