Wood splitter problem. Experts in here please!

[Junk Meister]

If You want to ISOLATE the problem Put a Jack against the cylinder and it should hold -not leak back from internal bypass - if you think it is the valve tie the retract port to the extend port with a hydraulic hose or put a plug on both inlet ports of cylinder with, cylinders still full of oil then jack between the platen and wedge.. when the cylinder creeps ... from jack pressure let us know.. this will be the cheapest way to pinpoint or eliminate the cylinder bypassing.

 

[Douglas Ostrander]

I have tested for cylinder bypassing by putting a cap on the return port of the cylinder. Put pressure to the bass end and if the cylinder is bypass the ram will move. If it does not move the seals in the cylinder are good.

 

[bigfrank]

Internal BYPASS try to READ the comments And in case you missed the part about replacing the rod seals --- Once they are disturbed they may not seal the same and start leaking..

I did READ THE COMMENTS, but either MISSED that or it was POSTED after I posted my COMMENT...

 

[bigfrank]

Just for conversation one of my old D4 Cats,1943 2T series has bypassing cylinders .I've never had them apart but assume by the age have leather cup seals .That thing will heat those cylinder so hot you could fry an egg on them. That old it's most likely low pressure 14-1600 PSI .Large cylinders 5-6" .Damned thing is so slow you can change your mind three times before the blade moves .I've seen real good operators on these old things ,used to new equipment really get disgusted trying to grade with them .
.On that two stage pump it could have sucked some dirt,dust whatever into the pump and stuck the pump bypass valve which switches it to high pressure low volume .That valve should be set at around 900-1000 PSI . The relief valve in the main control valve is where the max system pressure is set on most splitters
If you can figure out what brand of pump it is more than likely an internet search will provide some troubleshooting information .You might try "Surplus Center" hydraulics which has some information available .

Got some good info here on places to do research on it. Thanks for this. I will pass it on to the splitter owner.

 

[Junk Meister]

I did READ THE COMMENTS, but either MISSED that or it was POSTED after I posted my COMMENT...

This site has so much Information on it.
My biggest problem is finding it when I need it .
D Ostrander simplified what I was saying.. I like that.

 

[Al Smith]

Chances are if the cylinder isn't bypassing it could be the unloader valve is stuck on the pump .If this pic comes through the unloader should be under what looks like a long nut on the pump . Unscrew the nut and it should be a slotted screw that sets the pressure which is just the spring tension on the valve .Clockwise should increase and visa versa .

 

[Lightning Performance]

I have tested for cylinder bypassing by putting a cap on the return port of the cylinder. Put pressure to the bass end and if the cylinder is bypass the ram will move. If it does not move the seals in the cylinder are good.

Easy as pie.
I said pie....wait for it

 

[bigfrank]

Chances are if the cylinder isn't bypassing it could be the unloader valve is stuck on the pump .If this pic comes through the unloader should be under what looks like a long nut on the pump . Unscrew the nut and it should be a slotted screw that sets the pressure which is just the spring tension on the valve .Clockwise should increase and visa versa .View attachment 208008

We tried that. Didn't fix it.

 

[Al Smith]

I give up.out of ideas .

 

[Bilge Rat]

You need a pressure gauge on it to give you a clue to what is working .
The motor bogging is caused by a weak motor or fluid not flowing properly.
Leaking seals should not bog motor.
Check the motor then the control valve, the overpressure relief valve is usually on the control valve.
You need a pressure gauge to set/check the valves.

 

[bigfrank]

I give up.out of ideas .

Me too...