044 10mm cases and crank are worth?

[JonCraig]

Bought what I thought might be a project. Probably a big one. Best I can tell it's a 10mm 044 (1128 series, 50mm piston and 10mm wrist pin... so has to be 044, right?). But it's literally two case halves, crank, plus aftermarket piston & cylinder (dang....). Crank bearings are shot, lower-end rod bearing is good best I can tell. Looks like a project saw that the guy gave up on.

How much would two cases & crank be worth, ya think?

 

[Basher]

For me, about $50.

 

[MustangMike]

I think I would look for a 10 mm cylinder, I think they are out there … then just get a piston!

 

[JonCraig]

I mean... I've definitely thought about it. Would be... pretty expensive. If I'm doing a full-blown restore, I'd want all OEM and would totally be OCD about not having a flippy cap tank.

Does seem like it would be fun to run against my early 046 D w/ good numbers.

 

[MustangMike]

Tough to find good 044 tank handles. I have one, that I repaired, but did not use, cause I like the flippy cap ones. The tank vents on the 044s were a PITA!

I fixed one with a AM vent meant for a 029.

 

[Mkinslow]

Build it. Even if it takes you awhile

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

 

[drf256]

I mean... I've definitely thought about it. Would be... pretty expensive. If I'm doing a full-blown restore, I'd want all OEM and would totally be OCD about not having a flippy cap tank.

Does seem like it would be fun to run against my early 046 D w/ good numbers.

It is gonna be pricey if you’re going for a perfect resto. I’ve got an oem NOS 10mm P&C and an OEM used slantfin jug here I can let go.

All saw builds add up, especially once you get into new oem parts.

 

[JonCraig]

Whoa! That’s certainly tempting Doc. NOS I’d feel guilty buying off of you; that should go to something really special. Used slant jug, however... ;-)

I have some feelers out for a parts saw on here and on AS. If eBay is an indicator, the tank will be harder to find than most everything else. :-/

Still trying to keep all this straight. Slant fin jugs from a 10mm saw had wider ports and (maybe?) better timing #’s. Did slant fins from a 12mm saw still have better ports & timing? And what sorts of numbers am I looking for?

 

[MustangMike]

Still trying to keep all this straight. Slant fin jugs from a 10mm saw had wider ports and (maybe?) better timing #’s. Did slant fins from a 12mm saw still have better ports & timing? And what sorts of numbers am I looking for?

"Generally" yes. IMO, the real early ones are not as strong running as the ones from the Red Lever period (late 10 mm early 12 mm).

I have a 12 mm straight fin jug that I am not impressed with, but also had a 440 straight fin jug that ran very strong, so go figure!

KS made many of the stronger running jugs.

 

[drf256]

Whoa! That’s certainly tempting Doc. NOS I’d feel guilty buying off of you; that should go to something really special. Used slant jug, however... ;-)

I have some feelers out for a parts saw on here and on AS. If eBay is an indicator, the tank will be harder to find than most everything else. :-/

Still trying to keep all this straight. Slant fin jugs from a 10mm saw had wider ports and (maybe?) better timing #’s. Did slant fins from a 12mm saw still have better ports & timing? And what sorts of numbers am I looking for?

The slant fin jugs were used on the 10mm and early 12mm saws. They are branded either KS or Stihl.

The slant jugs have narrower ports. They certainly have a very flat ex roof akin to an 034S roof. Some say this was the running advantage and how they got their unique sound. The factory bulletin said that 10mm pistons had narrower skirts and ring pins than 12mm pistons. So you aren’t supposed to use a 10mm piston in a 12mm jug, but a 12mm piston can be safely used in either.

I’ve found that 044 jugs run really well with the squish band cleaned up and the base cut for squish. The 044 slantfin I have here has that done already. 20 out of band and 10 off the base so that a metal oem base gasket assembly will yield a squish of .018. It hasn’t been ported (yet). They generally pull around 185 psi with this mod.

I’ve been suprised by how well they run with just a little machine work and stock ports. Very close to a full out ported jug.

 

[MustangMike]

My 10 mm has a KS jug and piston. I bought a new 10mm piston that I intended to install when I deleted the base gasket, but the replacement piston is a Mahle, and I did not use it.

The KS piston has "stabilizers" that the Mahle did not have, and the skirts of the Mahle were a bit shorter, so I left the original piston and rings in the saw, and she runs just great! No port work done to her, but I did advance the timing .020.