Bar rail groove closers

[Duane(Pa)]

Do the roller bearing style rail closers work? I have a few .058’s that I would like to take down to .050
They might be clapped out .050’ to begin with? Penny will fit, should only be able to fit a dime…

 

[EFSM]

Haven't had any luck with one, but I haven't tried really hard.

 

[066 redeye]

Made my own.Works well.

 

[Philbert]

People say that they can help a bar with a sloppy groove get a little more life, but that they don’t work magic.

Some bar rails reportedly ‘spring back’.

But, if a bar groove is worn, and you close the tops of the rails, you end up with a dovetail shaped groove; not one that is flat and straight. So, the chain can still wobble, in some cases.

Philbert

 

[Hinerman]

Do the roller bearing style rail closers work? I have a few .058’s that I would like to take down to .050
They might be clapped out .050’ to begin with? Penny will fit, should only be able to fit a dime…

Yes, they worked for me, too good in fact. I squeezed mine too tight and couldn't get the chain in the groove; had to use a chisel to spread the rails. Consider the source though, I suck at any kind of repair work...

 

[Dolkitafreak]

They do squeeze them, but results don’t stay from my experience.

 

[Duane(Pa)]

Yes, they worked for me, too good in fact. I squeezed mine too tight and couldn't get the chain in the groove; had to use a chisel to spread the rails. Consider the source though, I suck at any kind of repair work...

Thanks for the report. You are not alone!

 

[Hinerman]

They do squeeze them, but results don’t stay from my experience.

I don't think that is the result of the rail closer, the bar just wears out, cheap bars wear out faster, the rail closer just buys you more time, which can be a long time for somebody who does not use their bar an awful lot. It is like charging a car battery, it will get you more time, but eventually you are going to have to scrap the battery and buy a new one.

 

[Stihl036]

A few inches of chain of the gauge you are aiming for is handy as a quick check. It sure beats checking with a full loop.

 

[066 redeye]

I am just a fire wood hack.
Closing the rails might get me another season.

 

[Wilhelm]

I ran .050" chains I got from the US in my used .058" bars without issues.

Keep the bar rails dressed/flat and the chain sharp and there should be no issues.

20" 72DL 3/8" full chisel in my case.

 

[Duane(Pa)]

I ran .050" chains I got from the US in my used .058" bars without issues.

Keep the bar rails dressed/flat and the chain sharp and there should be no issues.

20" 72DL 3/8" full chisel in my case.

Good to know. One bar is an old roller nose that I’d like to keep around. The other is basically going to be used for flush cutting stumps.

 

[Partner]

I once had only one 1.5mm guide bar and the dealer gave me a 1.6mm chain but I had to return it because it was getting stuck.

 

[Squish9]

I put the feeler gauges needed into the bar groove then use a hammer and a flat surface to close them.

Go slightly thinner than required for the feeler gauges that you put in the groove. For 050 use 048 or so. It allows the metal to bend in a bit and come back out when it's hit.

Yes it's rough but it works.

 

[Philbert]

I once proposed to Bailey’s that they sell a set of steel, bar groove shims to use for that purpose (0.043”, 0.050”, 0.058”, 0.063”).

They would be tapered on two edges, so that they could also be used to open up rails that were squeezed a bit too far.

They never got back to me.

Philbert

 

[Squish9]

There used to be a really good Oregon tool that looked like a big wedge. You put the right thickness part into the groove and the outer part would close the rails in when you hit down on it.

Wish I had one but the hammer and gauges works well enough for me

 

[ZERO]

They do work.

Get some decent aftermarket bearings, they tend to have less radial run out than the stock thus giving a better feel.

Close on a brand new chain, if it starts to bind on a new chain, should work fine on a used one.

Go in small increments, many get impatient and go too far too soon.

There is no uniform wear in the rails, one side may be fine, the other side may need a bit more.

Metal shaping at its basic, get to know the bar personality, the closing tool personality, adjust accordingly and arrive at your desired outcome.

 

[ZERO]

They do work.

Get some decent aftermarket bearings, they tend to have less radial run out than the stock thus giving a better feel.

Close on a brand new chain, if it starts to bind on a new chain, should work fine on a used one.

Go in small increments, many get impatient and go too far too soon.

There is no uniform wear in the rails, one side may be fine, the other side may need a bit more.

Metal shaping at its basic, get to know the bar personality, the closing tool personality, adjust accordingly and arrive at your desired outcome.

View attachment 466162

 

[Partner]

I've already prepared everything, all that's left is to put it together, i.e. drilling, threading and welding

 

[jmester]

Got these from Stihl many years ago. They work well if you close the rails to tight. The one on top is part #1106 893 9200 | Groove drift, 1.6 mm. The bottom one is part #1110 893 9200 | Groove drift, 1.3 mm. I have found as others have said with using bar rail closers the bars tend to spring back pretty quick. But I was cutting timber professionally at the time. I would maybe get another day. Probably should have just went to .058 gauge from .050.

Sorry it's bold font.