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8 pin on a ported Echo 590

dahmer

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Thinking of trying to run an 8 pin on my @Red97 ported 590, anybody else try this? Also I’m running standard Echo 20” bar which is 70 dl, wondering if a 72 dl chain will work with the bigger rim. Going to try but thought I’ld ask for any input from pst experience. Thanks.
 

Ryan Browne

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Every time I tried 8 pin I thought it was good till I went back to a 7.

This is my experience also. Which reminds me, I should get around to pulling the clutch off my 395. It's ported and pulls a 36" with an 8-pin, but I'd sure like to see what it feels like with a 7.
 

Nutball

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I'll have to try an 8t on a 620 I have after porting it. Any other saw old wait until 90cc before putting an 8t on, but the Echos have so much torque.
 

Wilhelm

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I have tried a 8T sprocket on my PS-7900 and I still give it a try every now and then on my large frame Dolmar's.
I don't like it in the hard woods I am bucking!
I feel there must be a balance of chain speed and torque otherwise the PH will fall flat on it's face, I get this balance tweaking the chain.

If Your Echo is ported it should already keep higher in cut rpm's, why torture it with a 8T.
In the end only You can decide whether a 8T works better to Your satisfaction than a 7T.

I like 7T and adjust each saws chain to the individual PH, my PS-7900 is running rakers about twice as low than my PS-550 does - nearly the same main B&C setup, 20" vs. 18".
All my mid to large saws wear a main 18" or 20" B&C work setup, each saw has it's own chain.
I mostly buck turkey oak (very very dense), but also oak, beech, ash & hornbeam firewood logs.
 

andyshine77

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Nothing wrong with trying an 8 pin they're cheap. Now the 590 comes with a spur sprocket drum from the factory, did you drop in rim drum?
 

Wilhelm

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I use my rule of thumb gauge, estimated looks works well for me too. :p

I just ballpark it, but the Archer Fast Filer I have works well too.
I am planning to make my own rollers for that jig, that way I can partially control round file depth, and flat file depth on rakers.
 

Bigmac

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I run a 8 on a lot of saws, even my 361 20” bar, I don’t think it’s faster when the bar is buried, but if your cutting smaller stuff, like limbing or 6”-14” it’s noticeably faster, on my big saws it’s painful to limb with a 7 t and skip, and I don’t, I like the 8t on most of my stuff and run a little shorter bar, I put a 16”on the 361 and 8t and it loves that the 20 is fine but I mainly cut 16” and wood with it then jump up to the next size saw
 

dahmer

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I run a 8 on a lot of saws, even my 361 20” bar, I don’t think it’s faster when the bar is buried, but if your cutting smaller stuff, like limbing or 6”-14” it’s noticeably faster, on my big saws it’s painful to limb with a 7 t and skip, and I don’t, I like the 8t on most of my stuff and run a little shorter bar, I put a 16”on the 361 and 8t and it loves that the 20 is fine but I mainly cut 16” and wood with it then jump up to the next size saw
If possible I always try to grab a saw/bar combination that leaves the nose out of the wood. I’m thinking with an 8 pin this thing should destroy 12-16” wood.
 

huskyboy

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Depending on what your cutting, what saw your running and what b/c combo is on the saw... one rim size can be better than the other. For work I usually prefer a 7 pin rim on most saws with a good feeding chain suited for it. Experiment... find out what works for you.
 
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