View attachment 220936 View attachment 220937 I've read and watched videos where people get fine particles in the carb throat on the 2511T. Gets past the filter to carb flange mating surface I believe. The filter fits a bit loose. I took steps to stop that before it could happen to my new Mastermind ported pocket rocket. First I removed the flange that the filter twist locks into and put a thin layer of grease on the back, where it interfaces the carburetor and reassembled. Next I made a foam "gasket" from air filter material and oiled it with Belray foam filter oil. I then sandwiched it between the filter and the flange. I removed the filter a few times to make sure the foam didn't get forced into the carb opening when twisting the filter into place. The filter fits much more snug now. So far so good. Clean as a whistle.
Thanks a TON for that, I use all kinds of various ways to ensure "no fines" and there's nothing better than stumbling-upon a ready-made solution
In your 1st picture, looking at the inlet-perimeter of the carb-throat...can't help but think of flaring that out a lil, will have to measure the throat versus the air-filter's fittings!
Have 60PPI (or 80pore maybe?) foam to cut-to-fit for this, thanks again this looks like the cleanest fix! As you can see I'm a bit OCD with my filtration:
https://opeforum.com/threads/660-air-filter-fix-for-fines.25236/#post-1326611
I'm used to running stihls at work so the few fines that get past my 2511t don't bother me much. I just try to tap filter off every other tank and wipe off around carb throat. 2511t compared to 461/201t/661 isn't comparable for the amount of chips/fines that get past filter.
To be clear, do you mean Stihls are better or worse? I posted a link ^ in prior paragraph with pics of how I do my air-boxes, so I really wouldn't know because all my stuff has 'pre-filtered' airbox-inlets (I filter the OEM inlets as well, of course...this lets me run no pre-filter or "sock filter" over the filter w/o needing to clean or change it every hour!!)
I did a similar mod for my 2511t with foam as well it works great...i bet with grease added its even better i used grease an o-ring but the foam did the trick...
I have a whole box of o-rings, grease, foam etc for filters, seems every saw's needs are different and virtually NONE seal properly off-shelf (have heard the 7310 echo is quite impressive here, youtuber @mweba1 has a "46 tank review" and the airbox itself is still VERY clean, w/o
any fines having gotten-past!)
mine is stock i use it for palms so no need for it to be modded except to run cooler.... any videos of your before and after? did mastermind make any on his youtube?
Gotta love palms....so wet, so destructive to saws (the manual w/ my 2511t was 1st time I saw an OEM advising to be wary of this, being in FL I've learned it long-ago, the hard way...so many clutch-bearings / etc gone before their time!!)
Its good to see the wee saws getting port work. They often don't get worked on as they are tiny & good work costs about what the saw does. But they 25cc needs all the help it can get and would be really noticeable. Good little saws them 2511's, Echo hit a home run with that saw.
It's true...but at the same time you could say these lil ones need it the most, I mean not only does power//weight matter more for your main climbsaw than, say, one of your groundsaws,
but powersaw power-per-displacement goes up (at least through 100cc's) so lower-displacement saws "should need it more" especially climbsaws!
(Note-- I found it interesting that, of every saw I own, the 2511t is the
sole powersaw that doesn't adhere to the "more horsepower-per-CC, the more total displacement in the powerhead" rule!! It eeks-out the 50% larger 355t by a lil bit,
very impressive and that's OEM spec 1.5HP which we all know is boosted like 15-20%
just by addressing the obnoxiously-choked muffling of this saw!)
I was interested in the big bores as well but, have read many posts and talked to many ope members who say the BB's don't increase performance and can actually hurt performance. Most of it having to do with either freeporting issues or something to do with case volume not being sufficient enough to flow well. The intake tract for these saws are fairly small as well. Most of the "Duke" parts are sourced from the same place farmertec gets their parts. So... I would not be surprised if you order a cylinder from them and it is the same as the one you would get from farmertec. I would probably go with the hyway cylinder if I was to try one. They should be a direct bolt on. No modifying bolt holes.. I think I remember the post you are referring to and it was either a prototype jug or they were bolting it on an 064. The "magnum" badge is mostly a marketing thing. Some saws like the 038 had "mag" and "super" models that were larger than the base model 038.
My latest saw (660 #4) seems to run very well. I have a non modified 660 I'm going to compare it to. Then I'm going to take the non modified one down and do port work and a hyway pop-up.
I've read and watched videos where people get fine particles in the carb throat on the 2511T. Gets past the filter to carb flange mating surface I believe. The filter fits a bit loose. I took steps to stop that before it could happen to my new Mastermind ported pocket rocket. First I removed the flange that the filter twist locks into and put a thin layer of grease on the back, where it interfaces the carburetor and reassembled. Next I made a foam "gasket" from air filter material and oiled it with Belray foam filter oil. I then sandwiched it between the filter and the flange. I removed the filter a few times to make sure the foam didn't get forced into the carb opening when twisting the filter into place. The filter fits much more snug now. So far so good. Clean as a whistle.
