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RAZZORSHARP Chains...anybody ever use these guys?

Hinerman

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I cannot fathom boxing up my chains @ $9 each and Mailing them to Ohio to get sharpened.
Lunacy.

Because you and I can sharpen a chain. Most people cannot, including a friend of mine who has a tree service. Most places charge $9 or more to sharpen a chain, and they are not good at it either. I took a chain to our Stihl dealer here and it came back with all blue cutters. The Franzen sharpeners are the best there are and can be set up to sharpen anyway you want it.

For some people, {such as Tree services with a lot of money and not a lot of time (or skill), a person that does very little cutting, or a person that cannot sharpen a chain at all} Razorsharp is a very good option.

Keep in mind, Razorsharp cleans, deburs, does the rakers, and sharpens the cutter. NOBODY does that around here for any price.
 

CrystalRiver1

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Because you and I can sharpen a chain. Most people cannot, including a friend of mine who has a tree service. Most places charge $9 or more to sharpen a chain, and they are not good at it either. I took a chain to our Stihl dealer here and it came back with all blue cutters. The Franzen sharpeners are the best there are and can be set up to sharpen anyway you want it.

For some people, {such as Tree services with a lot of money and not a lot of time (or skill), a person that does very little cutting, or a person that cannot sharpen a chain at all} Razorsharp is a very good option.

Keep in mind, Razorsharp cleans, deburs, does the rakers, and sharpens the cutter. NOBODY does that around here for any price.
Great summation.
All services are "need based"...some have a need for it and others don't.
 

Nutball

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I wonder how well it would even up a really out of whack chain, like one that has been severely unevenly sharpened and rocked. Would it make them all nice and even? I figure someone still has to watch the process to make sure it sharpens past the rock damage.

I don't know anything about powered sharpeners, but does it match each tooth or match each depth gauge to each tooth individually? I assume it might use fluid or something to keep the cutters cool so they don't harden.

Seems like they might be worth it every once in a while. I know I can hardly stand to hand sharpen a 20" full comp, so I tend to run full skip on 20" and larger.
 

Wilhelm

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Where do you get that chain?
Custom made for me by Jason @jmester , and Nate @fordf150 who supplied the EXL chains and took care of shipping. :)
Thank You so much guys!

It took two 72DL loops broken apart and spun back together to make this 72DL Full House EXL loop.
IMG_0817.JPG

It is a play/fun chain and conversation starter.
In my area people are left speechless when I say I have a 72 tooth chain.
They usually don't know what they are looking at when I hand them this 72DL/72 tooth loop.
The facial expressions are priceless. :D

Yes, I used the chain a bit - it has chip clearing issues.
The loop is still on the factory grind, at one point I will give it my own spin and try to counteract the chip clearing issue. :)
 

Nutball

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Otherwise you'd have to use 1/4 .050 with a hard nose bar. Could you imagining having to sharpen a full house 1/4 36"? Would be some slow cutting too.
 

Evansaw

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Perspective:
I’ll take my swingarm over it every single time

And on semi chisel, I’ll take my file or 511a over it


If I did chains for income, I’d probably have a little different perspective


Well i always hand file up to 36inch. I have no need for bigger bars anyway.

Ofcourse there are options and other trusted ways for the same result which is no other than a sharp chain

However this machine is the best auto sharpener bar none. And nothing can’t change it.
 

Hinerman

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I wonder how well it would even up a really out of whack chain, like one that has been severely unevenly sharpened and rocked. Would it make them all nice and even? I figure someone still has to watch the process to make sure it sharpens past the rock damage.

I don't know anything about powered sharpeners, but does it match each tooth or match each depth gauge to each tooth individually? I assume it might use fluid or something to keep the cutters cool so they don't harden.

Seems like they might be worth it every once in a while. I know I can hardly stand to hand sharpen a 20" full comp, so I tend to run full skip on 20" and larger.

I have seen the Franzen sharpen. All cutters are the exact same length. All rakers are the exact same depth. It keeps taking a little off at a time until they are the same.

On a severely rocked chain, I do not know if it knows when to stop sharpening to get the corner correct. The operator may have to make it take more tooth, but I am not sure.
 

Hinerman

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Perspective:
I’ll take my swingarm over it every single time

And on semi chisel, I’ll take my file or 511a over it


If I did chains for income, I’d probably have a little different perspective

I have a 511a and it is horrible imo. Very inconsistent from R to L. I have to reset the top plate angle and the stop from side to side. It takes more side plate from one side than the other. No wonder somebody gave it to me free.
 
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