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Stihl 034 AV

Sawyer94

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Thanks bigmac, I probably just scrambled the information together. I just remember because I was replacing a piston on my 026 and was reading through forums.
 

Bigmac

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Thanks bigmac, I probably just scrambled the information together. I just remember because I was replacing a piston on my 026 and was reading through forums.
It is easy to do, lots of misinformation out there, and just because someone says it on the internet doesn’t mean it’s true!!!! Lol always good to do more research!
 

drf256

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The 46mm jugs are plentiful and available so cheaply, I’m not sure I’d even bother trying to save that one.

No one wants the 46mm version since the 48mm will be more powerful.

If you choose to go 48mm, the 034S jug will be a bolt on. The 036 jug with require you to shorten the airdam under the front of the top cover.

Look for a 48mm version in the Buy and sell here, OEM. You might even find an 034S jug and someone to do a bit of machining for you.

An 034 Super cylinder with a .005 band cleanup and a popup piston is very close to a fully ported saw.
 

Sawyer94

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Update on the jug. I started to do a little sanding on the transfer and so far after a couple hours it looks like it will clean up. I haven't even treated it will the acid yet so I hope that'll get the rest.

I'm wondering if I can't get all the transfer off, if it is still usable. I guess I'm asking what the exceptions are or how much is allowed to still be present. Majority of the transfer has came off under the exhaust port but above the port has some left. I thought that the compression part of the cylinder is the most important and that the combustion chamber is not as important. I still would like to get all of it off but I'm looking for worst case scenario.

Thanks,
Brock.
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Sawyer94

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Pictures aren't the greatest quality hope you guys are able to see what's going on.
 

Sawyer94

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Another tip for what it's worth .In addition to light abrasives "Easy off" oven cleaner works to a degree .Smells like a bucket of fermented skunk rectums but gets the job done .
Thanks I'll check that out and possibly might even have some already.
All transfer should be removed.

Any “scoring” through the plating isn’t the end of the world depending on location, depth, amount, etc.
Okay so it appears to be just discoloration but I'm sure it's microscopic aluminum transfer. Feels smooth to the touch but I don't think that means anything. I'll try to get the rest of the markings off. There are nothing that I can catch my nail on but I can see it. Also when you talk about location was I correct to assume that the compression part of the stroke is the most important part? And that the combustion chamber part is not as important or is that false? I understand you still want the rings to seal and seat properly I'm just wondering if where the rings never contact is such a big deal?
 

MustangMike

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You can remove all of the transfer w/o acid, just keep sanding. The plating on the cylinder is many times harder than the alum transfer.

Just be careful not to ruin any ports. About the only time you loose a cylinder is when it is gouged (ingested metal).

I'm referring to Stihl OEM cylinders, others may be less worthy. It can happen, but it is rare for a cylinder to wear through the plating.
 

trooney

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Like Al said, I'd personally put an 034S or an 036 cylinder on it then take off the airdam. Its real easy to do. That way you'll have a light weight saw with plenty of power. If you opt to stay with the 034 then thats still a good choice. Its really dependant on what you want and what your needs are. I think I've got a couple of 034 cylinders if that one doesnt clean up all the way.
 

Sawyer94

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You can remove all of the transfer w/o acid, just keep sanding. The plating on the cylinder is many times harder than the alum transfer.

Just be careful not to ruin any ports. About the only time you loose a cylinder is when it is gouged (ingested metal).

I'm referring to Stihl OEM cylinders, others may be less worthy. It can happen, but it is rare for a cylinder to wear through the plating.
Thanks I appreciate that I've watched masterminds videos before and he said the plating is a lot harder but I mean he's done it 1000s of times and knows and I haven't and dont. I'll just keep at it and should be good I hope. And yeah from my experiences oem stihl mahle and KS are great quality.

On another note, I picked up a junk yard stihl something haven't yet identified it, I assume it's 051 or the same chassis, but that cylinders plating was just flaking off, it didn't make sense to me. It was lean seized or straight gassed but it was coming off like paint not scratched off and I didn't even touch it. I'll post a pic here if anyone can help identify the model and even identify the reason that caused this.
 

Sawyer94

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Like Al said, I'd personally put an 034S or an 036 cylinder on it then take off the airdam. Its real easy to do. That way you'll have a light weight saw with plenty of power. If you opt to stay with the 034 then thats still a good choice. Its really dependant on what you want and what your needs are. I think I've got a couple of 034 cylinders if that one doesnt clean up all the way.
That's really what I'm debating. After reading all the comments and considering the potential increase in power, it just seems kind of naive to not throw a 036 top end on the saw. If I can find a good deal on a 036 jug I will do that but the saw isn't the prettiest saw so I don't want to put a bunch of money into it, even tho I only 50 bucks for it. I'll take some time to think it through as I work on finishing this jug and see what I feel is right.
 

MustangMike

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I think it is like the 064/066 debate. 066 is larger, and can be made to run stronger, but the older 064 jugs generally had better porting from the factory, so if you are not going to port it, they are not a bad choice.
 

Wood Doctor

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Today as an 036 my upgraded 034 will darn near run even with my MS361:
Stihl 036-2.JPGI really like this saw. The original owner took it apart and then threw it into a box. The engine was shot along with several other problems. I added the outer bumper spike and replaced a host of other parts. Quite a challenge, but it was worth it to get it going again. The son of the original owner has told me several times that he wished he still had it on board.
 

Sawyer94

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I think it is like the 064/066 debate. 066 is larger, and can be made to run stronger, but the older 064 jugs generally had better porting from the factory, so if you are not going to port it, they are not a bad choice.
Today as an 036 my upgraded 034 will darn near run even with my MS361:
View attachment 133174I really like this saw. The original owner took it apart and then threw it into a box. The engine was shot along with several other problems. I added the outer bumper spike and replaced a host of other parts. Quite a challenge, but it was worth it to get it going again. The son of the original owner has told me several times that he wished he still had it on board.
Nice saw you got there wood doctor. I really purchased this saw because I saw a good price and because it fit the 50 to 70cc gap in my stable but seeing as how it's really a 56cc saw it doesn't really fit that gap well. I will probably hold out for a good oem top end and maybe just let this one go to someone else.
 

Bigmac

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That looks a lot like an o75/76 had the same numbers on the cylinder as my o76 jug, did the case have studs all the way through the cylinder? 58 mm bore?
 

Sawyer94

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That looks a lot like an o75/76 had the same numbers on the cylinder as my o76 jug, did the case have studs all the way through the cylinder? 58 mm bore?
Yes, it has the studs all the way through and a nut on top of the cylinder. All the covers are missing besides the starter cover.
 

Bigmac

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Yes, it has the studs all the way through and a nut on top of the cylinder. All the covers are missing besides the starter cover.
Should be an 075/76 then, Your looking for 58mm bore, should also have a manual Oiler too, but I am no expert!! I have an o76 thou
 
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