I'm fixin' to build a splitter

[Deets066]

If I build another splitter I will probly make a box beam out of plate. 1" or 1-1/4" plate on the top and 5/8" for the rest

 

[Deets066]

I was thinking the same thing. I'd also add to the top as was suggested.

First splitter I made, I boxed the whole back of the splitter in an one side was gas tank the other was hydraulic tank.

That was and 18" beam though

 

[Grimmy]

Get a tube and ditch the beam all together.

 

[Al Smith]

I'll dig the pics up some day .Mine is a 16 GPM with an 11 HP Briggs .2" heel plate single wedge ,5" Parker super duty cylinder 4500 PSI surge rated . It's got a wide flange 10" piling I beam that weighs 72 pounds per foot .I doubt I'll ever bend it .Tank is a piece of heavy wall 8" pipe with Ford Escort spindles for the wheels ..I have 8 or 10 gallons of Dextron II in it with a suction line filter . I had most of the stuff but I still have around 500 bucks in it .About 4 days to fab it up and weld it .

 

[fearofpavement]

It's almost always cheaper to buy a splitter than to build one unless you already have several of the major components.
ie, Even if you have the cylinder, pump and engine, you'll still need the beam, axle, spindles, wheels, tires, bearings, hydraulic tank, hoses, control valve, push plate components, wedge components, hardware, weld rod, paint, hydraulic fluid, hitch coupler, safety chains and so forth and so on.
I would recommend some planning and math calculations before anyone "starts" on a project like this without the knowledge of what the end cost will be.
I think a good option is to buy someone's failed project or perhaps a splitter that is inop. Repairing one will be a lot cheaper than starting over.
I know many of us are "do it yourself" type people and want to build a super duty, unique, custom splitter but...

 

[super3]

Do you all feel a 4" would be too fast with 22gpm?

No.

That cyl will be fine with the wood that you mentioned.

Long time ago my Dad built one on a rail road rail.
3 1/2" cyl, 5 hp briggs and a small pump. It was speedy.

We split all oak no problems. The crotches were the only challenge, you just had to know how to place it on the wedge.

 

[Al Smith]

I had an itty bitty one that originally had a 3 HP gas engine,4" beam,3" cylinder with a knife edge cutter using a push beam .I installed a 5 Hp electric that in reality was only 2.8 HP by the amp draw,they lie you know about HP .Believe it or not I split 36" oak rounds with it ,got the pictures to prove it .With that skinny knife edge it would cut right through it .Knots however were a different matter all together .It wasn't real fast but it beat swinging an axe .--get-er-done ---

 

[huskihl]

I've got a little Roper with a junk 4hp Briggs on it. I just picked up an L48 Kubota with qd front bucket and front aux hydraulics. I'm thinking it would be cheap enough to hook up the hoses and try it out. I'm not sure about the gpm rating on the valve, but it might be too fast with a 3" cylinder powered by the Kubota's 26 gpm pump

 

[Four Paws]

I've got a little Roper with a junk 4hp Briggs on it. I just picked up an L48 Kubota with qd front bucket and front aux hydraulics. I'm thinking it would be cheap enough to hook up the hoses and try it out. I'm not sure about the gpm rating on the valve, but it might be too fast with a 3" cylinder powered by the Kubota's 26 gpm pump

Just set the throttle accordingly. It doesn't pump 26gpm at idle.

 

[Milkman31]

An old riding lawnmower with a good engine and shot deck is a start.
I saw a guy take a Ford mower cut the frame right at the footboards,knocked off the front wheels and axle and mount the whole thing. Complete self contained power unit,key start run,throttle,stop,gas tank and working headlights for after dark. Mounted the pump right off the shaft where it came out the bottom for the old drive pulley. Probably could use the rear wheels and transaxle for mobility.

I used an old mower to build mine to worked well!

 

[fearofpavement]

If you have a tractor that can be adapted for or has remote hydraulics, I've seen those splitters (three point) go for $400 give or take a hundred. Not a bad option as you don't have another engine to maintain. It's not all that hard to modify a typical splitter to a 3pt configuration. So instead of all the stuff you usually need, it reduces it to the beam and cylinder/wedge and then a control valve and some quick connect hoses. Don't need an engine, pump, coupler, filter, reservoir, etc.
Need a tractor to run it? Come buy my Case VAC with live hydraulics. $1200 bucks and you can prep your garden with it too...