High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

So what did you buy today

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I'm doing well, so I did a service in Chinese sander, it's free because no one wanted it 😉 Someone was already here because the screws and 4 rubber pins of the vibration plate were missing
 

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Czed

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These were free i have to make a jaw plate for the vise
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I bought one of these suitcase electric pressure washers
To clean saws with
I have a 4400psi gas powered one but it's a pain to setup to run just doing little jobs.
I had really no issues with electric pressure washers before
Just the tall bastards were always falling over
This was 60.00 shipped.
 

Hulpio

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Zama c3-el42 carb and 4 sizes kit of tygon fuel line.
Echo 90014, 3mm x 5mm hose is not easily available in Europe.
 

Czed

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I have been looking for something just like that with a remote hose. Do you have a link?
 

Hulpio

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Has anyone found this Echo 90014 from Europe? Seems to be only US product. Maybe it is Gates.
 

legdelimber

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What shape are the ways in? If you go out sorta near the ends of table travel and snug the clamp screws then crank back to the middle 8 inches or so, does the table get too loose?
The lead screw in good shape? I seen some that would be worn enough to have 80 thou or so of "drift" from center to either end of travel.
Yeah we used that one more like a drill press and did mostly hand layout work on it or cut keyways and stuff that a tape measure was close enough.

Nice to have the vari speed head and not have to flip pulley grooves. Makes finding a speed where a boring bar runs the smoothest a better possibility.

Oh and don't forget the masking tape in the table edges for marking locations. IF the power blinks and the DRO looses your numbers, it can be a pisser.
 
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Ketchup

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What shape are the ways in? If you go out sorta near the ends of table travel and snug the clamp screws then crank back to the middle 8 inches or so, does the table get too loose?
The lead screw in good shape? I seen some that would be worn enough to have 80 thou or so of "drift" from center to either end of travel.
Yeah we used that one more like a drill press and did mostly hand layout work on it or cut keyways and stuff that a tape measure was close enough.

Nice to have the vari speed head and not have to flip pulley grooves. Makes finding a speed where a boring bar runs the smoothest a better possibility.

Oh and don't forget the masking tape in the table edges for marking locations. IF the power blinks and the DRO looses your numbers, it can be a pisser.

It landed today so I’m not sure what I have yet. The table does have wear, but also needs adjustment. I may rip the variable speed pulley system off and build a direct drive with VFD for speed control.

Unfortunately there aren’t that many mills around here for sale. This was a cheap one at $2500. It won’t be the tightest machine. I looked at several in worse shape in the 5-7k range without tooling, feeds or DRO.
 

legdelimber

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Ketchup, I don't know what your background is with the machinery, so forgive me if I'm just blathering stuff that you already know. Maybe it'll help some else sometime?

I might also add to check the worm in the sideways head tilt and loosen the nuts enough to look for soap or water or solvent/cleaner in anything.
Does the central column have a door in it? How about where the whole top swivels on the column?
Reason I mention it is..
I've seen auctions where they came in with a heated pressure washer to clean up machinery.
If it was cleaned up with varisol or kerosene, not quite the same issues, but I'd still check every moving part and clean every sliding surface, then flush everything including the oiler passages with oil.
If the any of previous operators ever used a mist coolant system, that stuff tended to leave a gummy film all under the table and especially on the knee ways and just seemed to capture really fine metal bits.
Gets packed up at ether end of routine travel and makes that issue with the gibs worse.

Oh and my best trick for using a liquid or flood coolant system?
First take the hoses out of the table corners and tie a piece of masons cord through the holes.
It needs to be about three ft or so long.
Now get two pieces of roofing tin and set them up to catch the coolant running down the strings. Surface tension and stuff is your friend/trick here as it tends to keep the coolant running on the strings.
Beats having those hoses always clogged with chips and coolant running over in the floor!
I used to mill tapered bars in an electric motor repair shop (on a universal mill) and this was how I managed the coolant circulation problem.
 

Ryan Browne

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My buddy Cory is looking for a tractor with a loader to clean up his parent's property in Minnesota. I was hoping there might be a sweet older 40+hp Kubota on marketplace for him, so, trying to be helpful I typed Kubota into the search bar. Well, I didn't find and loader tractors under $15k, but this thing jumped right out at me. It's a GF1800 Kubota. 18 horsepower 3 cylinder diesel, and it's 4wd. It's about the smallest front mount mower out there.

We do a fair amount of mowing on the farm and our zero turn is about the only thing I buy gas for anymore. I've always wanted to just be able to fill my mower from the diesel tank. Plus, I'm a sucker for a 3 cylinder Japanese diesel. Got a little over 2000 hours on it, but it runs super smooth. And compared to our Toro zero turn, it's built like a tank. Must have 20 grease zerks on it. The selling point for my business partner (we're also married) was the power bagger. We like using clippings for garden mulch but since our ancient Craftsman rider died we haven't had a good way to collect them. Until now. :)
 
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