its funny, I'm not sure the metal handlebar is much better than the plastic. to each his own, but that to me doesn't matter much.
swap the oiler, the 340 has the cruddy oiler.
my vids have all info you could want, but heres the top 3
1, metal intake clamp ...needs to be there
2, exhaust bracket ...use the one from the 346xp and cut one of the legs off
3, reseal the riser ... in your case you'll want a riser block/bearing cap thats new. ideally you want new fine thread m6 screws to hold the riser block down to the chassis, and be EXTREMELY careful that you have the correct length bolts. if you head bolts (m5) are too long, they will bottom out before the cylinder head seals.
lots of different stuff you can do with these. the 359 carbs a probably a good idea, though not necessary. the 359 intake tract is cool but not necessary (unless you want your saw to perform like Brads lol .... then u need it).
i like cutting the riser block to adjust squish rather than cutting the base of the cylinder. the 346xp head is notorious for be tricky to cut base on AND then subsequently being tricky to seal the intake boot.
riser block MUST be sealed with stuff that sticks to plastic. loctite 518 does not. learned that the hard way ...
@Tor R to the rescue.
I now use threebond 1184. dirko would probably work fine too.
lots of stuff to know, and my vids have a lot more...check out my channel, do you research, then come back and ask questions