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Husqvarna 340/351/346 new little snarly wanna be

old guy

Love me some Husqvarna
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Last Sunday we were cutting on a bucking stand, the wood was from about 4'' to around 15'' or so. The other guy had a 576 husky with a short bar, might have been 18'', I started out with the Tree Monkey 346. The loader would drop 5 or 6 logs in front of us at a time and we would cut 16'' pieces from each end towards the middle and I never felt handicapped by the smaller saw in that size wood.
When that ran out of fuel I used my my 550xp with gasket delete and muff mod and it was plain it did not have the power of the Tree Monkey saw.
 

huskyboy

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340- 345- 350 have bolt on covers, 351- 353- 346 have clamp down covers, I don't personally know if the bolt down covers fit.
Whoops forgot that about the pro version covers do have the clamps. The air filter holders/filters are different between 346xp and 350 as well.
 
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Mattyo

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its funny, I'm not sure the metal handlebar is much better than the plastic. to each his own, but that to me doesn't matter much.

swap the oiler, the 340 has the cruddy oiler.

my vids have all info you could want, but heres the top 3

1, metal intake clamp ...needs to be there
2, exhaust bracket ...use the one from the 346xp and cut one of the legs off
3, reseal the riser ... in your case you'll want a riser block/bearing cap thats new. ideally you want new fine thread m6 screws to hold the riser block down to the chassis, and be EXTREMELY careful that you have the correct length bolts. if you head bolts (m5) are too long, they will bottom out before the cylinder head seals.

lots of different stuff you can do with these. the 359 carbs a probably a good idea, though not necessary. the 359 intake tract is cool but not necessary (unless you want your saw to perform like Brads lol .... then u need it).

i like cutting the riser block to adjust squish rather than cutting the base of the cylinder. the 346xp head is notorious for be tricky to cut base on AND then subsequently being tricky to seal the intake boot.

riser block MUST be sealed with stuff that sticks to plastic. loctite 518 does not. learned that the hard way ... @Tor R to the rescue.
I now use threebond 1184. dirko would probably work fine too.

lots of stuff to know, and my vids have a lot more...check out my channel, do you research, then come back and ask questions
 

Wolverine

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I like the 350 platform as well and chose it as my first saw to port due to those removable transfer covers. Mike @t4driller really helped me on this project. His help laying out port timing lines for me to grind allowed it to happen. While you are in there maybe now is the time to learn how to use a degree wheel. Plenty of guys here to help and it will significantly increase your gains over widening alone. I picked the Jonsered version, a 2150 then ended up dying it black.
Base to cyl matching.(Go easy, this was my first official port job)
20170103_161445.jpg 20170104_202904.jpg
I ground out the dividers on the riser base.

Also, use something to lock the transfer cover screws(I used loctite blue). I had one side come loose but the leak was caught before it did any damage.
 

Adamski

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Someone give me the low down on then 340/5/50/46 carbs. This 340 has a decent one by the looks of it, I am guessing internally it is not the same as the 346’s. I’ll take some snaps of the saw after a good clean but overall it’s in great condition. Just gotta wait for the 346 muffler, cylinder and piston and the riser. Then I will start tearing the saw apart.
 

dustinwilt68

Wilt Built Work Saws
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Just get a zama EL42 from ebay, 32.00 brand new, I have 2 from T4driller one has the wahlbro 199 and the other has the Zama EL42, the zama is just less finicky and produces the same power, we did use the 359 intake boot, elbow and filter setup on booth. I have a 2145 I will probably build another 1 with the 346xp topend on.
 

Adamski

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Does anyone know the thread and pitch of the coarse screws that the AV's attach to the tank? I believe they are m5 but I am not sure of the pitch. I have a pulled one at the rear upper mount of the tank. I want to find an insert and try and fix it. Maybe not possible as it is near the tank and may cause a leak. Either it is possible or I will JB weld and set the screw in...
 

Adamski

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Well I might think about using an m5 brass fine thread insert with a barbed pattern. They are designed to be pressed in a 6.5mm hole whilst they are red hot.. opinions... is there enough meat for a 6.5mm hole on the upper mount?
 

decableguy2000

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Screw insert requires a 6.1mm drill bit
Husqvarna 503 27 39-01 OEM Thread Insert For 5 Mm Plastic Thread 503273901
 

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