FarmerTec not starting

[Ewing Waymire]

brshephard -- No offence taken, we can have a little fun in this serious world of saws. I am new to chainsaws in general and read the owners manuals and decided (on my CS-590) that the ground start was best for me. In the middle of this MS660 'conflagration' I did try the drop start but it just wasn't my cup of tea. Maybe when someone teaches me in person, I'll give another go but for now, I got a good, solid foothold and it works for me

 

[Ewing Waymire]

traffic903 -- I'll give that 'high idle' problem another look. Is there a post or video that shows how to 'give the high idle some love' or a more heavy handed adjustment? Sometimes a BFH is needed but maybe this isn't the right time to use one <g>.

 

[Larry B]

If you have given it a shot of starting fluid in the carb throat with no choke and it won't fire and run for a couple seconds there us something else going on besides carb. It would be nice to use an inline spark tester while trying to start it. My wife can pull over a saw with 100 psi compression so pretty sure your saw has enough compression to run. I have had customers bring me some pretty ragged out saws and as long an the rings wern't stuck it would start and run. Maybe not much power but would at least start and rev.

 

[brshephard]

If you have given it a shot of starting fluid in the carb throat with no choke and it won't fire and run for a couple seconds there us something else going on besides carb. It would be nice to use an inline spark tester while trying to start it. My wife can pull over a saw with 100 psi compression so pretty sure your saw has enough compression to run. I have had customers bring me some pretty ragged out saws and as long an the rings wern't stuck it would start and run. Maybe not much power but would at least start and rev.

Where did you find this chainsaw running wife?
Asking for a friend...

 

[Larry B]

Dairy farmers daughter. Can drive a tractor besides driving me insane but she let's me buy guns without asking. Tell your friend sorry she hasn't got a sister.

 

[traffic903]

traffic903 -- I'll give that 'high idle' problem another look. Is there a post or video that shows how to 'give the high idle some love' or a more heavy handed adjustment? Sometimes a BFH is needed but maybe this isn't the right time to use one <g>.

Read through my thread here - http://opeforum.com/threads/660-fast-idle-solution-hooray.11450/

 

[MustangMike]

Something does not add up. If the squish is .065, compression s/b low, and saw should be easy to pull over.

Make sure you don't have flooding in the crankcase, that will make it impossible to start, and very hard to pull over.

Pull the plug, move the piston to BDC, rotate the saw (slowly) 180 degrees, if there is fluid in the crank case it should spill out. (If the lever in the carb is set too high, this will happen).

Next, (as previously mentioned), make sure the controls are operating the carb properly. Pull the air filter, move the control lever all the way down, the choke s/b closed. Move the control lever up one (high idle), the choke should open and the throttle s/b part open. Then move one up again, and throttle s/b closed (for idle). Then pull the trigger and make sure the butterfly is wide open.

Also, sounds like timing not being right is a real possibility. If you are sure everything is right, maybe try a different fly wheel.

Check + or replace fuel lines + filter, and make sure the impulse line is well connected on both ends. Some of the ones that come with these kits are a little short. If it is leaking air on either connection, you will have problems.

Replace the plug, just in case.

Best of luck with it, and welcome to the site.

 

[drf256]

I wonder if you could possibly have a bad flywheel. Could you possibly have one that had the key way broached incorrectly?

Please pull plug, turn saw to TDC and see where magnets line up with coil legs.

Low compression causes hard starting, but not the squish itself.

A saw with improper ignition timing will drive you nuts. I’ve had a key slip and it was sure as hell frustrating. It becomes a misfiring, impossible to run, fuel everywhere, mess.

 

[Ewing Waymire]

Larry B and brshephard -- I wonder if that is the chainsaw equivalent of "send picture of boat and motor"

traffic903 -- I printed that on paper and started 'hacking' it out of some cutting board today. Mine DOES hang (as it should) in the 'fast idle' position but I figure it can't hurt to have that little bugger.

drf256 -- You asked if the flywheel aligned the magnets at TDC and it does.

MustangMike -- Gosh, you have repeated what others have said, but did it all at once which makes a good reference for me the next time me and the saw have a "come to jesus" meeting

 

[MustangMike]

Hey, no one else told you how to clear the saw of fuel in the Crank Case!

 

[Ewing Waymire]

1000 pardons, sir, may all my children be born necked <g>

 

[MustangMike]

No need, just sharing!

 

[afleetcommand]

I have a "later" one where the high idle isn't in the cards, the trigger assembly doesn't work that way. Clicks and everything so it feels like it does, but looking in the carb....no movement on the throttle plate. Gets to the "pop" in two pulls....if you can hold the throttle, third pull it starts. BUT w/o that high idle it takes several pulls before it goes...and if you leave the choke on....its floods right out and won't start. What a :"PITA" and yet another wrinkle.

 

[Ewing Waymire]

MustangMike -- It's all good!

afleetcommand -- That would explain why I am in hell! Thank You for the insite! I've only looked at the choke releasing and it stopping at the high idle spot on the "master control" but not analyzed the plate/rod movement. Another item for the up-comming 'come to jesus meeting' me and the saw will have soon as the compression tester comes in and I can open up a morning for some 'saw fun'.

And a super big thank you to each and everyone of you kind folks here!!!

 

[afleetcommand]

Solution for me was to go down to the Stihl dealer and get the choke actuator and trigger parts. NOW its all good. But what a PITA! Took me a while to work through it as the "click" where high idle was supposed to be was there....

 

[CR888]

Are the AM decompression buttons a bit dodgy? A decomp not closing could cause issue.

 

[MustangMike]

They usually close for me. If you increase compression, many of the will close too early. Also, there was a batch of them that seemed to loose their caps. The most recent ones I used did not, perhaps they resolved it, perhaps it is just a different batch.

The Husky decamps seem to be the favored alternative.

 

[afleetcommand]

I haven't used the AM Decomps in a few years. Only took once for me. Maybe they are better now, but I've been using the Husqvarna's Decomps since 2015.....no problems...Cheap insurance.

 

[Ewing Waymire]

afleetcommand -- and -- MustangMike -- This is why I used one. Reports of dodgy operation were bad enough, but reports of the valve dropping into the cylinder and 86'ing the cylinder/piston would be much worse than the marginal cost of an OEM Husky decomp.

 

[brshephard]

I lost the cap off my decomp milling.
Luckily it didn't drop in the cylinder, they are sketchy though.
What is the popoff like on those husky decomps? Are they stiffer than Stihl?