High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

Part One: The Exhaust Port

XP_Slinger

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Hey Slinger. I'm like a blind man in an orgy right now. I appreciate the help. You're getting me to think about stuff I wasn't previously.

I think I'm going to try what Randy said re: look at that the saw designer did and go from there, so I think I'm going to try to retain the shape/ratio while creeping up to the timing.

I think I have a plan and am just delaying at this point. Worst case is I screw up the saw and send it to a professional!
Sounds like a good plan man. You don’t need to hog everything out to make a saw run better. Simple things go a long way and it’s always a good decision to follow Randy’s advice.
 

Terry Syd

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Tapered ex was big with snowmobile guys, I like the concept and it's better for ring wear I think

Definitely easier on the rings plus the top of the exhaust port. If you need a bit better blow down, IMO the best way is to just tweak the top of the piston crown to curve it with the top of the exhaust port.

You have the same exhaust port timing, but you have a big increase in the time/area of the port. When the port cracks, it is a bigger opening than a flat roof port. The shortest line between two points is a straight line. With the curvature of the piston crown to the roof of the port, when the port cracks open, the SIZE of the port INCREASES as the curvature of the port opening is LONGER than that of a straight line.

A pain in the azz to dial in, but I'm a fan of the mod.
 
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Deets066

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Definitely easier on the rings plus the top of the exhaust port. If you need a bit better blow down, IMO the best way is to just tweak the top of the piston crown to curve it with the top of the exhaust port.

You have the same exhaust port timing, but you have a big increase in the time/area of the port. When the port cracks, it is a bigger opening than a flat roof port. The shortest line between two points is a straight line. With the curvature of the piston crown to the roof of the port, when the port cracks open, the SIZE of the port INCREASES as the curvature of the port opening is LONGER than that of a straight line.

A pain in the azz to dial in, but I'm a fan of the mod.
I’ve heard of people doing that. Never tried it myself. I definitely see the gain though
 

Fairways_and_Greens

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Definitely easier on the rings plus the top of the exhaust port. If you need a bit better blow down, IMO the best way is to just tweak the top of the piston crown to curve it with the top of the exhaust port.

You have the same exhaust port timing, but you have a big increase in the time/area of the port. When the port cracks, it is a bigger opening than a flat roof port. The shortest line between two points is a straight line. With the curvature of the piston crown to the roof of the port, when the port cracks open, the SIZE of the port INCREASES as the curvature of the port opening is LONGER than that of a straight line.

A pain in the azz to dial in, but I'm a fan of the mod.
I'm trying to conceptualize that... Do you have a picture to help us noobs?
 

Leafy

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Arch the top of the port, put the piston to where it's just starting to crack open, trace the top of the port onto the piston, trim the piston down to that line.
 

MustangMike

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First … I'm no expert, I'm a newbe, but I'll add my 2 cents cause what I have been doing seems to work for me.

I generally view the intake and exhaust differently because exhaust gasses are under much great pressure, with combustion expanding them by approximately ten fold. I also think that makes it important to maintain some reverse funnel shape for the exhaust port.

As a result, I try to make the exhaust as wide as the skirt will safely allow, try to flatten to top (not completely, don't want to hang a ring), but eliminate any excessive arch. This often makes it a little wider on the inside than on the outside, but I don't widen it the full depth, the start is most important on the exhaust and that reverse funnel function. So, I often shape it a bit like a trapezoid, being a little wider on the top.

I first make sure the outside it at least as wide as the gasket, then generally open it a bit more, and the gasket and muffler. I also don't spend time mirror polishing the exhaust port (but I do try to get it as smooth as possible). I think that is more for race saws than working saws.

Right or wrong, that is how I do it, and it seems to work in the saws I've been porting.
 

Terry Syd

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I’m going to try it on my next build depending on how much room there is above the ring land.

If your engine already has enough blowdown, you're going to do a lot of work for nothing. I tried it on a couple of racing bike engines that already had good blowdown and it didn't change anything. However, when the engine needs it, the mod is worth about 2 extra degrees of blowdown - the more curvature of the port roof, the more effect it has.

I shine a bright light through the sparkplug hole and then keep nipping the edge of the piston crown until the entire port cracks open at the same moment.
 

Moparmyway

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If your engine already has enough blowdown, you're going to do a lot of work for nothing. I tried it on a couple of racing bike engines that already had good blowdown and it didn't change anything. However, when the engine needs it, the mod is worth about 2 extra degrees of blowdown - the more curvature of the port roof, the more effect it has.

I shine a bright light through the sparkplug hole and then keep nipping the edge of the piston crown until the entire port cracks open at the same moment.

This is what makes power

I'll trim the port to match the piston, instead of trimming the piston to match the port
 

Deets066

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I'll trim the port to match the piston, instead of trimming the piston to match the port
Typically what is done, but too flat just doesn’t last when it’s wide.
If the port is arched and so is the piston, it effectively would flow more when it opens than a flat one
 
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