MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

[Steve]

I thought I had 1 bad coil .After it had sat inside for a while it revived itself .I gave it a good dousing with Glyptol and as far as I know is still okay .Can't remember which saw or even if I still have it .I have had solid state coils go on the blink .
If I recall the solid state coils were all on "cinder blocks " and I found a guy on flea bay claiming he had a thousand of them at 10 bucks a pop .Like a dummy I only bought 5 or 6 ,should have bought 20 .One of them went on a PM 610 I bought for my son and it was flawless .Looks like it had never been ran ,no sparky .One year I must have bought and sold 8-10 Pm 610's .

All the late 10 series had them. Pm700, PM10-10, 10-10s, PM800 805 850, and so on. Same coil as a mcbrick just shorter plug lead.

 

[jacob j.]

I thought I had 1 bad coil .After it had sat inside for a while it revived itself .I gave it a good dousing with Glyptol and as far as I know is still okay .Can't remember which saw or even if I still have it .I have had solid state coils go on the blink .
If I recall the solid state coils were all on "cinder blocks " and I found a guy on flea bay claiming he had a thousand of them at 10 bucks a pop .Like a dummy I only bought 5 or 6 ,should have bought 20 .One of them went on a PM 610 I bought for my son and it was flawless .Looks like it had never been ran ,no sparky .One year I must have bought and sold 8-10 Pm 610's .

My dad converted one of those coils to run on a 125. It makes a runner but the timing is way advanced, right on the edge of being too advanced.

 

[p61 western]

My dad converted one of those coils to run on a 125. It makes a runner but the timing is way advanced, right on the edge of being too advanced.

If you need a couple 610 coils, I know a guy.

 

[merc_man]

Whats a normal compression for a mac 1-41. Usually 130 is a little low in my books. Mine is reading 120 cold engine WOT. But it seems to run pretty good.

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[Steve]

Whats a normal compression for a mac 1-41. Usually 130 is a little low in my books. Mine is reading 120 cold engine WOT. But it seems to run pretty good.

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That sounds about right for a 80cc front tank. They are not compression monsters.

 

[merc_man]

That sounds about right for a 80cc front tank. They are not compression monsters.

Thanks. Was worried about the old girl lol.

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[jacob j.]

That sounds about right for a 80cc front tank. They are not compression monsters.

Thanks. Was worried about the old girl lol.

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Yeah they have huge combustion chambers. They were intended to be a farm and ranch saw and we all know how hard farmers are on things...

 

[Al Smith]

right on the edge of being too advanced.

Now that's one saw if it came back on you it could hurt you .

 

[Dream]

Now that's one saw if it came back on you it could hurt you .

Yep, dont want a 125 "walking the rope". That would be like playing chicken with a freight train. If she fired off backwards, youd most likely never know what hit you.

So I got by Oreilly auto parts like Steve told me to. Sure "nuff, they had some high temp gasket material. 15 bucks later I have a tiny piece cut and a nice exhaust gasket fitted. Made meself a new " shoulder bolt" out of some steel fuel line and a 10-24 screw I had to replace the missing muffler bolt.
Muffler situation is good, so I mixed up a gallon of gas at 32:1. Poured it in, set the throttle, pushed the decomp, pulled the choke out, and gave her a rip. Second pull she popped! Pushed the choke in and gave her another drop. Weak burble, then no joy. Pulled the air filter cover. Shes leaking where someone put a replacement fuel line in. Not a good seal between the tank line and the piece they had from the carb. That will have to be replaced, and it looks like the tank gasket is leaking somewhat. Probably dry rotted. I'm not at all surprised, considering its overall condition. I'll get the tank and fuel line sorted out, and probably go ahead and send the carb to the spa and put a new kit in. I'm ecstatic that it turns over and fires at all considering where I got it from. This is going to be a keeper for me. Pretty much like any poor neglected junk that I drag home. It showed me that it wanted to run by firing on choke. No prime down the throat or through the plug hole. It wants to breath on its own. I can make that happen.

 

[Steve]

Once you get it sorted i have the correct muffler bolts and such. Make a list!

 

[heimannm]

Sometimes leaving the tank fill with fuel will cause the cork gasket to swell up and re-seal the tank all by itself.

Some Teflon tape around the fuel line where it passes through the tank will insure a good seal there as well.

Mark

 

[Dream]

I have it sitting far enough away from the divider wall between the garage and the lean-to that none of the gas fumes should cause a problem with the wood stove I have over here. Gonna just let it sit and do what it needs to do overnight.
Tomorrow I will check it out.
If its still leaking around the tank gasket, I will fill it slightly over half way with brake fluid. Brake fuid is a liquid that I use sometimes to condition old dry rubber. It seems to help soften and swell rubber parts. It May detiorate soft, rotten rubber, and anything that is not gasoline resistant, but it has saved me in the past by bringing back parts that are gasoline resistant.
Biggest issue I have right now is the difference between the fuel line size coming from the tank and the "giant" fuel inlet fitting on the Tilly carb.
I'm sure the fuel line was replaced at some point. The "adapter" that someone apparently made is the problem. It looks like they took a piece of fuel line that they could just barely heat and stretch over the fuel inlet and then make it shrink over a barb connector to the smaller fuel line. I would like to be able to save the existing fuel line if possible, but it seems I need a barb to adapt from the carb inlet fuel line size to the tank fuel line size. Just guessing maybe 1/4" carb inlet and 1/8" tank line.

 

[Steve]

I have it sitting far enough away from the divider wall between the garage and the lean-to that none of the gas fumes should cause a problem with the wood stove I have over here. Gonna just let it sit and do what it needs to do overnight.
Tomorrow I will check it out.
If its still leaking around the tank gasket, I will fill it slightly over half way with brake fluid. Brake fuid is a liquid that I use sometimes to condition old dry rubber. It seems to help soften and swell rubber parts. It May detiorate soft, rotten rubber, and anything that is not gasoline resistant, but it has saved me in the past by bringing back parts that are gasoline resistant.
Biggest issue I have right now is the difference between the fuel line size coming from the tank and the "giant" fuel inlet fitting on the Tilly carb.
I'm sure the fuel line was replaced at some point. The "adapter" that someone apparently made is the problem. It looks like they took a piece of fuel line that they could just barely heat and stretch over the fuel inlet and then make it shrink over a barb connector to the smaller fuel line. I would like to be able to save the existing fuel line if possible, but it seems I need a barb to adapt from the carb inlet fuel line size to the tank fuel line size. Just guessing maybe 1/4" carb inlet and 1/8" tank line.

DO NOT put brake fluid in the fuel tank. The gasket is cork, not rubber. The brake fluid will also eat all the paint off the saw. That mac yellow does not hold up well to harsh cleaners either.


Get us a pic of fuel line you got going on. Sounds real messed up. You would be best off replacing it with the proper molded line.

 

[Dream]

Yep. Forgot about the paint in there. Could try to pull the fuel line and recondition it.
Ill get a pic of it later.

 

[Dream]

So it looks like the tank gasket has stopped leaking, or maybe its just because I have the cap loose to keep it from coming out of the fuel line.
Looks like someone put some other kind of sealer around the tank gasket.
Im gonna play around with it a bit before I order any parts.
You,can see the homemade adapter they made to connect to the carb. My guess is someone broke the flared part off trying to remove it from the carb, and then improvised that.

 

[Dream]

Well I improvised another fuel line adapter, and she runs. Checked compression before I started her. Getting 120. Not great, but maybe it'll improve after some running. Auto oiler works. May need to turn it down some. Good amount of oil. Will verify once I get a bar and chain on.
Probably going to need crank seals. Carb is hard to tune in. Was idling ok when first started, but loading up when warm. Idle goes way up when I flip her on her side. Seems to be building pressure in the gas tank. Whats the vent situation on these? I cant see anything in the cap.

 

[Steve]

Well I improvised another fuel line adapter, and she runs. Checked compression before I started her. Getting 120. Not great, but maybe it'll improve after some running. Auto oiler works. May need to turn it down some. Good amount of oil. Will verify once I get a bar and chain on.
Probably going to need crank seals. Carb is hard to tune in. Was idling ok when first started, but loading up when warm. Idle goes way up when I flip her on her side. Seems to be building pressure in the gas tank. Whats the vent situation on these? I cant see anything in the cap.

The cap just has a duckbill valve in it. Breathes in through the hole on top of the cap. They will build pressure when running due to heat soak from the cylinder. Remember that the handle is metal and metal transfers heat.

The tank stopped leaking because the cork swelled from the fuel. That sealer is factor to seal the airbox halves. Pick up a new fuel line once you get everything sorted.

Check the throttle shaft that it fits snug in the bore. I have had several carbs on the 10 series that the shafts where worn badly and tuning was impossible.

 

[Dream]

Well there does seem to ne a wee bit of play in the throttle shaft. I may have a good carb on the 700 carcass. I dont see a high speed adjustment on this Tilly carb.
Here is the gas cap. Has a tension spring and what I perceive to be a brass seat that the duckbill valve sits on. No sign or remnants of a duckbill valve. Also no hole through to the tank, unless the db valve has melted and clogged it up. I'll do some light probing.
According to the publication list that was thoughtfully sent by Mr. Neumann, this saw, model 600052D, as a late 7-10a built sometime between January 1976 and March 1979. That should explain the chain brake.
Anyone know what the D suffix means?
Also, if anyone has a copy of IPL #92389 that they could share, I would be most grateful. Willing to pay if need be, just remember I'm cheap.

 

[Dream]

Sorry for the autocorrect thing Mark. Didnt catch it. I meant Mr Heimann.

So the carb is in for a soak. Did have some yuck in there, so I'll eliminate that. Nervous about the possibility of an air leak. I'll probably be tearing it down enough to put some blockoff plates on and pressure/vac test it to see whats up. It Also may be burning some bar oil. That might explain the high oiler output.
The existing carb is a Tilly HS 165A.
I have a Mac branded Wally SDC37 from the 1010A with the bad P&C.
It has adjustable high speed jet. I would like to swap that on if it will work. I'll measure venturi sizes after I get the Tilly out of soak tomorrow.
Im still going to kit the Wally even of it doesnt work. Dad gave me a 1010A with a supposedly bad coil that I can use this carb on if need be.
I also found an intact fuel line on the DOA 1010A and got that swapped out to the 7-10A.
Done with pestering everyone for a bit. I'll leave you with a pic of the PM700 with the new 28" bar I scored Friday hung on it. I'm going to get a loop of skip tooth for it. I hope it pulls it ok. I was looking for a 24", but he had this one for $40. If its too much bar, I'll just have to start looking for that 850 I kinda want.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Also, if anyone has a copy of IPL #92389 that they could share, I would be most grateful.