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Husqvarna 285cd

Discussion in 'Ask the Experts' started by thedude74, May 23, 2017.

  1. thedude74

    thedude74 Well-Known OPE Member

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    Kustom flywheel key on the right, made from scrap angle iron, stock sheared key on the left. Its not really a cost effective solution....about 2hrs to make it...think correct keys can be purchased new for $6. Was curious if it could be done. It fits good, now that the nut is torqued correctly its holding up fine. 20170527_023023.jpg
     
  2. thedude74

    thedude74 Well-Known OPE Member

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    Thats a great idea! I see what your talking about, my plastic throttle is litterally about half gone!!
     
  3. fossil

    fossil Pinnacle OPE Member

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    Not sure where you set the metering lever but it needs to be level with the carb body if it's a Tillotson HS. Likely a 136C if my info is correct.

    I'm guessing you put a carb kit in it. If you didn't, there's only upside if you do.

    The governors have a check ball and spring inside and are designed to dump extra fuel into the carb venturi as they start to vibrate at a designed RPM.

    Here's an HS manual.

    A lot of people make the mistake of putting oil on the crank taper where the flywheel goes. It should be oil free and dry.
     

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  4. thedude74

    thedude74 Well-Known OPE Member

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    Hi Tim! Good info! Very helpful. Yes, it is the tillotson hs136c. Didnt put any oil on the flywheel side crank.....not to say its dry though. Will make sure I wipe it down with carb, brake parts cleaner when I reassemble it.
    Have rebuilt the carb with the correct kit. Have the metering level set correctly(thanks to Detes, A100hva). Finished the pressure/vac adapter and test....Flywheel side crank seal leaking bad....found the garter spring from the seal out of place, near the end of the shaft.

    Seal was in place, used a plastic sleave to install it. Have a feeling the distorted metal(my doing) didnt help it any.
    Anyway, if you havent had a good laugh today..... Utilized a used latex glove folded over a few times with a hole cut in the middle. Some serious sanford and son engineering! However, it worked.
    The adapter is a simple 1/4" npt x flare for refrigeration systems. Used my refrigeration gauges and nitrogen tank to pressurize it. Didnt really need the soap bubbles as the leak could be heard/felt coming from behind the starter.

    Will order 20170603_033816.jpg another seal soon and give it another try. This time i wont put it in backwards and deform the thing taking out! lol! Live and learn huh?
    Waiting to see how the saw responds after case holds vac/pressure before I blank the governor off, although sounds like many folks do as it is problamatic.
    Thanks again for all of the suggestions, diagrams. videos, shared knowledge and experiance.
    20170603_033816.jpg
    20170603_034536.jpg
     
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  5. thedude74

    thedude74 Well-Known OPE Member

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    Hi guys. Woke up early this morning, swapped the wasted seal for the old one(was in good shape). Presure test was good.

    ITS ALIVE!!!!
    Starts, idles, revs...Have to get it in some wood now....tune it and break it in. Ill post a video soon. Thanks again for all of your help guys!! 20170604_091449.jpg 20170604_091518.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 4, 2017
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  6. Redfin

    Redfin Meh...

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    Where did you find that bar?
     
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  7. thedude74

    thedude74 Well-Known OPE Member

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    Got it on ebay. $40 Delivered to my door. Its a Tsumura 24".

    Comstock Logging supplies has the 20"(comstock label) for $45,
    24"(laser ultra label) for 49.95.
    They also have the Laser branded Tsumura 20" ultra light for $65.
     
    Last edited: Jun 4, 2017
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  8. Marshy

    Marshy WFO Cutting

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    Looks like a sexy shiny saw. Post a clip of her cutting when you get to it.
     
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  9. thedude74

    thedude74 Well-Known OPE Member

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    Thanks Marshy. Will do!
     
  10. Marshy

    Marshy WFO Cutting

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    Any update on your saw, been enjoying it? I used my 285 this past Saturday to take out a willow tree. It did fine with a 28" bar. One of my favorite saws.
     
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