A better chain catcher

[livemusic]

I resurrected a chain that got thrown but it was a pain to get it done but I got it cleaned up. Reminded me to try to prevent chain throws! Other than that, is there a chain catcher that is not as hard on chains? I have seen ceramic chain catchers, do these help? Can you get them for most any saw?

 

[huskyboy]

I resurrected a chain that got thrown but it was a pain to get it done but I got it cleaned up. Reminded me to try to prevent chain throws! Other than that, is there a chain catcher that is not as hard on chains? I have seen ceramic chain catchers, do these help? Can you get them for most any saw?

You can retrofit the stihl and husky roller catchers to most saws if there’s room to drill a hole on the bottom spike and enough clearance below the chain. Most of the time they already have a hole especially on the bigger saws. Most of the small saws like yours don’t have them.

 

[Piston Skirt]

I resurrected a chain that got thrown but it was a pain to get it done but I got it cleaned up. Reminded me to try to prevent chain throws! Other than that, is there a chain catcher that is not as hard on chains? I have seen ceramic chain catchers, do these help? Can you get them for most any saw?

Roller catchers save chains a bit.
Option on Stihls and Huskies, standard (but not limited) to X series Echoes.

 

[Philbert]

Chain catchers are usually much softer than the chains, to reduce damage. Aluminum or plastic. Some people consider them to be consumable or sacrificial, like a fuse. Rubber might be softer, if you can make that work. Ceramic would seem to go the other way.

Most of the damage I see from thrown chains is not from the chain catcher, but from the drive sprocket; especially spur sprockets. After the chain is 'thrown', tension is released, and the drive links fall back from the sprocket, which is still turning (10,000 to 14,000 RPM). Those 'teeth' are bashing the drive links like a boxer hitting a speed bag. This results in burrs, and sometimes, broken drive links.

Rim sprockets are less likely to inflict this damage. Letting go of the trigger as soon as possible helps too. Some damage may also occur as the chain jumps out of the groove, across the hardened guide bar rails.

I just repaired a nice STIHL chain that had multiple burrs on its drive links ; not too hard to do. Here is a summary from a post of mine in another forum from several years ago:

I frequently see drive links burred from jumping out of the guide bar groove when run too loose, or when branches get tangled. Here's what I have learned:

1. Flat file on the burrs. Round file to reshape the scraper/ gullet portion if needed. I do this on a small anvil, small block of steel, or the back of a machinists vice. Slow, but effective.

2. Hold loop 'inside out' and guide drive links against grinding wheel on a bench grinder. Faster, but leaves rough finish.

3. As above, but use a 3M ScotchBrite (or equivalent) deburring wheel on a bench motor. About as fast as a grinding wheel, but leaves a smooth finish. ***My preferred method.*** Expensive, but 'pays for itself' by saving even a few chains.

4. 'Redneck Method #1': force burred links through the bars till they loosen up. Not always possible. Causes extra wear on bars and sprockets.

5. . 'Redneck Method #2': lay burred drive link on small anvil and flatten burrs with ball peen hammer. Then follow up with . 'Redneck Method #1'.

6. I guess you could also clean up the burrs with a Dremel type tool. Never tried it.

Philbert

 

[Gunn]

Westies take the plastic Stihl roller catcher and put a piece of rubber hose over them for a softer catch.