Thats the sad part. 2 of the 4 hang out in there when I am in there. You know the saying.
Did you try it using a small impact driver? The added chatter might be enough to free up a little bitWell it worked it could use some more modifying but worked pretty good for my first attempt at build one of these View attachment 125780
Maybe if it was built out of a different kind of steel or something. The fingers would try to bend if I put to much pressure on them.
Did you try it using a small impact driver? The added chatter might be enough to free up a little bit
Did you try the rwj?View attachment 125784 View attachment 125782That’s a wj71 from a 394xp in there. Borrowed a top plate from a rwj xtorq carb to convert it to top impulse. Took some work but it all fits. It’s a beat up work saw with a am topend. I did some modding to it. We’ll see how it runs with this setup vs stock carb.
Yeah, on a ported 385 and a 395 one time, it ran ok but more fussy to tune than the stock carb. Didn’t notice a whole lot of difference but I didn’t time the cuts between the two. Im guessing the 394 carb should supply the most fuel.Did you try the rwj?
I guess I haven't seen as much improvement using them on a stock saw. They do seem to help once ported.I’m not at the level of some of you guys just experimenting for sure
I bet on a ported 372 they make a good differenceI guess I haven't seen as much improvement using them on a stock saw. They do seem to help once ported.
It is a little weird having the H screw out 2.5 - 3 turns.
You just need heat. A puller is convienient, but heating a case up t0 325/350 after removing the pins and bolts is really all you need. Then wack the crank with a piece of wood/brass/nylon hammer and the case will literally fall apart.Anyone have a husky case splitter or another tool I can use to split a dolmar case? Im hoping to not have to buy one.
ETA: I HAVE ONE ON THE WAY
I guess I haven't seen as much improvement using them on a stock saw. They do seem to help once ported.
It is a little weird having the H screw out 2.5 - 3 turns.
You just need heat. A puller is convienient, but heating a case up t0 325/350 after removing the pins and bolts is really all you need. Then wack the crank with a piece of wood/brass/nylon hammer and the case will literally fall apart.
Then a 2 jaw or bearing puller will remove the bearings from the crank.
That is one place where I probably would also use the stronger stuff .............. but only if its thinned like you're doingWhen I thin shafts on a carb I use red on the shutter screw. That’s the only one.
Only 1 or 2 threads left normally
That MUST be one heavy chainsaw, cast iron flywheel and all ......... valves for a 4 stroke, you sure that aint for something other than a chainsaw ?Honda chainsaw. Needed a new connecting rod, governor gear and adjusted. Ugly outside, clean inside.View attachment 125809