038 Mag II on a 36" bar for milling Update: got a free bar for the Dolkita

[hacskaroly]

Same here. I think I have everything but...
Looking for a cheap 5' bar to go with it.

I have to mill out a notch out on my fuel tank to get the felling dog/AV mount to fit and then mod a Stihl 090 muffler to fit...2100 mufflers cost too much...even for the rusty ones... I have a 28" bar for now, will be looking for something with .404.

 

[Al Smith]

I have never thought of using an 038 mag to mill with which is my least favorite use of a chainsaw .Some years ago fooling with a Granberg bolt on guide ripping 18" red oak. I did try an 048 Stihl .It was as slow as a elderly snail with arthritus .Then I tried a McCulloch 125 C .World of difference .I could get about a foot a minute in that oak but it certainly was a chore to put it lightly .
Ripping and stumping are the two most hard services you can subject a chainsaw to .It takes a large saw and not using 50 to one fuel mix unless you want to cook the engine .

 

[CountryBoy19]

Small update...by pure coincidence I came across a 28" bar for the 7900 free (might have to replace the sprocket) so I think I will see how that goes before I slap anything on the 038...

 

[Semotony]

Update: I was at a friends today and he said he found a bar in the woods, presumably from the last time his place was logged. It won't fit his Stihl. As it turns out it's a 28" Oregon Powermatch for my Dolkita...I think I will run with that for now... the sprocket nose is tight (will see if I can free it up) but the bar itself is in really good condition...I guess these things have a way of working themselves out...


I have a nice West German 038 Mag 2 I picked up several years ago at an auction for a song because they couldn't get it to start (choke linkage was messed up). I really didn't need it, but at $160 I couldn't resist...it's sat unused since then and it's time to get it to work.

I already have a Dolkita 7900 and want to keep that as my saw to grab when I need smile on my face. I'm thinking I'll make the Mag 2 a dedicated milling rig.

I'm going to put a 36" bar on it. I know that's pushing the length a bit for that saw, should I use skip or semi-skip if I'm milling with it? I'm thinking I'll lighten the load on it a bit, even if it takes a touch longer to complete a cut.

Thoughts?

Semi skip or skip on my longer bars make progress down the log quicker. Theory is there's less binding from overload of chips

 

[Wilhelm]

Dolmar PS-7300 (73cc), 36" 3/8" B&C, full chisel round ground bucking chain, ~20" cherry log butt end downed some 2 years ago.
No problem, just let the saw do her thing and take breaks during slabbing to allow for some cool down.




My first ever attempt at CSMing, got 4 slabs, will get one more out of that log.

 

[HumBurner]

Dolmar PS-7300 (73cc), 36" 3/8" B&C, full chisel round ground bucking chain, ~20" cherry log butt end downed some 2 years ago.
No problem, just let the saw do her thing and take breaks during slabbing to allow for some cool down.

View attachment 435400
View attachment 435401

My first ever attempt at CSMing, got 4 slabs, will get one more out of that log.

View attachment 435402

Were you running the mill straight (90*) with the log, or at an angle? It loads the saw a a hair more, but I found it easier to move the mill through the log as well a getting a better finish running it an angle, after entering the log.

 

[Wilhelm]

Were you running the mill straight (90*) with the log, or at an angle? It loads the saw a a hair more, but I found it easier to move the mill through the log as well a getting a better finish running it an angle, after entering the log.

At an angle maybe 20-30°, seemed to feed a little better.
I also did a seesaw thing, left ugly deep ruts though.

The finest finish is when I'd manage to get an even continuous feed, which is not for long.

It will be a learning process.
I am fairly happy how it went.

 

[HumBurner]

At an angle maybe 20-30°, seemed to feed a little better.
I also did a seesaw thing, left ugly deep ruts though.

The finest finish is when I'd manage to get an even continuous feed, which is not for long.

It will be a learning process.
I am fairly happy how it went.

Nice.

Some people do like running straight-on (90*), but I found that to not work for me.


It's a learning curve. For me, it was a long one, but I was milling on uneven ground most of the time, which readily complicates things.

Stick with it! From the saw side of things, you understand the teeth/depths and bar maintenance. The rest of it is staying level in all dimensions and reading the wood.

Cheers!


Edit for photos:

 

[hacskaroly]

It will be a learning process.
I am fairly happy how it went.

I had a customer who uses a MS 881 for milling, especially on longer cuts, he will stop about half way and let the saw idle to cool down and then continue. Had another customer that used a MS 311 and went balls out and ended up blowing off one of the side transfer covers off of his cylinder (granted the 311 is not your typical milling saw), take your time and take care of your saw! Its all fun and learning until the saw quits on you!!

 

[Wilhelm]

I had a customer who uses a MS 881 for milling, especially on longer cuts, he will stop about half way and let the saw idle to cool down and then continue. Had another customer that used a MS 311 and went balls out and ended up blowing off one of the side transfer covers off of his cylinder (granted the 311 is not your typical milling saw), take your time and take care of your saw! Its all fun and learning until the saw quits on you!!

I stopped 3-5 times each cut, for the saw to cool down, to get upright and some air myself.
Each cut took 7-10 minutes, estimated?!
Every 2 slabs 1 tank of fuel & oil.
I ain't gonna rape my saws for the sake of lumber - lumber I got sitting for decades now under my garage roof.

CSMing will not be something I will pursue , I am reducing chainsaw work as it is.
Though it might be fun to try get a board or beam out of a worthy looking log.

 

[hacskaroly]

Though it might be fun to try get a board or beam out of a worthy looking log.

Most definitely, @HumBurner has some nice looking beams he is milling. Looks like something I will want to try soon, my house is over 100 years old and can use some timber replacement in spots. I would like to mill what I can instead of buying for the ability to say "I did that"!

 

[Wilhelm]

And an oak beam would hold the tooth of time for another century and longer too.

A lot of old oak roofing in Croatia.
Every new roof gets conifer beams and boards.

 

[Al Smith]

A story if you can find it regarding chainsaw milling .Rich Dougan AKA Saw King from Myrtle Creek Oregon was involved in a project rebuilding a 100 year old bridge .If I recall the main span beams were around 100 feet long and I think Douglas fir .It took them two years just to find the trees,fell them and transport them to the job site . If I recall they were milled on site using a modified Stihl 090 .I didn't try Googling it but it's out there some place .BTW Rich is who I got the old red wood slayer of my avatar saw .,A Homelite 2100 S .

 

[HumBurner]

Most definitely, @HumBurner has some nice looking beams he is milling. Looks like something I will want to try soon, my house is over 100 years old and can use some timber replacement in spots. I would like to mill what I can instead of buying for the ability to say "I did that"!

Preciate the comment. Those photos are from a few years back at the last place I was living; Some dead-standing Doug fir, some living. I'd love to get back into milling one of these days, soon, but.....

 

[Wilhelm]

Were you running the mill straight (90*) with the log, or at an angle? It loads the saw a a hair more, but I found it easier to move the mill through the log as well a getting a better finish running it an angle, after entering the log.

Did the last slab this evening.
Oddly straight on fed nicely and left a very nice finish.
The secret seems to be:
- chain not too sharp (5th slab)
- steady even feed at ~90°

 

[Wilhelm]

Best I can/know to do.
I'll see how those slabs progress as they dry.
They are stored aired, but under roofing protected of sun and rain.
I painted the end grains with some leftover white paint for metal I had.