High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

Important. ...husky 350 loctite 518 vs 1184

RI Chevy

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Very informative Matt. Good job with the tutorial.
 

Chainsaw Jim

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Good video. That would have definitely prevented me from the mistake I made on the first 350 I worked on.
I hope you don't mind me adding a few things I've learned the hard way.
If that 1184 is anything similar to permatex grey then you can apply a nice controlled bead with a q-tip and let it go nearly dry before joining the parts together. You'll avoid a bunch of clean up and you'll get a better layer between the pieces for a better bond. I've noticed that using loctite on the mount bolts during assembly can squeeze out enough to mix with the uncured gasket maker to dilute it and interfere with curing. I'll torque them down dry and then redo them with loctite the next day.

I did find a good solution to aide with the 518. That thin packing paper they use to wrap knick knacks and fragile items. It measures out to .001 thickness and absorbs 518 to make it into an awesome fail proof gasket. And it completely saturates so the paper won't burn or eat away between the glue after time.
 

Mattyo

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kinda worried about the primer going everywhere...

believe me, I really like the idea of the anaerobic....but after this one issue, I'm convinced 1184 for the base is important...

it wasn't leaking in one spot, the whole base was a leak. and the base bolts were tight. even if the riser wasn't flat, it would be leaking in one spot ... no.. the whole thing here.
 

Keith Gandy

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Threebond 1184, Yamabond, Motoseal, Dirko arent anerobic and if excess is squeezed out into the transfers it hardens and stays put and is an obstruction for flow or breaks free and floats around in the chamber or bearings/crank
 

Keith Gandy

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kinda worried about the primer going everywhere...

believe me, I really like the idea of the anaerobic....but after this one issue, I'm convinced 1184 for the base is important...

it wasn't leaking in one spot, the whole base was a leak. and the base bolts were tight. even if the riser wasn't flat, it would be leaking in one spot ... no.. the whole thing here.
Ive tried 515/518 without the primer and when pulled apart its eneven as to where it adhered and didnt. With the primer/ accelerator it adheres much more evenly and alot quicker
 

Keith Gandy

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kinda worried about the primer going everywhere...

believe me, I really like the idea of the anaerobic....but after this one issue, I'm convinced 1184 for the base is important...

it wasn't leaking in one spot, the whole base was a leak. and the base bolts were tight. even if the riser wasn't flat, it would be leaking in one spot ... no.. the whole thing here.
Ive never had one let go with 518
 

Keith Gandy

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I buff the mating surfaces with a small stainless wheel on my handpice, clean with carb cleaner and wipe dry, spray primer on and let dry a few seconds, apply 518 evenly, then tighten cylinder down
 

Keith Gandy

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Just thinking for a moment, maybe a regular gasket would work better?
Sometimes gains in comprrssion can be gained by deleting just the gasket or if not wanting to cut as much off the base the choice is to delete the gasket and take only whats needed from cylinder base
 

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OK. I understand that part. But may make mating upper to lower more secure? Less likely to leak. Easier to take apart down the road.
 
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