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I'm fixin' to build a splitter

Four Paws

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Every year I borrow my neighbors splitter to process my rounds into usable firewood. It's homemade, running an old Tecumseh HM100. Every year I put a few bucks into it to keep it going. Every year I wonder when the Tecumseh is going to let go.

I have decided to build my own splitter. I have several nice I-beams, a Briggs twin from a garden tractor, and plenty of other "scrap" to put together a decent looking and functioning machine.

I am planning to use a 22gpm pump and a 4" ram.

Looking for input on the following:

Should I use a fully welded cylinder, or a cylinder with clevis ends?

Wedge design - I want to know what works for you. I would like to have a hydraulic 4-way, but in reality, a manual 4-way would be fine. Pictures would be great!

Log table - again, what works for you? Height, size, stationary or removable, pictures?
 

Fifelaker

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I am not sure a 4" cylinder will have enough ass to run a four way wedge in alot of the wood I get. As far as height, what works for me may be uncomfortable for you. A 22gpm pump is going to make a 4" cylinder fly. If you go to surpluscenter.com they have calculators that will help you make a decision on what to go with as far as cylinder and pump.
 

Crane

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I bought this used, and then used it for almost thirty years. It is a SpeeCo from the pre-1985 by a couple years. Replaced valve with detent valve, and the original Briggs, when it got tired, with the Honda. The owner before me raised it up so he could tow it behind a tractor in an orchard. Very nice comfortable height. The tie rod cylinder was never an issue. There are 'stroke reducing collars' on it in the picture. They limit the return, in this case to 18" for splitting 16" rounds. The wedge is one of the best I've seen, a combination of thin for cutting and flared at the rear. The beam sits on the step in the wood bench. The bench could be used on either side. I replaced it with a TW-6 for the four-way wedge and log lift when I got more into selling firewood. In hind site, I should have had someone fab a log lift for this one. Most of the wood I split is with a kinetic splitter, which I highly recommend, unless you need a log lift. One of the benefits of the kinetic splitters is the comfortable working height, the work table itself, and the narrow cutting wedge. The Timberwolf wedge design is not one I would copy. Good luck with your design/build.
Note: Just re-read your post. I no longer think a four-way is necessary, or even all that great. The table in the above photo really helps re-splitting. If you do build a four-way, you want it adjustable. When using mine I split with it in the lowered position. If the two lower splits need re-split, raise the wing to untrap them, and then pull them forward with a pulp hook to re-split. Below is a modified Timberwolf four-way, which now acts as a table.IMG_2438.jpg IMG_2437.jpgIMG_1519.jpg IMG_1522.jpg
Without the modification the large pieces end up on the out feed table or on the ground again. Much easier to use a pulp hood and pull them back to the horizontal log lift, or beam. It is a sliding action. If they get to the out feed table you have to lift them back around the four-way wedge. I did that for two weeks, and found a welding shop. It could have been a couple inches wider on each side due to the 'fat' vertical wedge design.
Again, good luck... hope something in there was helpful.
 
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dall

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i built mine a couple years ago i have a 5 inch cylinder on mine and would not want to go less i did use a 16 gpm pump and want to switch that to a 22 but it will cost me about 250 for the switch over . i am running a 12.5 kohler so i can go up a size need atleast 12 to run the 22 gpm pump . remember to make oil tank big so the oil can cool down some before running again i have a 15 gallon oil tank . hydraulic wedge splits 4 ways and raises 6 inches to where i can split single . i havent found anything yet i cant split or cut through with my setup image-54781.jpg image-54781.jpg image-54779.jpg
 

Deets066

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The log lift is defiantly a must, the hydraulic 4 way is just a bonus.
 

Four Paws

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Thanks for the replies! I appreciate the feedback.

Do you all feel a 4" would be too fast with 22gpm? I split all conifers - Douglas Fir, lodgepole pine, etc. No gnarly knots or crotches. I don't think I would need the splitting force the 5" cylinder would provide.

What size I- beam are you guys running?
 

Fifelaker

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According to the calculator, a 4" cylinder will extend 6.7 inches per second @22gpm. and 4.9 @16gpm. One of the issues with speed is it can send stuff flying faster. I don't work as fast as I once did so the cycle time means less to me than others. I don't know how old you are, but at 57 I am a lot slower than I was a few years ago.
 

Four Paws

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The log lift is defiantly a must, the hydraulic 4 way is just a bonus.

What valves are you using?

I am debating an auto-cycle, but think a detent valve will work fine.

I think work surface about 32" or so would be nice.

I won't be road towing this, so I may just use the old garden tractor tires to keep costs down. Hubs with bearings and bolt on wheels would be nice, though.
 

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Go to the bone yard and find a couple of hubs and space saver donuts off of the same cars. Weld them up and you will be good for years. I picked up 2 hubs and the donuts for $20 for my welding cart.
 

Deets066

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What valves are you using?

I am debating an auto-cycle, but think a detent valve will work fine.

I think work surface about 32" or so would be nice.

I won't be road towing this, so I may just use the old garden tractor tires to keep costs down. Hubs with bearings and bolt on wheels would be nice, though.
image.jpeg

Auto cycle is real nice if you split by yourself. That's what I use
 

Four Paws

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Auto cycle is real nice if you split by yourself. That's what I use

I like your layout. Assuming that the other 2 handles are for log lift and 4-way wedge?

What size engine/pump/splitting ram are you using? What is your oil tank capacity?
 

exSW

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An old riding lawnmower with a good engine and shot deck is a start.
I saw a guy take a Ford mower cut the frame right at the footboards,knocked off the front wheels and axle and mount the whole thing. Complete self contained power unit,key start run,throttle,stop,gas tank and working headlights for after dark. Mounted the pump right off the shaft where it came out the bottom for the old drive pulley. Probably could use the rear wheels and transaxle for mobility.
 
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Deets066

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An old riding lawnmower with a good engine and shot deck is a start.
I saw a guy take a Ford mower cut the frame right at the footboards,knocked off the front wheels and axle and mount the whole thing. Complete self contained power unit,key start run,throttle,stop,gas tank and working headlights for after dark. Mounted the pump right off the shaft where it came out the bottom for the old drive pulley. Probably could use the rear wheels and transaxle for mobility.
Aren't most of those a tapered shaft?
 

Deets066

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I like your layout. Assuming that the other 2 handles are for log lift and 4-way wedge?

What size engine/pump/splitting ram are you using? What is your oil tank capacity?
5" bore with 30" stroke I think, can't remember for sure. 16 gpm pump and 8 hp Honda. That I stole off my old splitter. It's kinda slow so I ordered a new 20 hp and 28 gpm pump. It's still sitting on the shelf though
 
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