Cylinder Reconditioning Advice Needed

[Mastermind]

The slot is a little longer than the emery cloth is wide. I don't allow it to pass the end of the mandrel normally. RPM? All over the place I'm sure. I run it with a foot pedal.

 

[exSW]

And got away with it.

Followed up with a big hunk of scotch brite.

 

[SteveSr]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stihl-026-M...497941?hash=item33c5f4f815:g:tlMAAOSw9GhYaaVT

Thanks for the suggestion. I looked at a few of these on Ebay but none had decent pictures that actually showed the inside of the cylinder such that one could make an informed choice as to whether to buy it.

I did, however, find one auction with a P&C that was from a running saw that had 130# compression but with some "scoring". I bid low and won it for $15 plus shipping. Time will tell if I got a great deal of just threw $20 down the "terlet" (as Archie Bunker would say).

 

[SteveSr]

View attachment 47774

And got away with it.

Followed up with a big hunk of scotch brite.

Now, that would make me nervous! These hones would want to even out the high spots which may be transfer... OR plating!

 

[exSW]

Now, that would make me nervous! These hones would want to even out the high spots which may be transfer... OR plating!

Now that I've done a few I've realized aggressive at first is better. You can get through the plating using to fine a grit for to long before you get rid of the heavy transfer. There shouldn't be any high spots in the plating.

 

[dall]

a flap wheel i can do 5 or 6 cylinders without being wore out a battery drill is what i use because of slower rpm and the torque

 

[SteveSr]

Now that I've done a few I've realized aggressive at first is better. You can get through the plating using to fine a grit for to long before you get rid of the heavy transfer. There shouldn't be any high spots in the plating.

Thanks for the tip. My last disaster I started out less aggressive than I should have considering that cylinder had a LOT of transfer. So which hones do you use and do you do anything to make sure that the stone faces are absolutely flat.

 

[exSW]

Just a cheapo brake cylinder hone from NAPA. I believe it's a Lisle(sp). The stones start flat but take the curvature of the jug. You can reverse the drill to get the sharp trailing edge.

 

[Tugg]

What size dowel do you use? 1/4", 1/2", 3/4"? Do you use any kind of tape to hold the emery on the dowel?

The dowel I use is 5/16" it seems to be about right. It was just a left over piece fom making my son some arrows for his bow. I do not think I would go much smaller but thats what I had on hand. Just roll the emery on itself or wrap it more than once and it holds with pressure from a finger. I bought some emery cloth from home depot or lowes that is the full sheets, it works real well with the dowel. I use the strip or tape emery cloth on a dremel or run it legth wise on the dowel and pinch it. The procedure for sanding transfer is actually in the service manual. Mastermind just had to show us that we could do it. I have yet to ruin a cylinder sanding but I have sanded and found out the cylinder was not worth saving. The dental pick helps alot because you can feel what your working against. A hole or a gouge can feel like transfer to a finger nail.