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FergusonTO35

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Thanks. If its like other Echo plastic saws it will still be really good. My CS-400 has been stellar and I've used it pretty hard. it was well used when I bought it more than 10 years ago. Echo takes all their products very seriously, even the cheaper stuff.
 

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I'm freshing up my cs-330t with a new piston /ring and seals.
I've already gutted the cat . Is there any other performance mods I should handle before reassembling ?
I'd try a timing advance. Easy to undo if it doesn't work out.
 

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mainer_in_ak

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Eating my words today, about not really "needing" a 50 cc saw. Started another clear-cutting job, one acre clear-cut. Its so thick with scrub spruce, I can't even see 6 ft in front of me.

I have never cut for so long, and seen such little progress to show for it. Even with a 20 inch aluminum core bar, the CS 620pw is too much weight. 5 hours of cutting, was so sore, slept for 12 hrs. Obviously have to switch to something lighter, and maybe get a full 8 hrs of cutting.

Popped some new crank seals into the 4910. Some cut jobs just ain't no fun. Will try the new loop RS PRO .325 chain, so at least something will be interesting.
20230822-111859.jpg
 

mainer_in_ak

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OK, air leak still there on the 4910. It's coming from the CASE HALVES. It only happens when it's hot, but has to be really run hard for the Air leak to occur. In other words, things really need to expand, for the Air leak to occur.

So fkn weird. They did not use many bolts to hold the case halves. Might be best to use a gasket sealer in combination with the factory gasket. Also, loctite on the insignificant amount of bolts that hold the halves together.

Probably won't hear these observations from the one-tank youtube wonders that rave about the 4910. I'm tired of this saw.
 

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OK, air leak still there on the 4910. It's coming from the CASE HALVES. It only happens when it's hot, but has to be really run hard for the Air leak to occur. In other words, things really need to expand, for the Air leak to occur.

So fkn weird. They did not use many bolts to hold the case halves. Might be best to use a gasket sealer in combination with the factory gasket. Also, loctite on the insignificant amount of bolts that hold the halves together.

Probably won't hear these observations from the one-tank youtube wonders that rave about the 4910. I'm tired of this saw.
I was on the phone with a fella that was having hard start, and bog issues with a 562XP. I told him to try a few things.....he did. Pulled and pulled. No start. Skidder was pulling a load of logs by......and he chunked the 562 under a wheel.
 

FergusonTO35

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Dammit, when am I going to learn? Went to the pawn shop today and they had a super nice 2020 CS-400 with original bar and chain for $125.00. Starts right up, oils great, nothing looks broken. Probably just used to clean up storm damage and then sold. They said they could do it for 115.00 and add it to my MS-261 already in layaway jail so I went ahead and pulled the trigger. :-(
 

mainer_in_ak

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Ferg, congrats, love those cs 400's. For what they are, they're tough. Great filter system, rugged oiler and good torque.

I had 2 of them. One even had an aluminum handle. I had gifted one to my uncle. He had that cs 400 as his main profile page on facebook. He loved the thing. Then he passed away a few months back.

Gifted the other one to my 21 yr old son, as his first chainsaw. That 6 tooth sprocket, they just chug along happily, all torque! They have a "Mini Mac Super-Pro" exauhst tone.

Tuned them at an early winter cutsite back in 2021. right before sending them off. .015 off flywheel key. Gutted muffler, retuned carbs. They pulled hard with that stihl full-chisel 3/8 low profile. Both needed new primer bulbs and spur sprockets. New bars as well:
IMG-20210402-203821-445.jpg

IMG-20210402-203755-880.jpg
 
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FergusonTO35

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Thanks. I have a 2008(?) Kioritz model that has been superb. It was used when I got it and still works perfectly. I buried the bar on the last big tree I cut and it just kept pulling. Only thing I've ever done is better bar and chain, de-cat the muffler, and adjust the carb a bit.
 

pavel408

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Ever needed to remove clutch on CS-501?
1695021448791.png

Echo official tool "Clutch spanner" X640-000370 costs in Europe more than €30 which is an extortion IMO!
1695021286800.jpeg

So I simply bought the cheapest 30 mm nut for €4:
1695021540692.png

Spent some quality time with favorite tool:
1695021605183.png

The result is not so nice due to my lack of patience, but with a ratchet it works very well:
1695022153454.png
 

old 040

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Ever needed to remove clutch on CS-501?
View attachment 390225

Echo official tool "Clutch spanner" X640-000370 costs in Europe more than €30 which is an extortion IMO!
View attachment 390224

So I simply bought the cheapest 30 mm nut for €4:
View attachment 390226

Spent some quality time with favorite tool:
View attachment 390227

The result is not so nice due to my lack of patience, but with a ratchet it works very well:
View attachment 390229
I've done this before when I wanted the job done that day, still have one or two of them that get used on occasion.
 

old 040

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OK, air leak still there on the 4910. It's coming from the CASE HALVES. It only happens when it's hot, but has to be really run hard for the Air leak to occur. In other words, things really need to expand, for the Air leak to occur.

So fkn weird. They did not use many bolts to hold the case halves. Might be best to use a gasket sealer in combination with the factory gasket. Also, loctite on the insignificant amount of bolts that hold the halves together.

Probably won't hear these observations from the one-tank youtube wonders that rave about the 4910. I'm tired of this saw.
This reminds me of a issue back around the '05 time period when we had a Tecumseh powered push mower engine that after it got hot would falter. It took the factory several months before it was suggested to run the engine until it started acting up, then remove the head as quickly as possible (luckily it was a flat head engine) and check the valve seats to see if either was loose in the block, which it was, I don't remember which valve seat after all these years though. The reason the problem was hard to find was, most techs would remove the head to check for problems after it had cooled back down, by then the block cooled enough to hold the valve seat in place again. Only a couple years later Tecumseh went under.
 
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FergusonTO35

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This reminds me of a issue back around the '05 time period when we had a Tecumseh powered push mower engine that after it got hot would falter. It took the factory several months before it was suggested to run the engine until it started acting up, then remove the head as quickly as possible (luckily it was a flat head engine) and check the valve seats to see if either was loose in the block, which it was, I don't remember which valve seat after all these years though. The reason the problem was hard to find was, most techs would remove the head to check for problems after it had cooled back down, by then the block cooled enough to hold the valve seat in place again. Only a couple years later Tecumseh went under.

Thanks so much, will remember that!
 

mainer_in_ak

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Air leak fixed on the cs 4910 last month. One of the case halve screws was loose. Backed them all out and torqued them with an inch-lbs torque wrench.

Went another month of occasional cutting, now the oiler quit working. It seriously reminds me of my ford truck: keep feeding it parts every month, haha!

If anyone wants this silly thing, trade me a cs 6700/670/680/590 powerhead in ANY condition from good-bad.

Apparently all the youtube echo goobers love the 4910.
 

Ford3000

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Geez, that sux. All my Echoes have been solid.
Looks like they are cheapening them up, why else did they bring it out when they already had two 50cc saws that worked well.
 
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