High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

Need an Autotune Update

Atimm693

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Sent PMs to two different members that are dealers and haven't gotten a reply.

I would like to send off the carb from my 2014 model Jred 2252 for a reflash and update.

Been having issues with it that I've never had before, terribly hard to start, needed to run on full choke for a few seconds before it would take any throttle, and would bog. Hot start wasn't much better.

I pressure tested the saw and did not find anything. It far exceeds Husqvarna's maximum leakage specs.

Of course I will pay for shipping and your time. The dealer that I bought the saw from is Amish, and the only other one doesn't have the software, they only have someone that comes by now and then with the equipment.
 

Atimm693

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got to love "dealers" that cant support machinery that they can "sell"...not sure what the Amish call that but here in NJ we call it "bullchittery"...

The Amish don't really bother me too much, they're doing what they can to keep their dealership open.

The other dealer is exactly that, *B-S..... Bunch of pricks that I'd rather not give money to, even if they did have the software.

Sometimes SW MO feels like a third world. Still can't get good internet and I'm 3 miles from town, and no Autotune service for miles.
 

Sprinter

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Sent PMs to two different members that are dealers and haven't gotten a reply.

I would like to send off the carb from my 2014 model Jred 2252 for a reflash and update.

Been having issues with it that I've never had before, terribly hard to start, needed to run on full choke for a few seconds before it would take any throttle, and would bog. Hot start wasn't much better.

I pressure tested the saw and did not find anything. It far exceeds Husqvarna's maximum leakage specs.

Of course I will pay for shipping and your time. The dealer that I bought the saw from is Amish, and the only other one doesn't have the software, they only have someone that comes by now and then with the equipment.
I've been told be 2 different dealers that they cannot update a carb without the saw.
Now I'm starting to think I'm getting the run around. Or maybe they just don't know how.
 

Atimm693

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I've been told be 2 different dealers that they cannot update a carb without the saw.
Now I'm starting to think I'm getting the run around. Or maybe they just don't know how.

Think I saw a video featurning @Spike60 that mentioned you only need the carb and the numbers off the coil, could be wrong though.

I did send him a PM yesterday, but I understand he may be busy, haven't heard back yet.
 

Sprinter

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Think I saw a video featurning @Spike60 that mentioned you only need the carb and the numbers off the coil, could be wrong though.

I did send him a PM yesterday, but I understand he may be busy, haven't heard back yet.
That's pretty much how I understood it!
 

Johnmn

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Think I saw a video featurning @Spike60 that mentioned you only need the carb and the numbers off the coil, could be wrong though.

I did send him a PM yesterday, but I understand he may be busy, haven't heard back yet.
He will get back to you just give him a little time.
 

Spike60

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Yup, insane busy and I'm hardly a member of today's connected world either. :) Sorry.

No need to have the carb on the saw to plug it in. Just need to know which coil is in the saw. Keep in mind that updates and resets are two different things. Updates are for changes to the firmware. Resets are for the fuel settings and can still be needed on saws with up to date carbs. Your 2252 from 2014 certainly has some updates waiting for it. Could also need a new carb. Yours is really running like crap from your description. Shipping it back and forth is a good idea if it only needs an update/reset, but a wasted effort if the carb needs to be replaced. So, in those cases shipping the whole saw, while more expensive, allows one to put the carb back on the saw to determine if the reset solved the problem.

Would offer to help, but I'm way too busy to get involved with shipped in work. Has taken me 35 minutes just to write this brief message with customers coming in or calling. :)
 

Atimm693

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Yup, insane busy and I'm hardly a member of today's connected world either. :) Sorry.

No need to have the carb on the saw to plug it in. Just need to know which coil is in the saw. Keep in mind that updates and resets are two different things. Updates are for changes to the firmware. Resets are for the fuel settings and can still be needed on saws with up to date carbs. Your 2252 from 2014 certainly has some updates waiting for it. Could also need a new carb. Yours is really running like crap from your description. Shipping it back and forth is a good idea if it only needs an update/reset, but a wasted effort if the carb needs to be replaced. So, in those cases shipping the whole saw, while more expensive, allows one to put the carb back on the saw to determine if the reset solved the problem.

Would offer to help, but I'm way too busy to get involved with shipped in work. Has taken me 35 minutes just to write this brief message with customers coming in or calling. :)

Thanks for the insight, I understand.

I sent a PM to @backhoelover as well, I've seen him mention that he has the software as well.

Any way to know if the carb is bad other than trial and error? Are they worth putting a kit in?
 

Atimm693

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Have you tried richening the "hidden screw"?

No, I have read about it. I saw that as more of an adjustment, not a repair. I never once had any complaints about this saw, it was always flawless. I didn't even have any of the hot start issues that a lot of guys did.

There is very clearly something wrong with it, I just don't know what.
 

huskyboy

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The hidden screw is a air bleed screw. CCW 1/4 turn let’s more air in, so the autotune fattens up the idle adjustment. Which in theory gets rid of the lean bog. The same effect can be achieved by slightly opening the air bleed hole in the throttle plate or messing with the strato wire linkages. However, it’s always a good idea to get the carb updated/freshened up as a trouble shooting measure before replacing it entirely. At least before trying anything that drastic that can’t be easily reversed. The saw could have problems that aren’t related to the carb/autotune. Which would show up as codes in the computer (an airleak somewhere). I’ve learned carb mods are not a good troubleshooting measure unless it’s the last resort.
 
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DND 9000

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Thanks for the insight, I understand.

I sent a PM to @backhoelover as well, I've seen him mention that he has the software as well.

Any way to know if the carb is bad other than trial and error? Are they worth putting a kit in?

Find a real good Husqvarna dealer. That is the only thing that will help you solve this problem. Only Husqvarna certified dealers who are connected to the mothership (like Spike60) can update your carburetor. Backhoelover is a good mechanic/dealer, but he is no Husqvarna dealer.
 
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billyel

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Here’s to you getting your saw sorted.

Husky shops who sell equipment but can’t support a saw is why I switched to Stihl.
 

huskyboy

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Stihl shops are just as useless regarding mtronic around here. It’s a shared problem.
 

Atimm693

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Find a real good Husqvarna dealer. That is the only thing that will help you solve this problem. Only Husqvarna certified dealers who are connected to the mothership (like Spike60) can update your carburetor. Backhoelover is a good mechanik/dealer, but he is no Husqvarna dealer.

I hate to spend $100+ an hour for a dealer to do the same work I already have. The only thing I can't do is program the carb.

Stihl shops are just as useless regarding mtronic around here. It’s a shared problem.

The other dealer I mentioned, is also the area's largest Stihl dealer.
 

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got to love "dealers" that cant support machinery that they can "sell"...not sure what the Amish call that but here in NJ we call it "bullchittery"...
Husqvarna should not let people become dealers who do not have the equipment / tools
software and skills to work on the products they sell.
 

Atimm693

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I swung by the Amish. They have an arrangement worked out with a customer that has the software on a laptop, and will stop in whenever they need to use it.

They leaned toward the carburetor being the issue as well. They're going to program and new one and I'll give that a try.

It is tempting to sell this thing and get a nice 346xp. This stuff is a pain in the butt.
 

kneedeepinsaws

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The hidden screw is a air bleed screw. CCW 1/4 turn let’s more air in, so the autotune fattens up the idle adjustment. Which in theory gets rid of the lean bog. The same effect can be achieved by slightly opening the air bleed hole in the throttle plate or messing with the strato wire linkages. However, it’s always a good idea to get the carb updated/freshened up as a trouble shooting measure before replacing it entirely. At least before trying anything that drastic that can’t be easily reversed. The saw could have problems that aren’t related to the carb/autotune. Which would show up as codes in the computer (an airleak somewhere). I’ve learned carb mods are not a good troubleshooting measure unless it’s the last resort.
I had an old 550 in which it ran fine new but 3-4 tanks would die at any kind of idle. I adjusted this said screw 1/4 turn out and it fixed the issue.
But I did noticed high rpm ignition breakup after... i dont know if this was connected to that but all the same it is still worth trying
 

kneedeepinsaws

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I swung by the Amish. They have an arrangement worked out with a customer that has the software on a laptop, and will stop in whenever they need to use it.

They leaned toward the carburetor being the issue as well. They're going to program and new one and I'll give that a try.

It is tempting to sell this thing and get a nice 346xp. This stuff is a pain in the butt.
Yes i ditched the 550xp myself, i however never did replace the 50cc class with another.
I have heard the MK2 is quite the improvement if you want the same displacement.
 
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