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Bars too big for a saw

davidwyby

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Recent experiences influence...

After cutting some dry hard euc I don’t want to sharpen any more teeth than I have to.

And then after digging into a tangled filthy dirty pile of salt cedar, I don’t want more bar sticking out the other side into more dirt or dirty wood, etc.

...and after burying 28” in hard yellow pine with the 2166 back to back to rippin that euc with 20” on Randy’s 6100, I prefer the mo powa feel...so current plan is match the bar to the wood and run the bar with plenty of engine for that length.

Another idea I had, maybe a bit out of the box. What if to reduce drag on a full comp chain one didn’t file the depth gauges on every other cutter after a few sharpenings?
 

merc_man

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Is 24 inch too big for a 50 cc saw lol.
d71c37a8e018750450c7827556253d71.jpg


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Thumper88

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I like having enough bar that I don’t have to bend like crazy limbing, but I do prefer matching the bar to the wood when felling and bucking. Makes it easier to watch the bar tip and not end up in the dirt. That said I run a 14” on my climbing saw, 18” on my MS250 for limbing and chunking as needed. I have a 20”, a 28” and a 34” setup for my 462 as needed. The 34 wears full skip and only comes out for big sticks. Before I sold my 880 I ran a 41” on it for stumping and big stuff, but that saws to heavy and unwieldy to use unless absolutely needed.
 

Wilhelm

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. . .
Another idea I had, maybe a bit out of the box. What if to reduce drag on a full comp chain one didn’t file the depth gauges on every other cutter after a few sharpenings?
Rather stay conservative on all rakers which will generate thinner chips but help keep chain speed up.
 

Wilhelm

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Sometimes it's good to live life on the wild side. Try different things. Take an extra swipe off rakers. Cut fasta. Lol
If the saw will handle it , sure!
I have ran very aggressive chains on my PS-7900 with just an 20" B&C. ;)
 
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