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Timing Advance s- When \ When Not To Do - Questions

DSS

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The golden rule of tuning is rich and retarded are safe, but no safer than correct tunes. Just safer than too lean and too advanced.
We don't have the advantage of adjustable timing maps, so all you can do is keep advancing the timing until the saw runs worse, then retard it to the least advance that gives maximum power. Then run the saw hot and hard and be certain you are still happy.
Just be aware that you can run into "too advanced" at any or all of starting, transition and full load.
Rich and retarded is a bad combination any way you look at it.
 

sunfish

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Any experience here with timing advance on a 357xp? I read somewhere it helped and again that it didn't?
 

MustangMike

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Then I would definitely try a timing advance. You would not put an aggressive cam in a car w/o advancing the timing, would you?

Once you modify it, your saw is no longer like anyone else's, so likely trial & error is the only way to know.

If your saw has the key built into the flywheel, it is a bit tougher to do, but still doable. My 362 is like that, and I hear many Huskies also.
 

David Young

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I was told as a rule Huskys don't like it. the big thing is it is just optimization, a lot of the advice I have seen on advancing flywheels they go too far.

You can mask too much advance by an overrich mixture, it will delay the flame front. if you need to give a lot more H needle you may have gone too far.

David
 

Hedgerow

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Example #2. @Greenthorn this is for you. As a rule of thumb a little timing advance always helps. Well I find this not to be the case on a 6100 dolmar. I built the 2 in the build thread on AS. I noted I didn't see any gains but both saws were brand new so some run time was required. I took one of them to hedgefest. I just didn't like how it sounded. I can't explain it but @WKEND LUMBERJAK knows what I be talking about. I swiped some of Matts tools and took the 5° advance I had put in it back out. Not only did it sound better it ran better as well. So I guess I'm saying it's a lot of trial and error. Lol.
It was giving the tell tale signs of timing too far advanced at full throttle..
The corn was a poppin'..
Lol. I got a saw that does the same, and it's a tick too advanced.
Do not some saws have a coil that automatically advances as the rpm's go up?
 

MustangMike

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I think all modern saws advance the timing as the RPMS increase. I think most saws withe electronic ignition do it, but I could be wrong.
 

Miller Mod Saws

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It was giving the tell tale signs of timing too far advanced at full throttle..
The corn was a poppin'..
Lol. I got a saw that does the same, and it's a tick too advanced.
Do not some saws have a coil that automatically advances as the rpm's go up?
And hard to keep in the sweet spot. Lol. Everyone likes the sweet spot!
 

Hedgerow

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I think all modern saws advance the timing as the RPMS increase. I think most saws withe electronic ignition do it, but I could be wrong.
Aaahhh, but how much?
Thus, the guess work, and being able to tell when one is beyond usefully advanced.
 

mdavlee

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When they pop in the cut you went too far. Oher than that it's hard to really tell. I advanced a 372 maybe 1/3 of the key way and it was popping. Took it back almost to stock spot and it's fine.
 

Greenthorn

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It was giving the tell tale signs of timing too far advanced at full throttle..
The corn was a poppin'..
Lol. I got a saw that does the same, and it's a tick too advanced.
Do not some saws have a coil that automatically advances as the rpm's go up?

Excellent information there, for the amateurs like me I can't discern myself from, rev limiter, four stroking, or too far timing advance.
 
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