High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

Let’s see some stumps

afleetcommand

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Ahhh root flares & stumps. Just did a video on that relative to back cuts & putting the hinge in the root flare assuming the lean is favorable to that side of the tree. :)
I have a section coming up with prolly 50 to 60 larger Red Oak as well. Hoping I get there next year, all hill side work though so waiting for better weather.

 

afleetcommand

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I need to show you no fiber pull easterners the Magic Cut. ;-)
Come on out to these woods and demonstrate, I'll pick u up at the airport I'm sure many a logger out here would like to see a magic cut :)

( BTW to those who didn't catch it, the video is not about cut style & approach as much is it's about "tension & compression" and the shape of a hinge, doesn't matter if it's a bird mouth, conventional, Humboldt or some other wing bat concept. It's about getting a hinge to crush & get weaker before it goes to tension. And to get the fibers in a situation where they are more likely to break in your favor vs. pull out of the tree. I could do exactly the same demonstration with a Conventional , Humboldt western style cut, or any other with the hinge in the tree too. That face closes or a Dutchman or some other thing that puts those fibers in tension while in a configuration to pull.....it pulls :) Just that simple. )
 
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davidwyby

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Come on out to these woods and demonstrate, I'll pick u up at the airport I'm sure many a logger out here would like to see a magic cut :)

( BTW to those who didn't catch it, the video is not about cut style & approach as much is it's about "tension & compression" and the shape of a hinge, doesn't matter if it's a bird mouth, conventional, Humboldt or some other wing bat concept. It's about getting a hinge to crush & get weaker before it goes to tension. And to get the fibers in a situation where they are more likely to break in your favor vs. pull out of the tree. I could do exactly the same demonstration with a Conventional , Humboldt western style cut, or any other with the hinge in the tree too. That face closes or a Dutchman or some other thing that puts those fibers in tension while in a configuration to pull.....it pulls :) Just that simple. )
Careful what you say...I'd like to get to come cut with you. Years ago when I went to the NY GTG I was bummed I didn't get to meet you 'n @Spike60

I have never personally done a magic cut, but it might work for no pull...not that your current method doesn't. It's a Reg Coates *correction, Gord* cut for chunking down spars, a variation of the snap cut. Only works with head leaners I'd expect.
 
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Loony661

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How are you likin that premium light bar?
I’ve had it about 2 weeks now, and I’m getting used to it. It’s a lot more flexible than I was expecting. That being said, it’s also THE most forgiving bar I’ve ever used. You can just about turn it into a letter C and it’ll go right back straight - it’s very impressive that way. Weight is about what I was expecting for a “Light Weight” bar. It balances on the 462 very well. Wear has been minimal, if any. Overall, glad I bought it. @MG2186
 

afleetcommand

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Just an opinion. My "Beef" With my Sugihara in Husqvarna colors is it's really flexible. Tosses chains more than the Husqvarna X-Tough 28inch solid bar. I'm not going back around that light bar block for felling. Just firewood. I would expect and bar with a cut out to flex more than I like. :)
 

MG2186

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Biggest thing with bore cutting and light bars is keeping the bar perpendicular, doesn’t take much upward or downward movement from the power head and you’ll see the chain running off the rails. Once you train yourself of that it’s not an issue. It took me a bit to get there but now it’s not an issue for me. I wasn’t going to carry around a regular weight bar so I had to figure it out.
 

Maintenance Chief

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The thing I find is you can't be lazy with the power head. I see guys one handing and leaning back while plunging or face cutting, which is gonna stress the geometry. Totally acceptable for a soild bar ,but when I'm using a long light bar it's 2 hands and feet braced for balance .
Limbing is where I blow the chain the most.
 

MG2186

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The thing I find is you can't be lazy with the power head. I see guys one handing and leaning back while plunging or face cutting, which is gonna stress the geometry. Totally acceptable for a soild bar ,but when I'm using a long light bar it's 2 hands and feet braced for balance .
Limbing is where I blow the chain the most.
All very true and have had the same experiences
 

Hinerman

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This guy's channel is really pretty cool, right after Bjarne Butler's I go here :) AND check out the "stumps" he's making :)

How did he do that without getting the bar pinched? I did not see any wedges
 

afleetcommand

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How did he do that without getting the bar pinched? I did not see any wedges
He left "spurs" or parts of the root flare. to hold it up until he was ready to let it go, hinge wood what little there is left also
 
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Hinerman

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He left "spurs" or parts of the root flare. to hold it up until he was ready to let it go, hinge wood what little the is also
I would like a closer inspection. I saw no hinge wood. It looked like he cut the spurs off, except the last one, before boring into the tree. However he did it...it was pretty slick!!!
 
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