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Aftermarket MS660 Performance

MustangMike

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You did not show us the muffler baffle, is that still stock?
 

MustangMike

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I usually just drill a 1/2 hole in it, much easier, and seems to work well.
 

brshephard

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Perhaps I’m seeing this wrong, but it looks as though your uppers are flared toward the exhaust port.View attachment 119817

I think you're right. I only ground straight up to set my timing though, that flare was done by the chinese.
Do you think a guy should go in there and try to make it point more toward the intake?
How about width on the uppers, would you go wider?
 

Fruecrue

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Directing charge toward the intake is a good thing. Use it to flood the intake side and force out spent gases.
Uppers and lowers look plenty big.
 

brshephard

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What is the everybody’s consensus on widening the lowers? Looks like that’s what you did?

I have been under the impression lately that velocity is pretty important in how a saw can run. Would this widening possibly decrease said velocity?

My half-ass theory is that its okay to have wide lowers so long as you have some restriction in the uppers.
I'd like to hear what other (smarter than me) folks think though.
 

brshephard

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Directing charge toward the intake is a good thing. Use it to flood the intake side and force out spent gases.
Uppers and lowers look plenty big.

I'll give that a try. Hell, a jug is only 30 bucks.
 

Fruecrue

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My half-ass theory is that its okay to have wide lowers so long as you have some restriction in the uppers.
I'd like to hear what other (smarter than me) folks think though.
The fella that won our clone 660 build-off filled his lowers.....
What say you John? @Redfin
 

Chainsaw Jim

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brshephard

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https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/big-porting-questions.179903/page-2


Found some pretty interesting information on transfers in this thread. First I’ve seen it but it backs my theory. Still not proven but the first 2 pages are good.

Nice thread.
I ordered another cylinder. I'll try the same numbers without touching the lowers and see how it goes.

Nice looking grind.

Thanks. I saw a couple guys on here running the blue wheel from Madsens. I ordered one too, I've been pretty happy with it.
 

brshephard

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Is that one of those super tight grain fir that's hard as a rock? Also with fire damage to make it even harder?

Its pretty hard. Its growing on a ridge in a windy spot, about 6k ft elevation too. It was in a fire last summer as well.
I'm starting to make alot of excuses for my slow ass saw haha.
 

Chainsaw Jim

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Its pretty hard. Its growing on a ridge in a windy spot, about 6k ft elevation too. It was in a fire last summer as well.
I'm starting to make alot of excuses for my slow ass saw haha.
I brought it up because it has a variance in hardness that it doesn't get much credit for. The combination of the high altitude, the fire, and it being the butt end, makes for slower cutting no matter what you're cutting with.
 

brshephard

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His woods frozen.
You cant fix a bad transfer. Go get an oem jug and leave the lowers alone. Fill in the lower lip.
Spend your time in the transfer exits and mid port.

Sounds good. Are you talking epoxy in the the bottom of the lower? How high?
I'll try and get some more grinding practice before I graduate to OEM.
 

Lightning Performance

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Just knock off the sharp lip on bottom lower. Fill in the void if you have one. No need to mess with them further in a work saw.
Get used jugs why buy new if your just learning.
 

brshephard

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Just knock off the sharp lip on bottom lower. Fill in the void if you have one. No need to mess with them further in a work saw.
Get used jugs why buy new if your just learning.

OK, I'll be on the lookout for a used OEM
 
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