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42” RW bar

Thumper88

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I only gained 1.19 lbs. It sure felt like I took off more than that. I didn’t want to take too much off for risk of it flopping around like the Factory Oregon RW bars. I guess either way it’s still an improvement

Its not just the amount of weight you took off? You took if off from the farthest point forward of the balance so that makes a huge difference in feel. Ill take a slightly heavier saw thats balanced over a light saw thats super nose heavy
 

MG2186

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Its not just the amount of weight you took off? You took if off from the farthest point forward of the balance so that makes a huge difference in feel. Ill take a slightly heavier saw thats balanced over a light saw thats super nose heavy
Yes it definitely helped on the nose diving, probably why it felt so much lighter on the saw
 

Junkyard

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That came out nice. One thing I’m curious about is the shape of the cut out. I wonder if it’ll stress crack in the corners. It seems like all the insets I’ve seen were oval or the end was a semi-circular shape, that could be because it’s just easier to machine or it might be to mitigate the corner becoming a starting point of cracks. I don’t know that it makes much of a difference on a chainsaw bar but I know it does on stuff at work. We don’t like sharp corners in anything fabricated. Either way it looks great, maybe we’ll all learn something.
 

MG2186

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That came out nice. One thing I’m curious about is the shape of the cut out. I wonder if it’ll stress crack in the corners. It seems like all the insets I’ve seen were oval or the end was a semi-circular shape, that could be because it’s just easier to machine or it might be to mitigate the corner becoming a starting point of cracks. I don’t know that it makes much of a difference on a chainsaw bar but I know it does on stuff at work. We don’t like sharp corners in anything fabricated. Either way it looks great, maybe we’ll all learn something.
Thanks, the corners are slightly rounded if you look real close. I’m not experienced enough on my old hand crank mill to make ovals like you are referring too. I have 2 Tnsmura bars that are cracked by the inserts so those aren’t crack proof either. Time will tell I guess
 

Woodpecker

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Thanks, the corners are slightly rounded if you look real close. I’m not experienced enough on my old hand crank mill to make ovals like you are referring too. I have 2 Tnsmura bars that are cracked by the inserts so those aren’t crack proof either. Time will tell I guess
The nice thing is since you went the diy route you already know a guy who can repair it;)
 

Squareground3691

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Thanks, the corners are slightly rounded if you look real close. I’m not experienced enough on my old hand crank mill to make ovals like you are referring too. I have 2 Tnsmura bars that are cracked by the inserts so those aren’t crack proof either. Time will tell I guess
Wonder if a metal hole saw like 2”diameter would work to produce the larger end radius you need like the Oregon then just conventional mill the straight part to blend in
 

MG2186

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Wonder if a metal hole saw like 2”diameter would work to produce the larger end radius you need like the Oregon then just conventional mill the straight part to blend in
Not likely since I didn’t go all the way through the bar. There’s .050” left for the epoxy to sit/bond too. I like how this looks and turned out. Only thing I’m going to do differently on the next one is make aluminum inserts instead of epoxy
 

Squareground3691

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Not likely since I didn’t go all the way through the bar. There’s .050” left for the epoxy to sit/bond too. I like how this looks and turned out. Only thing I’m going to do differently on the next one is make aluminum inserts instead of epoxy[/QUOTE
Not likely since I didn’t go all the way through the bar. There’s .050” left for the epoxy to sit/bond too. I like how this looks and turned out. Only thing I’m going to do differently on the next one is make aluminum inserts instead of epoxy
You still gonna leave material with aluminum inserts ?
 
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