Bendix Schintilla magneto repair (Remington & Mall)

[67L36Driver]

Problem is, the coils have gone shot in the past fifty years. The coating is flaking off and the secondary winding (.003" dia wire) is corroded and brittle.


The attachment for the plug wire jumps ship.



And, don't think you can just find the end and solder on the plug wire. It just brakes off when you try to tin it.

Here I'll show you how to fit a Wico coil from a Homelite XL-101, 102, 103, 76 or a Remington SL-9, 10, 14 or 16.

 

[67L36Driver]

Wico coil that works.



Notice the square outside and the 3/8" square hole in the center.

Start by removing the spring clips that hold the original coil w/pole. Strong SOBs so be careful or they will fly accross the shop.


Chuck it up in your bench vice and saw it in half with a hack saw.

 

[67L36Driver]

Clean up the pole with sandpaper and file the rivit flat on one end.


Test fit in the Wico coil. File and sand until it will slide in with moderate force.


The long lead goes to your Remy points and the short one to ground, preferably under a screw.

Bias the coil to the left when viewing the magneto plate from the front. You don't want the points lead tab grounding on the pole.



Add pigtails as necessary to reach the points and grounding location. I use the condenser clip screw to ground.

 

[WKEND LUMBERJAK]

Carl are the Wico coils still available new?

 

[67L36Driver]

Tie it up and slather on Liquid Tape.

This stuff.


You did keep track of where the plug lead goes, right?
It has to point to the right to exit in the proper place.

 

[67L36Driver]

More misc pics.

From the back side.


One I did. Almost got into the flywheel with my leads.

 

[67L36Driver]

There, all done. Throw it back together and check for spark.

Arn't those Bendix points a hoot. Keep careful track how they are assembled. They are easier to grind and polish the contact surfaces than Wico or Phelon points.

 

[67L36Driver]

Fire up that seven cube Remy and enjoy!

 

[67L36Driver]

Carl are the Wico coils still available new?

Yup. I have one bookmarked on Evilbay but the turd head wants thirty bux plus postage. Yikes!

I prefer to wait 'till the right Homie or Remy carcass comes along.

 

[Four Paws]

Excellent tech! I thoroughly enjoy seeing anything vintage revived and given a new lease on life.

 

[Mastermind]

Really nice thread.

I want to add a longer lead to a Poulan coil......how would you do that?

 

[67L36Driver]

Really nice thread.

I want to add a longer lead to a Poulan coil......how would you do that?

Lead extender from Ace Hardware.[emoji48]

 

[Mastermind]

 

[67L36Driver]

Wait, plug lead?

There is a trick I learned. Saves digging the old one out of the coil.

Something you don't want to do on a Homie 'C' type. I've wrecked a couple C5 coils.[emoji22]

 

[Mastermind]

I've figured out how to make a Poulan coil run on a Dolmar 7900. The lead is in a better location than the 272 coil. I can't figure a really good way to make the plug lead longer though.

 

[DrewUth]

I've figured out how to make a Poulan coil run on a Dolmar 7900. The lead is in a better location than the 272 coil. I can't figure a really good way to make the plug lead longer though.

NGK does sell a kit for splicing them, I've used them on bikes but it may be a titty bit bulky for use on a saw. If I was going to do it, I would expose about 1/4" of lead from each end of the lead, tin them, lay em side by side and solder them together, then fill the void with something like liquid tape or RTV or even 5 minute JB if you want it to be super tough. If you remember to slip some shrink tube over it before you solder them together, it'll even look pretty trick

 

[Mastermind]

I tried digging out the old lead and attaching a new one. That was a mess.......

 

[DrewUth]

Sorry if I misunderstood, I thought you were trying to splice two leads together into one long one. Rescuing a coil that has lost its' lead is a real pain for sure.

 

[Mastermind]

The Dolmar 7900 is RPM limited. I'm looking to fit a coil that isn't.

 

[67L36Driver]

NGK does sell a kit for splicing them, I've used them on bikes but it may be a titty bit bulky for use on a saw. If I was going to do it, I would expose about 1/4" of lead from each end of the lead, tin them, lay em side by side and solder them together, then fill the void with something like liquid tape or RTV or even 5 minute JB if you want it to be super tough. If you remember to slip some shrink tube over it before you solder them together, it'll even look pretty trick

Sort of what I've done. Used a 1/4" long butt splice, lapped the wire core ends, filled the void with the above Liquid tape and slipped a length of 1/4" fuel hose over it with two or three tiny zip ties. Slit the hose.

Plan ahead so the splice has plenty of clearence.

I used to have pics on my phone but they got deleted. Running out of storage.