Winter/Summer

[Tiewire]

I have always left the winter/summer shutter on my saws in the summer setting. Am I doing this wrong, or should I be switching them? I don’t cut above 60 degrees if I don’t have to and haven’t ever had a problem with carburetor icing up. Just wondering.

 

[full chizel]

I couldn’t tell you what position mine are in. I’ve cut from 90° down to -25° and never had an issue

 

[Wood Doctor]

I have noticed that the winter position only helps a little if the temp is below zero. I hardly ever go out and cut when it's that cold. So I leave the setting for summertime when the living is easy.

 

[Tugg]

I mostly leave mine in the summer position. It does seem to make some difference in colder weather. If you are cutting and the saw sits off. Not having to choke it to start it. At least on the stihls I have. I think on some husky’s there was a little pice of plastic that slid open and closed.

 

[big_eddy]

My Husky wears its boot below minus 5c, and I put the plug back in the carb/cylinder wall above 5c. I have no idea why Husky went away from the slider that my older 50 has - The plastic plug is a pita and I worry about losing it over the winter.

I cut down to about -20c. I have not noticed icing either way, but below minus 10c the saw sure warms up faster and runs stronger with its boot on.


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[Dub11]

You're doing it wrong!

You need to have a summer saw and a winter saw, you know one with the heats in the handle.

 

[Boomer2230]

I flip mine over, and run gas line antifreeze also.

 

[Ketchup]

On some saws I feel like the air filter gets dirtier faster in winter mode.

 

[huskihl]

The winter mode is only to help keep the carburetor from icing up. If you’re not having any problems the way it is, I’d leave it alone

 

[Funky sawman]

I have noticed that the winter position only helps a little if the temp is below zero. I hardly ever go out and cut when it's that cold. So I leave the setting for summertime when the living is easy.

I think it more depends on air/moisture content. I've had carbs freeze up so bad at 32 degrees F that the saw wouldn't idle at all. I've also cut at 20 below zero F and dry out with no issues.

 

[Wilhelm]

I run my saws below freezing point, I never switch the shutters to winter and none of my saws ever showed any issues.

If You get freezing issues, switch the shutter to winter - if not, don't.

 

[tek9tim]

I think it more depends on air/moisture content. I've had carbs freeze up so bad at 32 degrees F that the saw wouldn't idle at all. I've also cut at 20 below zero F and dry out with no issues.

That's the gospel right there. Bitter cold air can't hold as much moisture, thus icing isn't as much of an issue. But 32 degrees air temp when the dew point is 35 degrees? That'll cause some icing.

Icing can occur when the air temperature is a little above freezing as well, due to the drop in temperature that occurs just on the back side of the venturi in the carb where the pressure drops.

Bottom line: if you aren't icing up, don't worry about it.

 

[jakethesnake]

I posted a picture here once. The sap was freezing out of the notch I cut in the tree. It was cold. Cold. Yeah it was that cold. Saws ran fine. I don’t switch em.
I’m not sure if -30 with no wind would be different ?

it was 2-3 degrees with a decent wind. So no I don’t move them. That picture is on this forum somewhere. It was cold

 

[big_eddy]

I was having trouble the other day. Minus 20 something and blowing snow.I would cut a bit, then stack blocks .... Every time I went to restart the saw, the chain was frozen to the bar. Warm bar would melt the snow and it would get in the groove and freeze during the 5 mins the saw was down.
I was careful not to put the saw down with the bar in snow, but it still kept happening. Was a royal pita.


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[jakethesnake]

Think I would’ve went home

 

[Tiewire]

Thanks for the replies. I think I will leave them in summer mode as that way I won’t ever forget if I do any cutting in warm weather.