High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

Lee H

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There is no real model Marshy. It's just a 101B kart motor. I used a 797 oil tank
so i'd have oil and the bar mount. 797 full wrap and rear handle. I wanted the
left hand start so I used the original 101B fan housing and recoil. Using a 125
clutch assembly and clutch cover but I may have to ditch that as it can't clear the
chips fast enough. That's what happened when it bound up in that log.
To me it's just a full custom kart 101B chainsaw.
 

Lee H

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It did that a few times. I also think that running the 10 pin with a stock
tail on the bar may not help. Gives more room for the chips to get in the
bar groove when the chain enters the bar coming off the clutch.
 

sawfun

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Lee, a while back there was a thread on what 101 saw to build next and the Mac 15 seemed to win that poll, but a 101 Mac 940 would be extremely unique.
 

Lee H

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The problem with the Mac 15 is it's uses a non super series motor. Not sure if a 101 would go in
without much work. A 91 or 92 would be a better choice but you wouldn't have the displacement
of a 101.
I have thought of a 101 in a 940 two man saw. It would be a hoot to do and fun to see how it
would actually perform.
 

PogoInTheWoods

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After some delays I finally got the PM8200 back together with the refurb'd piston. It fired up after a little coaxing (too much, actually) and seemed happy to be alive again. I flooded it badly by choking and priming at first, but after a bunch o' pulls without a plug, then putting a fresh one in she fired right up. Yay! Looks pretty sharp with the NOS bargain bar from Ebay, too....IMHO.

0505171352_resized.jpg
When I initially put the short block together for a vac/pressure test it seemed like the compression was suffering quite a bit..., likely due to the amount of cleaning needed to get the rings anywhere close to being usable again. Well, they weren't. Luckily I still had the old rings from my SP81 that I was originally concerned about due to what I considered excessive end gap. Turns out they still have some life left and push some decent compression so far. Not quite up to par with my PM800, but pretty close for not being run in yet. Hafta wait and see how everything holds up after some duty cycles. May throw the compression gauge on it just because, but have no idea what normal is for the Q port saws. All I do know is the new rings in the SP81 are giving me crazy compression and I can barely pull it over without using the decomp. Now that is gonna be a wicked saw after I sort out a minor fuel delivery issue.

So the 8200 is a runner and an insane oiler, too. Is there any rule of thumb for adjusting the auto oilers for a given bar length? I'm running a 24 on it and it could easily oil a 36 (with some to spare) as it is now. Very messy and serious overkill currently.

Also ended up with a coupla spare parts after everything else was back together. I'm thinking they're spacers for the cylinder cover after looking over the IPL. Anyone else care to take a guess?

0505171430_resized.jpg
Thanks again to Al for the lapping paper and some extra encouragement on the side. I have a decent sized ash needing attention as a shakedown job for the saw..., if it ever stops raining.

 

fossil

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After some delays I finally got the PM8200 back together with the refurb'd piston. It fired up after a little coaxing (too much, actually) and seemed happy to be alive again. I flooded it badly by choking and priming at first, but after a bunch o' pulls without a plug, then putting a fresh one in she fired right up. Yay! Looks pretty sharp with the NOS bargain bar from Ebay, too....IMHO.

When I initially put the short block together for a vac/pressure test it seemed like the compression was suffering quite a bit..., likely due to the amount of cleaning needed to get the rings anywhere close to being usable again. Well, they weren't. Luckily I still had the old rings from my SP81 that I was originally concerned about due to what I considered excessive end gap. Turns out they still have some life left and push some decent compression so far. Not quite up to par with my PM800, but pretty close for not being run in yet. Hafta wait and see how everything holds up after some duty cycles. May throw the compression gauge on it just because, but have no idea what normal is for the Q port saws. All I do know is the new rings in the SP81 are giving me crazy compression and I can barely pull it over without using the decomp. Now that is gonna be a wicked saw after I sort out a minor fuel delivery issue.

So the 8200 is a runner and an insane oiler, too. Is there any rule of thumb for adjusting the auto oilers for a given bar length? I'm running a 24 on it and it could easily oil a 36 (with some to spare) as it is now. Very messy and serious overkill currently.

Also ended up with a coupla spare parts after everything else was back together. I'm thinking they're spacers for the cylinder cover after looking over the IPL. Anyone else care to take a guess?

Thanks again to Al for the lapping paper and some extra encouragement on the side. I have a decent sized ash needing attention as a shakedown job for the saw..., if it ever stops raining.


I think the one on the left might be a muffler spacer if it's steel. The one on the right is to be dropped through the spark plug hole to tune up the piston.

Looks really nice Poge.
 

Al Smith

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I'm not certain but I'd think on a Q port you can't pull it over fast enough to get a true compression reading .At cranking speed I'm about certain that little Q port would bleed off too much comp .Conversely at running speed it likely wouldn't have that much effect .
Probably the best thing for that saw is set it a tad rich and run the dawg chit out of it in some larger wood to put it under full power to seat the rings .I don't know how anybody else does it but I don't baby them on a run in,come or bleed .Never blew on up yet and I've done more than several .
 

Steve

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I'm with Al. Run the crap out of it. Load is what seats the rings. Not just run time.
 

PogoInTheWoods

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I'm with both of ya. It's drying out a little and I should be able to get after that ash in a day or so. Need to get the oiler sorted out first. Any suggestions for troubleshooting it? I'm thinking the ball valve is stuck open at this point. What you see in the pic is just from doing some 'L' needle adjusting a few minutes earlier. That's a lotta oil layin' there.

0506171803_resized.jpg
 

Steve

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Open up the oil tank cover and screw IN the bolt on the bottom of the oiler. That will limit the stroke. Give it a half turn with that much excess oil and recheck.
 

PogoInTheWoods

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Will tear into it. I read the maintenance and adjustment stuff in the shop manual and it's pretty straightforward..., provided the components are actually all there and the 'O' ring isn't deformed or thrashed. Just can't recall if I need to pull the tank to service the pump itself on this saw. Some you don't depending on the pump.
 

Steve

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Yes on the manual pump. No on the auto pump. The auto pump should be held in by a single cap screw and the stainless clip on the back side.
 

PogoInTheWoods

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Yep. I mis-read the section. Will jump into it tomorrow. Thx.
 

thedude74

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Some very nice saws guys. I have a soft spot for thos macs. Worked in the Lake Havasu McCulloch plant die cast dept back in 91. 3Rd graveyard shift. Mostly made alum. cyl and cases. Worked a couple nights on the mag cast machines...

About two weeks into it got a $0.30 an hour raise. The third week...boss came down to the floor...said uh...hate to do this....your a great worker....but We have to let you go. your only 17! We cant insure you! Told me to come back in 5 months when I turned 18. Never went back....id rather smash my own junk with a ball peen hammer than work in a factory!!! Some folks can work in a factory and make the same parrs day after day, year after year...Im not one of em.

I would like to own a couple big muscle pro macs though....no peening required.
 

Al Smith

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You have to remember on McCulloch impulse oilers the fact they pump oil as long as the engine is running .Unlike like gear driven that only pump when the chain moves .One thing about it you aren't going to starve the bar and chain of oil .As far as bar length the longest I have is 32" and they have no problem oiling those . The only draw back to in the tank pumps is you have to remove the front of the tank to adjust the pump .
 
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