6-8. [emoji41]
A few of the Tree Removal companies around here try to do about the same thing -- use a beat up saw with a dull chain to drop an oak tree and buck it up. One company came to my place and asked me to repair two of their saws before they started and sharpen the chain loops. The only saw they had that worked OK was the top-handle saw that the climber used.I loaned three wedges to some guys cutting for hire at my neighbor's yard who seemed to know nothing about saws and trees and they almost destroyed my wedges. Before I saw this thread, I thought to do this very thing and will get more use of them. At $10-$15 each, it dollars up! At least I got some firewood out of those guys. Funny, they were trying to harvest a huge oak with a small, el cheapo saw. They were struggling to buck and I went and got my ported 362 and their eyes popped out. The next day, they showed up with a new Stihl.
You should be able to find them for $5 -$10 each, especially in quantity.At $10-$15 each, it dollars up!
Farrier rasp/file will remove some serious plastic, seen PNW hand fallers use em for re-shaping wedges.
When I first looked at your photo, I thought it was of the smaller '4-in-hand' rasps ('shoe rasp'; about 8" X 7/8" and half round), due to the small image, and because I have seen a lot of guys use those: I should have read the print more closely.View attachment 271659
Farrier rasp/file will remove some serious plastic, seen PNW hand fallers use em for re-shaping wedges.
Or in Minnesota . . . .Put the wedges in the freezer for 15-20 minutes before sanding on them. It keeps them from getting "gooey" and you'll get a smoother finish on them