Bars too big for a saw

[pwheel]

To the OP: STIHL recommends #3624 (33 RS3-72) OILOMATIC® Saw Chain and 20” 3003 008 8921 Ematic™ guide bar for an MS362. Otherwise, as you can tell, there will be no more consensus on bar length on this site than if you'd asked which oil ratio is best.

 

[Benwa]

I see people with saws in their sig that sport bars that are, generally, considered too large for a saw. If it's too large, then why do they use it? I mean, if they list it as such, it must work! For instance, I've got a 362 and it seems the consensus of opinion is that a 28 inch bar is too big... too long and the oiler is no match. Do they just use the large bar occasionally and it works "ok" but not great? Just wondering what they get out of it. I guess they just take their time and cut slower?

Ultimately, the short answer, is that some do it out of practical need and some simply do it for looks.

I'd say, if the saw is stock with an oversized bar, then they're using it for the extra reach and the majority of the time they aren't cutting wood with the bar buried. There are many practical benefits to longer bars on lighter saws. Not bending over when bucking logs on the ground. When bucking logs that are unstable, it provides extra reach and/or distance between you and the log in case something shifts. When falling a tree I'd much rather not be "under bar'd." Your body is physically much further away from the bar if kickback should occur. Some do it just to look "cool" and to say they can....... and that's fine too..... I personally wouldn't "over bar" a stock saw for regular, everyday, bar length cutting and tax the engine, oiler, etc. Where I'm at the wood is generally larger than not. I'd much rather run a light saw with longer than recommended bar length. Example: I'd much rather run a ported 14lb 70cc saw that will pull a 32" bar even though it may not be recommended, than run a stock 80+cc saw that weighs 17lbs and IS recommended to pull a 32" bar. Then I can turn around and use same smaller cc lighter saw for limbing. All the while with less strain on my back from a lighter saw and being able to stand up dang near straight when doing it. It's all about light weight long reach to me. Some oilers will keep up, some won't and need to be modified. With the right modifications, techniques, and common sense many saws will pull a longer bar than recommended. A properly filed, sharp chain, with the rakers properly indexed will make all the difference when running longer bars on stock saws....... or any for that matter.

 

[Dub11]

32" 2159 FTW!!!

 

[RI Chevy]

There you go @Benwa .
Good answer. Thats why bars are made from 16" to whatever.
To each their own. [emoji106][emoji482]

 

[Maintenance Chief]

I think for me once you get so many saws you can start setting up certain ones for different duty.
I've run a couple 362s new at parks teaching chainsaw safety and "stock" I wouldn't exceed 24" without going to full skip.
Empirical analysis is the way I approach what works best for the saw. I have a Pro Mac 60 I've tried 4 different combinations of bars and sprockets on ,for bucking larger stuff a 7 pin with a 24" full skip is great , but limbing up a tree the 8 pin and a 20" bar is outstanding.
Sometimes you just have to try it out .
One pet peev I have is seeing a 90cc + saw with a 20" bar though, I just think thats ridiculous unless it's a race saw.

 

[Red97]

View attachment 270410
32" 2159 FTW!!!

Dibz on the car

 

[Dub11]

Dibz on the car

That's a low mileage unit. Iirc 60,000 ish.

 

[Xr650jkallen]

I run a 22" 3/8 .063 bar on my 056 mag 2 for firewood duty. On the 562xp that I just got, runs a 20" 3/8 .050. I find that I am extremely impressed with the 562 running a 20" bar. Even though I am impressed with a 20" on the 562 and it would probably be just as happy with a 24. I just dont see the need, the saw is extremely well balanced with a 20. Now the 056, it dont really get balanced unless it's running a 28", but I really like the heavy 22 for firewood duty.

 

[Nutball]

View attachment 270410
32" 2159 FTW!!!

It does say power match, so it must not be too big

 

[Nutball]

I think for me once you get so many saws you can start setting up certain ones for different duty.
I've run a couple 362s new at parks teaching chainsaw safety and "stock" I wouldn't exceed 24" without going to full skip.
Empirical analysis is the way I approach what works best for the saw. I have a Pro Mac 60 I've tried 4 different combinations of bars and sprockets on ,for bucking larger stuff a 7 pin with a 24" full skip is great , but limbing up a tree the 8 pin and a 20" bar is outstanding.
Sometimes you just have to try it out .
One pet peev I have is seeing a 90cc + saw with a 20" bar though, I just think thats ridiculous unless it's a race saw.

Most of the wood I run into is less than 20", and if it is more, I just go around to the other side. And a 90cc does race through wood with a 20" bar, so there is the speed advantage. Back when all I had was a 2188 (bought for speed more than big bar ability) and a 271t, I had 3 bars for the 2188: 20" I almost always used even in 30" wood, also good for cutting brush down in the back of a truck or trailer, 32" for when I knew I'd be cutting a lot of big wood, and 42" because I was a bit lacking on skill then and wanted to cut huge logs in one go.

 

[Fullkip]

Out on the left coast it's a whole different deal. Steep rough ground and doing all our limbing on the log . The bucking can get complex. One sided stumping is the norm..
For me a fast ported lightweight saw and bar is the way to be most productive. Modded oil pumps and fullskip square chain that is tuned to the power head ... Being #Gritty is helpful too... lol

 

[pwheel]

My ms460 will run the 32" bar w/full skip but, in the last five years, I've only used it on five tree removals, all between 4' - 5' in diameter. Cost me nearly $100 iirc; might as well sell. Clumsy handling. But that's Massachusetts lol. West Coast is a different story for sure.

 

[Lightning Performance]

My ms460 will run the 32" bar w/full skip but, in the last five years, I've only used it on five tree removals, all between 4' - 5' in diameter. Cost me nearly $100 iirc; might as well sell. Clumsy handling. But that's Massachusetts lol.
West Coast scene is a different story for sure. Humboldt face cuts (not in my skill set right now, maybe never) from one side required. Ported power head to save weight w/ a long bar also required.

Guys here want the same thing for bucking.
Long bar, light weight power head, adequate oil pump and just for bucking. I run mostly twenty bars and then go to the twenty eight with 90+ ccs. Finding myself reaching for 60-80ish cc saws now with added power and better AV systems running a twenty four or eight. No point in going backwards.
Chunking down is best when climbing with a bar that will make the cut like a twenty or thirty something on a light 60cc saw. Ported or not does not really matter here but helps with dead locust and oaks. Chain is the key in a tree. Conservative full comp most times for control. One of the few times I use a 16" 3/8 bar on pencils.

The comment about a twenty inch bar 8pin on a 90+ cc saw tells me you don't cut white oak crotches much or dead locust or you like to do it real slow imo.

 

[p61 western]

That's a low mileage unit. Iirc 60,000 ish.

Start the bidding at $5

 

[Deets066]

The comment about a twenty inch bar 8pin on a 90+ cc saw tells me you don't cut white oak crotches much or dead locust or you like to do it real slow imo.

Don’t hate because your saws don’t have any asss. I ran 28” 8 pin on 70cc regardless of the wood. My chains were faster with an 8 than a 7

 

[Lightning Performance]

Don’t hate because your saws don’t have any asss. I ran 28” 8 pin on 70cc regardless of the wood. My chains were faster with an 8 than a 7

Dig all you want. I won't bother me none.
I'd like to race those saws you talk so much about with off the roll chains.
Are you available for TN 2021?
Saw some top runners there worth chasing.
Question for you.
Do you build and port all your saws or buy them? Just curious

 

[Deets066]

Dig all you want. I won't bother me none.
I'd like to race those saws you talk so much about with off the roll chains.
Are you available for TN 2021?
Saw some top runners there worth chasing.
Question for you.
Do you build and port all your saws or buy them? Just curious

I machine and port my own saws Kenny, how bout you?
You sure talk a big game but never once post any pics or vids of your *s-word.

 

[Nighthunter]

In Europe it's kinda a unspoken rule(for me anyw
60cc =15-18" bar
70cc =20-24"bar

I'm 6'5 and a fit 280 pounds, I've logged for donkey years with a 60cc saw an a 15" bar, yet have I had any major back problems, no. all can say is use what suits you best,

 

[P.M.P.]

In Europe it's kinda a unspoken rule(for me anyw
60cc =15-18" bar
70cc =20-24"bar

I'm 6'5 and a fit 280 pounds, I've logged for donkey years with a 60cc saw an a 15" bar, yet have I had any major back problems, no. all can say is use what suits you best,

Over here you hear guys judge a saw by how big the bar is.
It's Retarded to have a conversation with some about saws.

 

[P.M.P.]

Dig all you want. I won't bother me none.
I'd like to race those saws you talk so much about with off the roll chains.
Are you available for TN 2021?
Saw some top runners there worth chasing.
Question for you.
Do you build and port all your saws or buy them? Just curious

I would like to race some of his saws also. I can imagine him saying to me
Hey Gunner get your dickbeaters off my saw.