Stihl size bars on Husky's

[semi-chissel]

Okay I don't know if this is the correct Sub forum for this question so please be merciful if I am causing a faus paux. Also know that I have used the search function on the subject and read 5 pages back.

Here is what I wanted to do. I have a Husky 374 that I want a 24 in bar for. I was thinking about getting a Sugi meant for a Stihl and a bar adapter to go with it. (In case I ever walk into a crazy deal on a Stihl). But after reading 5 pages of the subject it appears not always smooth in practice. I read where some people with some bars/adapters have no problem, some have to modify the bars by removing material from the bar stud opening, and some even had to alter the DL count on their chain making it a custom job just to get the tension correct. This sounds like a shot in the dark and a potential hassle, which I am not fond of either. So should I either option;

A) Just get the Stihl size Sugi bar and deal with any potential hiccups.

Or B) Just get a Husky Sugi bar.

Or C) Get a Dolmar 7900 from cutting edge, with a 24 inch bar so I can swap the 28 in bar on the Husky with the Dolmar 24?

I'm leaning towards C. What does the OPE Hive say on the subject?

 

[Dub11]

Get some adapters from @Homelite410 and then this is what I did to make a D025 fit were a D009 wentThe black marks on the slot are how more I had to cut and the arrows are the new adjustment holes.

 

[Dub11]

And that was a 24" Oregon bar 84dl no problems switch from husky to Stihl.

 

[Ryan Browne]

Uh, is this a trick question? Options A and B involve buying bars, and option C is to buy a new 7900... Uh, option C, duh!

 

[mdavlee]

I never drilled new adjuster holes. Just lengthened the slot

 

[semi-chissel]

Dub11,

Thanks for the refresher. I did read about the mods you had to do when I did the search, and that's what concerns me. That's pretty close to a worse case scenario for me. You didn't have to alter the number of drive links did you?

 

[Dub11]

Dub11,

Thanks for the refresher. I did read about the mods you had to do when I did the search, and that's what concerns me. That's pretty close to a worse case scenario for me. You didn't have to alter the number of drive links did you?

No chain alterations required. I just laid a D009 bar over the D025 bar and marked the slot position and added a little more for the adapter then drilled a hole at the new end of my slot then cut out with an angle grinder. Spent more time measuring than cutting.


PS I'm a total hack biggest thing I worried about was making sure I didn't throw sparks on my gas can.

 

[Dub11]

I never drilled new adjuster holes. Just lengthened the slot

Not sure why I did that I'll double check that.

And are you back home?

 

[mdavlee]

Not sure why I did that I'll double check that.

And are you back home?

I never needed the extra holes. I am

 

[Jimmy in NC]

I never needed the extra holes. I am

Mike one bar I did needed it....a Stihl wide nose I think. My GB didnt need any modification at all. Point being some do and some dont.

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[semi-chissel]

Jimmy and Dub, would the adjustment hole difference's be a reason why some people had to add a drive link to achieve enough slack to effectively mount their chain to the hybrid Stihl/Husky bar? In effect you have two choices, add a new adjustment hole or customize your chain length for each loop? That kinda makes sense...I think...

 

[Jimmy in NC]

Jimmy and Dub, would the adjustment hole difference's be a reason why some people had to add a drive link to achieve enough slack to effectively mount their chain to the hybrid Stihl/Husky bar? In effect you have two choices, add a new adjustment hole or customize your chain length for each loop? That kinda makes sense...I think...

Yes. Making a hole closer to the tip allows the tail to move towards the center line of the crank and needing a shorter loop.

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[semi-chissel]

Ahh, so if you do that it makes the effective bar length a hair (1 drive link) shorter and the length the chain travels between the bar and sprocket a hair longer. Would shorter free travel make it less likely to throw a chain? I mean if something catastrophic happened.

 

[Dub11]

Ahh, so if you do that it makes the effective bar length a hair (1 drive link) shorter and the length the chain travels between the bar and sprocket a hair longer. Would shorter free travel make it less likely to throw a chain? I mean if something catastrophic happened.

Hopefully I'll have some time this afternoon noon and I'll take some pics of my hacked up bar on my 2188 and we can see what hits and fits right.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

Ahh, so if you do that it makes the effective bar length a hair (1 drive link) shorter and the length the chain travels between the bar and sprocket a hair longer. Would shorter free travel make it less likely to throw a chain? I mean if something catastrophic happened.

I guess it could.... rarely is a chain thrown from the drive though. Exception is a big sprocket on a normal bar.

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