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Defeat limiters on 2511?

Red97

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Should be just regular red caps. Trim the tabs and re install. Make sure to tune with bar and chain installed.
 

Nutball

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Very carefully screw in a small wood or sheet metal screw just var enough to hold on so you can pull it out. The caps must be rotated all the way rich to come out. You might be able to prevent the cap from rotating while screwing in the screw if you can get a pin beside the cap to jam the little tab.
 

Ketchup

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Grind down a pair of hemastats and pull the caps straight out (just a hair back from fully pegged on the limiters). The bare needles suck to use a screw driver on so trim the plastics and put them back.
 

davidwyby

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Got em out

super inconsistent 4 stroke rpm

Spray test indicates intake leak where carb bolts on.

all the bad words. I bought this thing so I wouldn’t have to work on stupid top handles, I don’t even like em just a part of the job some times.
Guess I’m using a rear handle up in a tree again today, fark
 

Ketchup

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Got em out

super inconsistent 4 stroke rpm

Spray test indicates intake leak where carb bolts on.

all the bad words. I bought this thing so I wouldn’t have to work on stupid top handles, I don’t even like em just a part of the job some times.
Guess I’m using a rear handle up in a tree again today, fark

That’s an unusual place for a leak on a 2511t. I would suspect my testing method so close to the intake. Sometimes people don’t tighten the carb screws enough. But if the boot is bad the good news is they’re easy to replace. Everything is easy to replace on that saw.

If you haven’t, I would ditch the spark arrestor.

I have found these little guys hard to tune. If your idle is wrong they won’t tune right. I usually start working the L in and the T out until I find good throttle response and watch the muffler outlet for a rich condition. I tune the H in 10” wood. It seems like what sounds like the right tune on these is not what runs best.
 

mettee

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Got em out

super inconsistent 4 stroke rpm

Spray test indicates intake leak where carb bolts on.

all the bad words. I bought this thing so I wouldn’t have to work on stupid top handles, I don’t even like em just a part of the job some times.
Guess I’m using a rear handle up in a tree again today, fark


Bring that down when you come out, I want to port one.
 

davidwyby

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Reminds me… @Ketchup and @mettee…I have plenty of saws I’ll pay to have worked on if anyone has the time…I prefer running to wrenching. Well, actually, I like building or rebuilding (I will be holing up in the AC and building a couple this summer I hope) but I hate trouble shooting, play around saw not as big a deal, but when I need a work saw to work…
 

davidwyby

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Not to worry, I’m plenty straight, ask my wife.

and y’all don’t fight, you can both come to my gtg
 

Flip

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When I started dickerin' with my 2511 last year, I messed up my limiter caps trying to get them out. They were only 50 cents a piece at my dealer so if you mess them up it's a cheap mistake.

IMG_20220320_160745642.jpg
 

davidwyby

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Ok, crisis averted I think. I went back to square one with the tuning destructions step by step by the book (it’s crazy) with the tach and now it seems to run right. Made a few 8-10” cuts (chatters bad, I guess I need to go 1/4” chain) and then cut up a bunch of trimmings in my alley.
 

Nutball

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Or change the cutter angle: hold the file higher so the top plate hook angle is not as sharp. That reduces the grabbiness reducing jumpiness.
 

davidwyby

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Or change the cutter angle: hold the file higher so the top plate hook angle is not as sharp. That reduces the grabbiness reducing jumpiness.
Thanks, I’ll try it when it gets time to sharpen it
 

mettee

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Ok, crisis averted I think. I went back to square one with the tuning destructions step by step by the book (it’s crazy) with the tach and now it seems to run right. Made a few 8-10” cuts (chatters bad, I guess I need to go 1/4” chain) and then cut up a bunch of trimmings in my alley.

Got the recipe if you need it, you can ask @PA Dan too

32317.jpeg
 
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