High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys Hockfire Saws

Any Constructive criticism? Pics.

Stihlmar

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Saw was running.

Ended up at 99/120/83

Ran very strong compared to the farmertec cylinder. Was pleased for what it was but the more I ran it, the worse it got.

This is the second one that has done the same thing. On the intake and exhaust side. About 1 tank of fuel?
 

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Red97

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What's the piston look like?
 

Stihlmar

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Intake side looks like it might have ate something?

Top of piston has 1 small mark on? And the piston top edge looks fine. Thought maybe my cutter didn’t get all the way to edges of the band.
 

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Red97

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Looks like a "burr" was left after cutting.

Need to make sure you scrape that out good.

How much smaller is your mandrel than the bore size?
c650582eba881a42389470225399eb72.jpg
 

huskihl

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Exhaust floor is too flat. Or it has burrs on it.
Looks like a "burr" was left after cutting.

Need to make sure you scrape that out good.

How much smaller is your mandrel than the bore size?
c650582eba881a42389470225399eb72.jpg
The Eagle Eye has landed. Good eye
 

huskihl

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And make sure there's an arch on the ex roof and floor for the rings to get tucked in
 

Stihlmar

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Aside from any burrs or port bevels. I was talking with some old Timer tractor pulling guys and they had asked a few questions here and there about what exactly I was doing.

They had made a comment that while increasing compression is important they seems to think that there is a much needed increase in oil ratio. Increased compression makes more heat and therefore much more oil is needed.

Is this something that is typically true? Never even crossed my mind but both cylinder I have done recently have had the same issues. I usually run a 40-50:1 ratio. Thanks
 

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Aside from any burrs or port bevels. I was talking with some old Timer tractor pulling guys and they had asked a few questions here and there about what exactly I was doing.

They had made a comment that while increasing compression is important they seems to think that there is a much needed increase in oil ratio. Increased compression makes more heat and therefore much more oil is needed.

Is this something that is typically true? Never even crossed my mind but both cylinder I have done recently have had the same issues. I usually run a 40-50:1 ratio. Thanks
I run 40:1 in my stuffs.
 

davidwyby

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Oil burns in diesels...at higher compression ratios. Slower, longer power stroke, better ring seal maybe, more lube. Better all the way down to 18:1 I’ve read. But let’s not get too far off the subject ;-)
 

drf256

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Some oils burn, some (mostly synthetics) don’t unless exposed to higher heat-like with milling.

I use 32:1 in all. 50:1 is more for the EPA than the Equipment.

You’ve got a lot of junk at the Band to Bore interface. It’s helpful to lay your mandrel flat on your bench with the cutter facing upwards and rotate the jug on it as a final step. Apply down pressure, just to cut the interface are even with the bore. I used to do it on every mandrel cut jug. You’d be suprised what comes out of a jug the “looked” perfect.
 

Stihlmar

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Got 2 more jugs from HL today. Threw the wheel on and timed them up.

Was very surprised that they were very similar. Pretty rough in the transfer casting and the bevels aren’t stellar but neither are mine....

Back to squish band. Notice in my picture how my pick is on that small ridge. When I check squish that is all that gets smashed. Should a guy chance messing with the timing to try and true the band to one surface? Would that be one of the differences that make a oem superior? Aside from quality and timing numbers. These seem pretty darn close except for the trans.

Appreciate any opinions.
 

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Stihlmar

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These were also twice the money as the first one I got from HL. They were labeled as High Quality on the wrapper as the first one was not. All three have been WarHawk? I think it was brand.

Seems as though I had to work the first one over quite a bit to get numbers close these?
 

drf256

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I know Warhawk was a brand Bruce was trying to evaluate for sale. I think they are a step behind Hyway as far as AM go.

If you’re gonna keep playing, buy the cheapest AM you can find. If you’re ready to actually port a cylinder for your saw, just buy a used OEM. There will NEVER be an AM jug that matches the quality of OEM, there will always be some trade off.

Plain and simple, most AM jugs are just crap. Even the ones that look OK lack the contours in the transfers that make the power. Then you spend twice the hours on a saw, decide to sell it, and no one wants it. Other than for experimentation with bores that aren’t available OEM, I won’t touch an AM jug anymore.
 

Deets066

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Worked on the cylinder tonight. To impatient to take pictures and it’s nothing you guys haven’t seen before. Just worse. I don’t have all the fancy tools and it’s all AM chit.

Raised tranfers and exhaust. Put jb weld in intake. Plug looks to be dang close but doesn’t hit. Hoping to get comp check and possibly proof of life tomorrow.

Exh. 100 Trans. 120. Hope to get intake to 83

A very long intake duration will cause sluggish acceleration and extra fuel usage? Is that correct?
More intake doesn't make it sluggish, more snappy if ya ask me. But generally a loss of torque and uses more fuel
 

davidwyby

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I’m planning to get rid of the band in mine. Kills squish/compression.
 
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