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HELP! Looking for some advice on fixing my iron and oak 30ton log splitter

Dustin4185

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Dustin4185

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After looking at the pics on my laptop, it looks like a 5/8 hitch pin in the bottom. Probably need to swap it for a clevis cylinder pin of proper size. That would stop A LOT of the movement. Then either weld the piss out of the rod after cleaning it up or try to modify it to take nuts on top again. Last rod I had to have made was for a disc mower. It was a basic rod with a hole in the end (no welding) and it was $200. New cylinder from Krone was $650. All that to say, if you are capable or know someone that is, I would try to weld a bolt or threaded rod on the end.
 

Junk Meister

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Address the slop at the base of the cyl, Then if threads don't reveal when the weld slobber is ground off you could weld as large of a bolt (Threads up) onto ram as Justin suggested. or if you can detect a telltale line that the ram was bored and threaded try to remove/extract remains of bolt/stud or take complete cyl to someone to GET'R DUN. If it is bored and threaded , do the bolt and washer thing.
 
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Yellowking86

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If you can tip the top of the ram out and get the chrome shaft/ram to clear everything (Maybe block the cross wedge way up SAFELY) and extend the ram to max this may hold it so you can try to unscrew the rusty looking part in the end of the ram loose. JUST DON"T DING THE CHROME.
Also what is going on at the bottom yoke/clevis at the base of the cylinder? Is a ball socket missing (Like on a tractor 3 point hitch) or a bushing of some design deleted by previous owner? That slop will let the cross wedge go unchecked with the grain influencing the split. Check out the Illustrated Parts List (IPL).
As far as the return detente disengaging there is a lot of info on adjusting that here and on UTube.
I ordered the correct Clovis for the bottom
 

Yellowking86

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Thanks everyone I’m going to try and weld a bolt on, and I have ordered the correct size Clevis. IMG_4980.jpeg
 

Junk Meister

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Well WE know THAT isn't you. NO SNOW and TEE Shirt weather. But the jamb nuts sure standout.
I doubt it is a stud threaded into the shaft. When you weld the bolt on use a hard 8 grade fine thread black finish bolt..
Double nut the nuts to your bolt, this gives you somethin to clamp the ground to And protect the threads. A bit of No Seize won't hurt just keep it out of your weld.
The manufacturer used a double nut for a reason, I am "thinking" They didn't want the ram drawn up to bottom of wedge plate so tight That it may break off. (Just a thought). Protect the chrome from weld spatter maybe a small piece of pipe and taped at the end. a beverage can or aluminum strip wrapped around the ram a few times with with a radiator hose clamp or 2.
@StumpShot says something like "Remember it was broke when you stared"
GOOD LUCK
 

Yellowking86

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Well WE know THAT isn't you. NO SNOW and TEE Shirt weather. But the jamb nuts sure standout.
I doubt it is a stud threaded into the shaft. When you weld the bolt on use a hard 8 grade fine thread black finish bolt..
Double nut the nuts to your bolt, this gives you somethin to clamp the ground to And protect the threads. A bit of No Seize won't hurt just keep it out of your weld.
The manufacturer used a double nut for a reason, I am "thinking" They didn't want the ram drawn up to bottom of wedge plate so tight That it may break off. (Just a thought). Protect the chrome from weld spatter maybe a small piece of pipe and taped at the end. a beverage can or aluminum strip wrapped around the ram a few times with with a radiator hose clamp or 2.
@StumpShot says something like "Remember it was broke when you stared"
GOOD LUCK
I’ll try that thank you I’ll post pics when finished
 
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