Machining base without a lathe*

[cease232]

I've seen this question asked more than a few times over the years and thought I would take a shot at it. I'm more of a woodworker than a machinist so I had to figure out how to do this with woodworking tools. I did use a wood lathe but don't think it's entirely necessary.

I used a router (variable speed Palm router), feeler gauges, a straightedge (to check my work), two router bits, and shop made jig/mandrel.

Donor jug. Squish was 0.065 with no gasket so I was shooting for taking off 0.045.

Shop made mandrel, turned on my wood lathe but I think square stock would work just as well.

First pass was made with this template bit to make the hardboard top the same diameter as the lip of the cylinder.

Then using feeler gauges I started taking off 0.0100 at a time, takes a steady hand and firm downward pressure with the router against the mandrel.

Results were excellent IMHO.

Squish after machining. Took 4 passes. One pass I took 0.015

Next time I plan on using an end mill. The bit I was using is of very low quality. Let me know what you think. It could probably be improved but I threw this together on a whim this afternoon.
Jeremiah

 

[mdavlee]

Not bad at all.

 

[dieselfitter]

How does the new surface check with a straight edge? I would be concerned with keeping the surface square.

 

[cease232]

How does the new surface check with a straight edge? I would be concerned with keeping the surface square.

It's perfect. I included a picture of me checking it. I make sure the end of my mandrel was as square as possible and the hardboard was sitting tight to the cylinder all the way around.


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[czar800]

I love seeing people doing things outside the box. Great job!

Was that just a hinge bit?

 

[cease232]

I love seeing people doing things outside the box. Great job!

Was that just a hinge bit?

Haha ya, a sh**ty Ryobi one at that. thanks.


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[drf256]

Great job. More than one way to skin a cat.

The jug extension. Any interference with case or crank?

Will it impede airflow into jug?

 

[cease232]

Great job. More than one way to skin a cat.

The jug extension. Any interference with case or crank?

Will it impede airflow into jug?

Thanks. No interference. Air flow is gonna be tight. I might have to notch the jug extension. Will have to look at that closer.


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[mdavlee]

I usually trim them the same I take off the base or a little more.

 

[cease232]

I usually trim them the same I take off the base or a little more.

Good idea. I'll probably go that route.


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[jmssaws]

If you cut much off the base and none off the flange you will break the corners off the cylinder.

 

[Mastermind]

Rep for you sir. Very cool.

 

[cease232]

If you cut much off the base and none off the flange you will break the corners off the cylinder.

I made sure there was enough case clearance for the flange after the cut. It seats fine. The only question now is wether or not case airflow is restricted.


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[WKEND LUMBERJAK]

Neatest thing next to a ported saw.

 

[cease232]

Rep for you sir. Very cool.

Thanks!


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[Red97]

Very nice work,

Material removed off base+gasket thickness is what I take off the extensions.

 

[paragonbuilder]

I've been thinking how to use a flush cut router bit on jugs with cylinder extensions and also how to do a jug without them.
This is fantastic!


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[mdavlee]

Router sled and a xy vise.

 

[czar800]

I can't wait to see what you come up with to cut the band.

The next saw I need to cut the base on I'm going to use your method. I've been sanding them.

 

[jmssaws]

I have a 48" commercial belt sander that I still cut a bunch of stihl bases on simply because I can cut 040 off in less time than I can find the stuff to Chuck it up.
In less than a minute I can cut 040 off and be completely square and flat.
I use a lathe for flanged cylinders and occasionally a stihl.

Only problem is I gave 500$ more for the sander than my lathe.