HELP! Wood splitter jack placement

[ErnieG]

I'm looking for some ideas on a jack stand for my wood splitter.
I had a side mount crank style on it and it gets in the way of the log coming off the wedge .
Also had a drop leg on the underside of the beam and that wasn't sturdy enough.
Id like to have a stand that's sturdy enough when I'm spitting wood and not to have to prop it up on a log while in use .
Anyone have an idea ?
Thanks
Ernie

 

[redneckhillbilly]

maybe weld an automotive scissor jack to the bottom of the tongue, than stuff a round under there and use the jack to level it off, at least than everything is on the underside.

 

[Mad Professor]

How about welding/bolting a hitch ball to the top of a jackstand a putting it under the ball hitch. You won't have to screw with the splitter, but will have to carry the jackstand with the splitter.

 

[Junk Meister]

If you unbolt the hitch, find some square tube to weld a ?piece of 2-1/2" " sq. tube vertically with holes (5/8"maybe 9/16") one on each side (for a 1/2" pin to go through) then a leg would telescope/slide up or down in the 2-1/2" tube with multiple holes in it for height adjustment; (this square tube would be 2"x2" (1/4 " wall) and 30" or 40" long (tall) a foot/plate or trailer swivel wheel on the bottom. Then weld a stub for the hitch to bolt or weld on then and weld the 2-1/2" piece to the tongue that the hitch was welded to. Maybe before you weld it decide if you would like to raise or lower the ball hitch if so weld a piece of 2" or 2-1/2" tube so you could weld that under or over the existing tongue and have an easier position to get a nice weld. Use 2" if you want to raise the hitch, 2-1/2" or 3" piece if you want to lower it. The 2" adjustable leg would be centered behind the wedge so shouldn't interfere with splitting. Raise the 2" leg all the way up and have a hole to put a pin through to keep it up for transport. Just remember the tongue will be heavier .
Easier to explain with a paper and pencil and a barley pop in the conversation.

 

[ErnieG]

maybe weld an automotive scissor jack to the bottom of the tongue, than stuff a round under there and use the jack to level it off, at least than everything is on the underside.

I like the idea but I think it would be a hassle carrying around the jack stand and have to lift the splitter to get it on the stand .
Thanks
Ernie

 

[ErnieG]

If you unbolt the hitch, find some square tube to weld a ?piece of 2-1/2" " sq. tube vertically with holes (5/8"maybe 9/16") one on each side (for a 1/2" pin to go through) then a leg would telescope/slide up or down in the 2-1/2" tube with multiple holes in it for height adjustment; (this square tube would be 2"x2" (1/4 " wall) and 30" or 40" long (tall) a foot/plate or trailer swivel wheel on the bottom. Then weld a stub for the hitch to bolt or weld on then and weld the 2-1/2" piece to the tongue that the hitch was welded to. Maybe before you weld it decide if you would like to raise or lower the ball hitch if so weld a piece of 2" or 2-1/2" tube so you could weld that under or over the existing tongue and have an easier position to get a nice weld. Use 2" if you want to raise the hitch, 2-1/2" or 3" piece if you want to lower it. The 2" adjustable leg would be centered behind the wedge so shouldn't interfere with splitting. Raise the 2" leg all the way up and have a hole to put a pin through to keep it up for transport. Just remember the tongue will be heavier .
Easier to explain with a paper and pencil and a barley pop in the conversation.

I do like the idea of the adjustment leg under the splitter with multiple holes to pin it to the desired height but my ultimate goal is to have a hand crank style so I don't have to manually lift the splitter and try to get the pin in the hole .
Id like a hand crank style jack to be able to just crank it up ...would be a lot easier on my back .

Thanks
Ernie

 

[SawAddictedFarmer]

I like the idea of a hand crank to get it up and then setting it on a jack stand with a ball to hold it while working.

 

[Junk Meister]

I do like the idea of the adjustment leg under the splitter with multiple holes to pin it to the desired height but my ultimate goal is to have a hand crank style so I don't have to manually lift the splitter and try to get the pin in the hole .
Id like a hand crank style jack to be able to just crank it up ...would be a lot easier on my back .

Thanks
Ernie

your crank jack would still do that then pull the pin and toss it out of the way. I understand your concerns. It looks like your splitter is a bit hitch heavy.

 

[ErnieG]

I have been considering swapping around the pusher and wedge .
From what I understand it's more efficient to have the wedge on the cylinder side pushing towards the block .
This would definitely help me out with the jack stand on the tongue .
Doesn't look to complicated to change around ...any thoughts ?

Thanks
Ernie

 

[Junk Meister]

I have been considering swapping around the pusher and wedge .
From what I understand it's more efficient to have the wedge on the cylinder side pushing towards the block .
This would definitely help me out with the jack stand on the tongue .
Doesn't look to complicated to change around ...any thoughts ?

Thanks
Ernie

Tis how mine is and I like the wedge on the cylinder.