base delete queations

[Johnmn]

Well I'm gonna start digging into my 2152. I'm gonna see what gains I can get out of this cylinder. I know I should probably just get the 346 p & c but this one is free. My question is when you guys do a base delete do you raise the exhaust and trasfers back up or just leave them be? I don't have a degree wheel but I do have a micrometer. Thanks

 

[Moparmyway]

I would suggest that you print up a wheel showing zero through 360 degrees (or 0-180-0) and glue it to a piece of metal or cardboard (a cd works awesome) so you can degree your cylinder now, with the gasket in place.

Then pull the gasket and degree it again

Let us know your numbers

**Most base gasket deletes dont need the ports to be raised, but they should all have the squish checked**

 

[Wilhelm]

+1 on making sure You have enough squish left.

When I replaced my PS-6400's piston & piston ring I checked where squish would end up without the OEM gasket.
Memory doesn't serve that well for me to say where squish ended to be , but it was less than what I was comfortable with so I reassembled my saw WITH the OEM steel gasket.

 

[smokey7]

I have raised the exhuste and transfers before and does them without raising. I prefer the torque from the lower exhuste then the revs myself so it's up to you.

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

If removing the oem gasket leaves you just shy of a comfortable squish then look around for some type of construction paper or paper from a calendar back to replace the oem gasket with. There are a range of thicknesses that will allow you to find the perfect one to cut to match. A little gasket adhesive on both sides and it'll be good.
A degree wheel isn't needed unless someone wants to know the specific numbers of that cylinder and you're doing them a favor, or you're planning on porting it with a specific set of numbers. If you are only deleting base gasket then you know the exact degree difference based on the measurement of the gasket and measuring for that can be done a few different ways.

 

[beaglebriar]

I did a base gasket delete and opened the lowers on my 353 (same top end as yours). Also widened the intake and exhaust but didn't change any timing. It runs strong for what it is. I'd like to have a well ported 346 cylinder on it eventually but I'm happy with the results so far. It pulls a 3/8 18"b&c very well for a 50cc saw. I'm beginning to prefer it over my 488 for small stuff mainly because I have no love for .325 pitch chain.

 

[Basher]

If you remove/delete the base gasket and then raise the exhaust back up the same amount what gain have you made?

 

[Agr516]

Compression increase

 

[Basher]

You get a compression increase if you leave the exhaust port at stock height but very little more if you raise the exhaust port roof.

 

[jmssaws]

I would suggest that you print up a wheel showing zero through 360 degrees (or 0-180-0) and glue it to a piece of metal or cardboard (a cd works awesome) so you can degree your cylinder now, with the gasket in place.

Then pull the gasket and degree it again

Let us know your numbers

**Most base gasket deletes dont need the ports to be raised, but they should all have the squish checked**

Mr mopar is spot on.

 

[mdavlee]

You gain more compression there on the .010" on squish than 5 degrees of exhaust timing will lose. I've seen 5 lbs of difference for 7 degrees.

 

[Nutball]

Any tips for removing the gasket material from the cylinder? I have scraps of gasket stuck firmly like glue to a Echo 590 cylinder. I'd prefer a chemical method. Usually I use a curved xacto knife to scrape it off, but this one is unusually well stuck on. I might have to shave it off on a lathe, but that's inconvenient to set up.

 

[Al Smith]

Razor blade

 

[Stevetheboatguy]

Any tips for removing the gasket material from the cylinder? I have scraps of gasket stuck firmly like glue to a Echo 590 cylinder. I'd prefer a chemical method. Usually I use a curved xacto knife to scrape it off, but this one is unusually well stuck on. I might have to shave it off on a lathe, but that's inconvenient to set up.

Plenty of options. Carb cleaner, lacquer thinner, aircraft sripper, loctite or 3m gasket remover spray. Just use them outside and don't get them on anything plastic ot painted.

Steven

 

[cuinrearview]

I like a razor blade, thin wire brush, and red scotch brite.

 

[beaglebriar]

Paint stripper will help lift them also. Good ol methylene chloride will cut through damn near anything.

 

[angelo c]

Acetone ? MEK?

 

[Deets066]

Heat gun and razor blade for the stubborn ones

 

[Al Smith]

Being old school I only use a dab of Permatex #2 over the parting lines of the case halves .Regular rubbing alcohol will dissolve it .Paper gasket no sealant for me .
Something like Loctite 5900 you might never get it back apart .

 

[Brush Ape]

In my day a queat was synonymous with a pussyfart or quiffe in some dialects. A Queatione was somebody with fast enough reflexes and with a desire to, who could quiffe one in a bathtub and bite the bubble before it expired on its own. Soap may help but that is an unspoken rule or more of a guideline.